Air ride front end kenworth

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Making some room for new engine and trans. Eaton says the 18spd would be .7” longer than my 13. So if it is am I safe to move my hanger bearing back and eat up the .7”. Would leave .8” before the slip joint bottoms out. Think it would work?

Is that .8” with the suspension aired down? If it is you should be fine.

What engine and trans you putting in?

Another thing. I don’t think the front loop of the ag130 spring will fit my shackle. I think it will bind on the top. So what would be the thoughts on cutting the spring that curls around the other spring. It isn’t touching in that whole area. I forgot to take a picture. I can snap one in the morning. But I drew one to kind of show.
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Cutting on the black mark and removing the top piece of the bottom spring. Obviously as little as I have to. But I’m pretty sure it will not fit as there isn’t clearance above.

You should be fine cutting it. It’s a “safety” loop.

Some of the Airliner rear suspensions have the second “spring” and some don’t. It seems to be a more severe service application.

As was said, keep it cool. Cutting wheel on a grinder, light pressure, and trickle water on it.
I had to taper the top of my second spring when I moved it up in the front hanger. It never even got warm to the touch cutting it as described.
 
Is that .8” with the suspension aired down? If it is you should be fine.



What engine and trans you putting in?







You should be fine cutting it. It’s a “safety” loop.



Some of the Airliner rear suspensions have the second “spring” and some don’t. It seems to be a more severe service application.



As was said, keep it cool. Cutting wheel on a grinder, light pressure, and trickle water on it.

I had to taper the top of my second spring when I moved it up in the front hanger. It never even got warm to the touch cutting it as described.



That was aired up. But I have 8 bag and it don’t move much from air up to air down.

14l series 60 and an 18919.


That’s kinda my thought on that loop.
 
That was aired up. But I have 8 bag and it don’t move much from air up to air down.

14l series 60 and an 18919.


That’s kinda my thought on that loop.

Is that a pre egr 14L? Can’t remember the year, (2000 maybe)? I’ve heard those have a lot of potential to make power.
 
Got a little done today on the suspension.

I thought I would have to drill the perch because the measurements were different but because the ag130 spring is thinner the measurement has a different effect and after measuring and test fitting I believe my axle will be 1/8” further ahead than it was before.

So I don’t have to drill the perch or move the bag mounts.

When I cut the top spring bracket the 2 springs came apart at the front. So deciding what to do there because however I squeeze them together it should probably be aloud to move.

Had to get new bushings for the mounts I got off Stengel as the pins that were in them were 1/4” shorter c/c than mine.

Got some bag mount holes drilled in the frame. Also need to make a suspension stop as the one with the suspension won’t work. Thinking of maybe welding a pipe on the bag mount setup.

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Air ride is installed.

Only concern would be back hanger isn’t far enough back causing too much angle on shackles. Please comment on that.

Made clamps for the front of the springs.
First 2 are of air out sitting on stops.

Also I don’t like how the 2 front airbag lines have side pressure because they are mounted in further under the frame. I wish I could find a push in 90 fitting for the top of the bag. Or a 45 even. Stupid push fittings.
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Yes, you have to move the rear hanger.
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Ya I scrolled back up afterwards. That’s what I was afraid of. I think mine are like 2.5” offset. The picture of yours looks to be 1”.

What kind of effect would mine have on the suspension?
 
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What kind of effect would mine have on the suspension?

You’ll end up breaking a spring.

When you say you used the measurements off the other truck, is the distance from the front spring eye to the center of the rear hanger (not the shackle) the same as the other truck?
I can’t see how it can be.
 
You’ll end up breaking a spring.



When you say you used the measurements off the other truck, is the distance from the front spring eye to the center of the rear hanger (not the shackle) the same as the other truck?

I can’t see how it can be.



Yes Center to Center is the same. Only difference is my shackles are 4” c/c and the others were 5”.

That being said I drilled the hanger and mounted it before the majority of stuff.
To compensate for only a 4” shackle I added an inch to how low I hung the hanger. Which probably made that angle worse.

Is there an idea on what kind of angle I should try to have?
 
Yes Center to Center is the same. Only difference is my shackles are 4” c/c and the others were 5”.

That being said I drilled the hanger and mounted it before the majority of stuff.
To compensate for only a 4” shackle I added an inch to how low I hung the hanger. Which probably made that angle worse.

Is there an idea on what kind of angle I should try to have?

Get a magnetic angle finder and slap it on an existing shackle. Keep in mind that with no weight on the front of your truck that shackle is gonna need to be almost straight up and down.

Also, the longer the better on that shackle. It’ll give you more travel without binding.
 
Get a magnetic angle finder and slap it on an existing shackle. Keep in mind that with no weight on the front of your truck that shackle is gonna need to be almost straight up and down.



Also, the longer the better on that shackle. It’ll give you more travel without binding.



Would it not sit at almost the same height because it’s the levelling valves and air bag that’s setting the height? The springs won’t hold any weight themselves. The suspension falls to the stops even with no weight in the engine bay.

I had to use my shackles because they offset the spring in 1/2”. The ones from the wrecked truck were straight.

I’m not sure how much this suspension travels. My stops are 4” above the blocks at ride height. Which is probably close to what I had with old setup.
 
Yes, you have to move the rear hanger.
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You’ll end up breaking a spring.



When you say you used the measurements off the other truck, is the distance from the front spring eye to the center of the rear hanger (not the shackle) the same as the other truck?

I can’t see how it can be.


That’s ride height bags inflated. About 1 1/8” offset on the bar. Dads w900b is 1.75” on a 7” bar. Mine are 4”.

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The truck I posted a pic of didn’t come with the air suspension. They moved the OEM hanger back but kept the short hanger the truck came with so it would be lower. Never could get it to ride good, they eventually used the longer hanger pictured that came off the donor truck and it’s night and day difference. Seems if you deviate any from OEM design things don’t work right. Which is why most aftermarket kits that just add a bag and remove a leaf are usually horrible to drive.
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Ya all my measurements matched the donor. Minus the front pin to rear hanger pin now. It’s 1 3/8” further back than donor truck. Not sure why.

But I can see why leaving a lower hanger on the rear and lower bag pressure would be a bad idea.

I couldn’t get anyone to tell me ride height. I phone 4 different kw dealers 3 times each and got 3 different people including transfers to service, with no number. So I used what the height control valve set the suspension to on donor.
 
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