Would you o-ring your block at home with this?

morkable said:
So,, I take it that this unit will not work for the head, only o-ringing the block... toolman, do you happen to remember where you seen that one for the head?

Thanks

Kevin
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In the description at Summit it said "They pilot into the cylinder bore and are easily adjustable for bore diameter and depth of the cut." so it would need something to hold center on the head.

This is a pretty cool little deal, I guess I will just have to buy one.:woohoo:
 
i used a home made one on all my blocks that fits tight into the cylinder bore. The key is to go slow and when you are done check your depth around the cylinder to make sure it is even. I would not do the head because to me it is a waste of money. What happens if you ring your head and then sometime down the road you take it off and it is warped. You would have to mill it down again and spend more money to oring again to get the depth back.
 
I built a tool just about like that for doing 440 blocks in or modified tractor (3super charge 440s)centered in the bore and work great.When I would do heads on the mill I would use a gasket to locate the fire ring area on the head and its way more time consuming.The tool I built expanded in the bore and I would do the oring before boring if need be.To bad we don't have one to loan out to members cause it would save a lot money.The reason I like doing the block is if you mess up a head some how its not a problem One other thing mine used a rachett to turn it so I know it would do #6 in frame.I allways used .032 or .040 ss safty wire
 
Hey now that is a very good idea,,, after working on my truck I could see where that would work just great with a ratchet,,, I wonder if a person could adapt this tool to do that easy

Kevin
 
Isky

The iskys will only do the block, the Bhj will do the head but there rather expensive. With the Bhj however you can get an attachment to do fire rings.. The price however was a little high for the complete set up compared to the isky.. I bought an isky and used it for a short time as the required time to do all 6 cylinders and do them correctly it wasn't worth it to me. We have all our orings cut on a rottler now... If using the isky I highly recomend purchasing a magnetic deck bridge to measure the grooves and make sure they are consistent but you basically have a bore centering system that also rides on the deck. You set cut up feeler guages for whatever depth your gonna cut underneath the pedestals that ride on the deck. Then bring the cutter down to where it touches the block and pull the feeler guages and start cutting. I use a .041 wire. The cutter is .038 wide so it creates a press in fit on the ring to hold them in place. I'd start with cutting .020 first to get the feel for it then measure everything with the bridge and make sure the depth is uniform all around (less than a .001 difference from any 2 places in the groove) finally finish everything with adding .010 to it and you will have a .030 groove with a .041 wire leaving .011 proteusion. Use stainless sprung wire and it can be bought from Bhj in a one pound spool. Finally using a plastic tipped hammer install the rings, at both ends cut them off at an opposing angles like this
----/ /--- and sand the cuts smooth ensuring they but up to each other well. Then using the deck bridge again measure the ring proteusion to be uniform.
If using copper wire set proteusion for .012-.014 if using stainless use .012
 
morkable said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but you dont O Ring the Block,, you Oring the head...... and it looks like the tool has depth settings on it...

Kevin
Click to expand...

The tools do have depth settings but if you don't use even force all the way around the hole it will not cut evenly, so you need a depth guage to make sure things are correct. Even while using my BHJ setup you have to use even force or it will not be evenly cut.

Jeremy
 
Ahhh,, it is sounding more and more like I should just get it done,, LOL,, its sucks that these things are so heavy to ship anywheres

Kevin
 
luke h said:
The iskys will only do the block, the Bhj will do the head but there rather expensive. With the Bhj however you can get an attachment to do fire rings.. The price however was a little high for the complete set up compared to the isky.. I bought an isky and used it for a short time as the required time to do all 6 cylinders and do them correctly it wasn't worth it to me. We have all our orings cut on a rottler now... If using the isky I highly recomend purchasing a magnetic deck bridge to measure the grooves and make sure they are consistent but you basically have a bore centering system that also rides on the deck. You set cut up feeler guages for whatever depth your gonna cut underneath the pedestals that ride on the deck. Then bring the cutter down to where it touches the block and pull the feeler guages and start cutting. I use a .041 wire. The cutter is .038 wide so it creates a press in fit on the ring to hold them in place. I'd start with cutting .020 first to get the feel for it then measure everything with the bridge and make sure the depth is uniform all around (less than a .001 difference from any 2 places in the groove) finally finish everything with adding .010 to it and you will have a .030 groove with a .041 wire leaving .011 proteusion. Use stainless sprung wire and it can be bought from Bhj in a one pound spool. Finally using a plastic tipped hammer install the rings, at both ends cut them off at an opposing angles like this
----/ /--- and sand the cuts smooth ensuring they but up to each other well. Then using the deck bridge again measure the ring proteusion to be uniform.
If using copper wire set proteusion for .012-.014 if using stainless use .012
Click to expand...

BHJ would be the ideal way but yes rather pricy. $2000
 
I am doing it old school! My buddy is buying the tool. Going to o-ring my block at home. Total cost...... FREE! My friend said he has some safety wire. Not sure if it is the right size. I might have to spring for some safety wire. :hehe:
 
Let us know how it goes I remeber findin this tool a few years back then I decided to just take in the head.
 
Update.......

Got one o-ring in and could not be happier. And if you have a real sharp eye you will notice that I have about 7 thou protrusion.
 

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And this is a practice at getting the ss wire to match up. Will do the rest of them when I have pistons in the round holes.....
 

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Way easier than I thought it would be. Maybe 15 minutes a hole. Like mentioned above, I made the 1st cut at .020 and did all 6 holes, then set it to .033 for the final cut. I was advised to have about .008 protrusion for .041 ss safety wire. Nothing to it as far as I am concerned. Guess I will find out when I hit it with some nitrous and 80 or 90 psi of boost before I get feeling to good!!!!
 
Swamp Donkey thanks for the update and pics. it looks really good. :clap: so been looking in to this also sense you started this thread, really interested in how it works out. :pop:
had a few questions and forgive my ignorance, so with the .041 ss wire your using .008 protrusion which is how much of the wire protrudes up out of the face of the head? and does that press against the stock head gasket where the gasket ring is? or are you using a aftermarket gasket that is cut out larger to clear the ring you just insatlled. i've heard of people doing it both ways and its always kinda confused me. also where did you get the wire? and do you shave the end like luke h was saying in his post ---/ /--- ?
thanks :cheer:
 
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