CAD delete/one piece axle

[bateman]

Surprise surprise me again with dodge problems. I am having to pay a mechanic for the first time in my life. Front axle is destroyed so I took it to a well known guy for a rebuild.

Well, the two piece passenger side shafts are torn to hell. Housing got messed up too where the bearing is towards the CAD system. Solution is one piece Yukon and a block off plate. About half way through this convo I realize the vent hose is in the damn CAD plate. I can’t find any info about drilling for a vent in the diff other than in Yukons instructions. No pics or in depth info really. Seems to be a spot where they put the hole in later models.

Does any one have any tips for me? This is costing me a healthy chunk of money so looking for any advice I can get.

Any worries with my front drivetrain spinning ball the time? I know all the later models work that way, but I’ve heard of the front shaft exploding and all that fun shit. Just curious if I need to upgrade the driveshaft as well. Thanks.

 

[chevota84]

Dunno about the vent. Mines been locked out for years and no driveline issues but I don't really put many miles on. It's really nice having it go into 4x4 when I want and not when it wants.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[bateman]

Dunno about the vent. Mines been locked out for years and no driveline issues but I don't really put many miles on. It's really nice having it go into 4x4 when I want and not when it wants.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Roger that. I never had any problems with my CAD. At 340k miles it still worked perfect. I would prefer it, but it’s not an option with the housing bore being enlarged.

I might go ahead and get the driveshaft rebuilt for safe measure.

 

[4x4dually]

Ahhhh...don't get rid of the CAD! Then you can't put a solenoid on the vacuum line and get the 2WD Low option!

 

[bateman]

Hahaha I read that shit in every thread I searched Jory. I got no business in 2 low. I don’t run fence lines or any thing like that. Fun mod for jeeps though. “Twin sticks” for the transfer case.

Matter of fact I’ve never had my truck in low period. Touchy gas pedal and 4 low sounds like me spending 4 digits with the axle man again.

 

[Tobin]

Do you have the diff completely apart? Drill and tap the housing for a 1/4" NPT and then throw a nipple in there with a hose somewhere high. You could do the same thing on the block off plate you got. Or you could just use the CAD plate and take the fork out.

 

[bateman]

Yea it’s apart and drilled now.

Can’t do it in the cad with the one piece axle because you use a seal at the carrier with that swap. Dont use a seal on the outside of the CAD housing anymore.

 

[bateman]

So $1971 later I have Yukon chromo axles, gears new bearings and seals and no cad. Every was great until I realized an entire quart of gear oil is leaking out the vent hose in a couple hundred miles.

When deleting cad you have to drill a vent in the diff housing because factory vent is in the cad housing and now it uses a seal right at the diff like the driver side.

The hole that was drilled looks like every factory vent I’ve ever seen on a D60. Is not over the ring gear. I just so happened to notice that non CAD 2002 model trucks have the vent on the differential cover. Wtf is going on here?

Had I not noticed the oil and checked the level I would have smoked a brand new axle setup. Makes me sick.

 

[Red_SC]

I put the 35 spline shafts in mine, the little needle bearing in the cad had gone bad. I put on a heavy duty cover, and drilled and tapped that 1/8 NPT. Then I put a long hose on it, and ran it up into my engine compartment. The end is behind my headlight pointing down, I’ve never had any oil com out.

I’ve had it for several years now on my DD, and I’ve had no issues with the front driveshaft always turning. I’d like to put on a logging hub conversion, but it’s way down on the priority list.

 

[bateman]

Thanks for the info. I currently have a cover drilled and tapped and have bent up a baffle for inside to shield from slinging oil. Sounds like I would be fine with no baffle if it’s working for you. I wanted to be sure it worked. I’ll be driving to and on the beach next weekend with the whole fam. Need this turd polished.

 

[bateman]

Pic

 

[bateman]

So I seem to have this problem figured out. After removing the diff cover today I got a look at the inside where the vent hole was drilled. There is a fin that looks to me like it’s made to block the flow of oil. The builder drilled a hole on the aft side of that fin and my guess is oil pools there and viola, steady supply plus pressure and you got a puker. The fin/deflector can be seen above and to the right above the carrier.

I’m going to try my diff cover with a vent hole above the fill with no baffle welded inside. If that doesn’t work, I have some ideas thanks to Red SC sending me some pics and info.

 

[JWhite]

Did you ever get ahold of the shop about this?

 

[bateman]

Did you ever get ahold of the shop about this?

I’m going to give him a call or stop by. He had never done this exact thing before so no hard feelings or anything. Just want him to know in case of future customers with the same job.

 

[Begle1]

What does CAD stand for here? I'm trying and failing to figure it out based on context.

 

[bateman]

Center axle disconnect.

The 94-01 trucks as well as Jeep Wrangler YJ’s had a two piece passenger axle that a vacuum powered fork could actuate. This stops the driveshaft from spinning and allows the spider gears to do the spinning.

 

[bateman]

100 miles and we are looking good. Hardly any oil in the overflow.

 

[Red_SC]

Good deal!

 

[bateman]

Well, that last location did NOT work for venting. It was pushing a lot of oil still.

I believe it was RedSC who texted me some pics of his vent after going through the same deal. Big shout out to you man. I drilled exactly as you said and it has been dry as a bone so far. Clearance is really really tight with the track bar but my driveway was the ultimate test for that and they did not contact each other.

 

[1320Cummins]

That a MOOG track bar?
If so, how many miles on it?
What ya think of it? I havent installed one on a 2nd gen in years, but went through plenty of them years ago when I did the 2nd gen daily driver thing. I always found the chrysler junk track bar to be a good bit more durable in regards to the ball and socket thing.
Found the same to be true of the MOOG 00-02 IFS 2500/3500 lower ball joints. one decent pot hole and they were a knockin!!! garbage!!!