zfaylors old man truck build

Hopefully have the short bed gasser I traded parts for sold. That means better air and tires for my truck. This s464 kind of blows the more I drive it. These worn out e rated ats aren't the best for traction either.

Got battery hold down on. Just need to install driveshaft loops and I can finally hit the track.

Any decent Street tires out there for street and strip other than drag radials?

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I was also looking forward to the dually but not hating on the current setup either. Love it.

Why don't you like the 464? Just not enough air??
 
I was also looking forward to the dually but not hating on the current setup either. Love it.

Why don't you like the 464? Just not enough air??
Its decent air but not for the tradeoff of spool. Iirc an s464 only flows something like 65 lbs/min. Doesnt really spool until 2500+. Glenn at ED said the compressor on an s464 seems to be too small for the turbine.

Probably gonna try a s366. spool would be better and airflow much better.

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Thank you for the compliments sir!

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gonna try one of the new s366sxe's?

Would like to. The price difference on the old cast sx3 version and the new sxe isn't much in the grand scheme. I am looking up the pieces needed to build my own stainless t4 manifold as we speak as well. Just having issues finding the header flanges. I know they are out there as I have found them before. I am avoiding the expensive keating ones.
 
Stainless headers has the flanges- wanting to say that the stainless flange is ~$75
(952) 890-9219
 
Stainless headers has the flanges- wanting to say that the stainless flange is ~$75
(952) 890-9219

You are THE MAN. Found tons of 24v flanges all over the web but not 12v. I will have to order one and get to work.


I know warpage is an issue and more than likely inevitable so I plan to send it to my machine shop to get it true afterwards.


Any input on pipe size? 1.25-1.5" was my plan but I know going too large can be very bad for the bottom end spool.
 
I bolted mine to an old head that I had and didnt have any warpage. I also used 1.5" pipe elbows on 2 that I built and spool isnt an issue. I have some 1.25" elbows that was sent to me accidentally that I may build another one out of just to see if there is a difference in spool up, topend and EGT's.

1.5"
GFqFSwpmBHTZKAhrzasQFXaki8deK8PhURRe4juckTU=w1240-h697-no
 
You are THE MAN. Found tons of 24v flanges all over the web but not 12v. I will have to order one and get to work.


I know warpage is an issue and more than likely inevitable so I plan to send it to my machine shop to get it true afterwards.


Any input on pipe size? 1.25-1.5" was my plan but I know going too large can be very bad for the bottom end spool.


Id use mild flange if i were you. Way less prone to cracking. Especially with the heat cycles itll see.

Great looking build btw. Been watchin
 
I bolted mine to an old head that I had and didnt have any warpage. I also used 1.5" pipe elbows on 2 that I built and spool isnt an issue. I have some 1.25" elbows that was sent to me accidentally that I may build another one out of just to see if there is a difference in spool up, topend and EGT's.

1.5"
GFqFSwpmBHTZKAhrzasQFXaki8deK8PhURRe4juckTU=w1240-h697-no

good to hear. I will price both and decide accordingly.

Id use mild flange if i were you. Way less prone to cracking. Especially with the heat cycles itll see.

Great looking build btw. Been watchin

Thank you sir!

I gave that some thought for sure. Finding mild elbows and tees in butt weld form is actually proving to be difficult. I found then on mcmaster carr but the price is outrageous. They want 3x as much for mild steel as I can buy stainless from another company. If I have some luck finding mild I may go that route.
 
Stainless fittings with a mild flange is just fine. Its how most people build manis. Just be sure to use 309 filler on the stainless to mild joints
 
Stainless fittings with a mild flange is just fine. Its how most people build manis. Just be sure to use 309 filler on the stainless to mild joints

I have a chit pot of 309 rod so that is good to hear. I have contacted columbia river mandrel bending about a two piece flange. They offer it for the 24v trucks and they offer individual flanges for the 12 valve. I got them in the right state of mind I think for what I am needing. Their price is $59 per flange for the 24v in stainless so if that price holds constant a mild steel 12v one shouldn't get out of hand.


I have always done business with them in the past so hopefully we can work something out. Pretty easy company to deal with.
 
Got afc live installed tonight. Its pretty awesome to say the least. Manifold and s366 swap coming very soon. This truck is getting fun.

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Got afc live installed tonight. Its pretty awesome to say the least. Manifold and s366 swap coming very soon. This truck is getting fun.

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Forgive me for being lazy, what's on it now?
 
Forgive me for being lazy, what's on it now?
S464, stock mani, 7x11 injectors, 180 pump, 4ks. Its fun but lazy on the bottom. Real lazy.

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How much did the afc live help everything??

It didn't help at all with the bottom end obviously but the egts and smoke are much more in check. Once it is at full tilt there is a haze and egts were in the 1200 range. Before it was a trail of smoke when I was on it and 1400 range on the egt gauge.

It is a really weird sensation playing with the response knob. I set both knobs to the hottest setting and began turning it down gradually. You can make it a real turd in a hurry if you get too carried away LOL I have videos and a writeup coming for it.
 
Well time for a few small updates.

This is how the truck ended up after the afc live tuning. I need to adjust pre boost more but after the turbo hits it cleans up nicely now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz-a8ABc3Rc

Final resting place for my afc live box

F3ADC6BE-2D52-49E9-AD40-751043F5712F_zpsl3bmoqaf.jpg


Afc live review and install:

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184715



Then I moved on to installing a fuel pressure gauge finally. I just used a cheap summit gauge and some tubing hooked to a tork tek snubber banjo. Found out I only have 20psi of pressure at all times. Truck is parked until I get that taken care of. Probably going to toss a walbro 392 on it with the stocker.

Then I had to address the braking issue. My least favorite thing to do is drum brakes on an old neglected axle. The pads and drums were in great shape but the hardware wasn't and the brakes could only hold 5psi back before I was forced into a burnout.

I upgraded the wheel cylinders to the gm one ton cylinders and put new hardware in. Adjusted the brakes and voila I can hold 15 psi if I want to now without a whole lot of effort. I need to bleed the brakes better but for now I am much happier. And the cylinders plus hardware kit came to a whopping $30 and some change.

Next I am on to tires and wheels as I am in need of tires badly.

Thinking of these tires:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Ventus+ST+RH06&partnum=76VR7RH06

on these wheels:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/17-inch-black-Raceline-991-Assault-wheels-Dodge-Ram-2500-8-Lug-8x6-5-17x9-12-/301690607567?hash=item463e2957cf&vxp=mtr


I do not want a massive rim on this truck. I have found that 17" rims at least have a decent offering of sport tires available for trucks while keeping the cost of the rims to a minimum. I wanted 18s but the price jump is substantial between the rims and tires. I may revisit the 18 inch idea by the time I buy some but for now it is out. Any other sport tire ideas out there? Those hankooks have great reviews and are inexpensive.
 
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