Bersaglieri
Ron Swanson's Brother
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2008
- Messages
- 1,957
I've got a 75x42 shop that I need to finish the floor, insulate, and heat. It is a 20 year old Morton Pole Building with 12' sidewalls. Two 15x12 slide doors, One 12x12 overhead door at the end. I don't work in this shop for a living, so 50-60 degrees inside during winter months would be fine for me in southern Ohio.
Floor: Currently half the floor is conventional 4" concrete, the other half is 57 gravel. The existing concrete is decent but has a few good cracks, no drain, and an uneven gap at the 15x12 door. Seems to be 3 different pours, none is like the other. I am kicking around 3 options.
1. 6" concrete with wire to replace the gravel.
2. 6" concrete with wire, insulation, and tubing. Half the garage floor would be radiant heat. Possibly replace old 4" at later date with same.
3. Bust out the old and replace all with 6" concrete, wire, insulation and tubing.
Should I have concerns with a nonheated floor next to a heated floor inside the same structure? Obviously I'd need insulation between them in order to keep heat in the one pad.
Left of the blue line is 4" concrete. "Steel on this side" is the shared wall and has the furnaces on it.
Insulation: Currently uninsulated except for a shared wall with my house, which I assume is insulated. It has ridge/soffit vents and scissor joists. 4/12 top side, 1/12 bottom side. The 12x12 overhead door is insulated, however the 15x12 sliders are not.
I think my only decent option is closed foam. Everything else would be negatively effected by the steel sweating, except maybe foil lined foam panels. Even then, the condensation would find the cracks.
Would there be a problem with closing up the ridge and soffit vents and foaming it all in? I like this option because it allows me to keep the storage in my loft area and reduces 2 post lift issues.
End cut of the shop.
Heat: We currently have a central boiler [6048] that runs radiant floor heat in our home. The boiler already has a second pump for a second system. The garage also houses both of our aging furnaces/central air at the shared wall.
Although the easiest heat is force air from the electric furnaces, that would be my last choice for such a large space. I am leaning towards floor heat, some sort of boiler forced air option [blower radiators] or a large propane furnace with a boiler radiator inside that could be run either way.
Would I be correct to assume that if I keep an open truss plan radiant heat is the best option since any forced air would just rise to the peak? Is the cost and effort of floor heat overkill for my "hobby" use?
I know that is a lot guys, but all three have to work together so I wanted you to have the full picture from the start. I'm all ears.
Floor: Currently half the floor is conventional 4" concrete, the other half is 57 gravel. The existing concrete is decent but has a few good cracks, no drain, and an uneven gap at the 15x12 door. Seems to be 3 different pours, none is like the other. I am kicking around 3 options.
1. 6" concrete with wire to replace the gravel.
2. 6" concrete with wire, insulation, and tubing. Half the garage floor would be radiant heat. Possibly replace old 4" at later date with same.
3. Bust out the old and replace all with 6" concrete, wire, insulation and tubing.
Should I have concerns with a nonheated floor next to a heated floor inside the same structure? Obviously I'd need insulation between them in order to keep heat in the one pad.
Left of the blue line is 4" concrete. "Steel on this side" is the shared wall and has the furnaces on it.
Insulation: Currently uninsulated except for a shared wall with my house, which I assume is insulated. It has ridge/soffit vents and scissor joists. 4/12 top side, 1/12 bottom side. The 12x12 overhead door is insulated, however the 15x12 sliders are not.
I think my only decent option is closed foam. Everything else would be negatively effected by the steel sweating, except maybe foil lined foam panels. Even then, the condensation would find the cracks.
Would there be a problem with closing up the ridge and soffit vents and foaming it all in? I like this option because it allows me to keep the storage in my loft area and reduces 2 post lift issues.
End cut of the shop.
Heat: We currently have a central boiler [6048] that runs radiant floor heat in our home. The boiler already has a second pump for a second system. The garage also houses both of our aging furnaces/central air at the shared wall.
Although the easiest heat is force air from the electric furnaces, that would be my last choice for such a large space. I am leaning towards floor heat, some sort of boiler forced air option [blower radiators] or a large propane furnace with a boiler radiator inside that could be run either way.
Would I be correct to assume that if I keep an open truss plan radiant heat is the best option since any forced air would just rise to the peak? Is the cost and effort of floor heat overkill for my "hobby" use?
I know that is a lot guys, but all three have to work together so I wanted you to have the full picture from the start. I'm all ears.