Custom Hydraulics on dump trailer

9 LIVES

9 LIVES

Demolition Expert
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Oct 29, 2006
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I've been considering doing a little custom fab work to one of my dump trailers for my business. This time of year I need to dump sometimes twice a day 7 days a week. I have been using marine batteries but they don't last more then a year. I'm tired of this trailer living on a battery charger every other night when not on use.

Anyone good with hydraulic components? I want to add a gas powered motor with a hydro pump like what's on a log splitter. One valve makes the trailer go up, then there is a neutral and a valve to make the trailer go down.

I've seen a kit but its pricey. With having a honda 5.5 hp motor on the shelf at the shop, all I need is the hydraulic lines and the pump adapter and lines. I just don't know what to get.

http://www.premium-supply.com/Categories/trailer-hydraulic-accessories/Gas-powered-hydraulic-Power-Unit

I've got the motor & the reservoir that is already on the trailer.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/4X30X1-75-PRINCE-3000-PSI-DA-HYD-CYL-9-1172-30.axd

Trailer has two of the cylinders listed above.

Almost forgot to mention with it being so cold out the dump trailer even with a full charge barely wants to move....I guess the cold battery does not have enough CCA to work in the colder temps?
 
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Get a double detent valve. Itll stay locked in till the cylinders are fully extended or fully retracted. Northern tool has pretty good prices on valves/pumps/adapters
 
Do you pull it with the same vehicle all the time? Run a welder lead with a quick connect from the vehicle. This would let it charge all the time it's on the truck. A gas motor would work good, I think you figure 1.3 horse power per gallon a minute hydraulic flow. That would make a 3 to 4 gallon a minute pump the right size. Price everything it's going to surprise you how much it cost.
 
what about adding a second battery in parallel and adding a small solar panel on top the box lid. just another thought. adding the motor and control valve would be easy as well.
 
I think by adding a gas motor you are just asking for a worse headache and time/money spent. Sure, northern tool has decent prices on hydraulic pumps and detent valves....but hell, just update you electrical system.

First, you need two batteries on board the trailer.

Second, it needs a hot wire connecting it to the tow vehicle so it gets charged going down the road. It doesn't have to be large, just use the power pin and #12 wire. As long as your trailer batteries are decently charged when you connect, it won't drain your truck too bad.

Third, you could mount a solar panel somewhere so it gets trickle charged when not on a truck. I have one I use on the tractor and they aren't too expensive.

Fourth, make sure your pump is rated for the load you are putting on it. If you are over working it, it will drain the batteries a lot faster.

Fifth, you can control an electric pump from the cab of your truck. You are going to have to get out to dump every time. That would suck if you are doing it a lot. Just get a control box like they use for bale spikes.

Sixth, you can also put a charger right on the trailer. My hyd dove flatbed has a 120 VAC inlet connector on the tool box. Just park it and plug a cord into it. No need to open the batteries up and mess with a battery charger and clamps and all that crap.

I'd stay electrical. It works in the cold. It is cheaper. It won't run out of gas. It will stay charged if you make a few changes. ;)
 
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4x4dually said:
Second, it needs a hot wire connecting it to the tow vehicle so it gets charged going down the road. It doesn't have to be large, just use the power pin and #12 wire. As long as your trailer batteries are decently charged when you connect, it won't drain your truck too bad.
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This has always concerned me. My thinking is if the batteries are dead, or really low, and you don't catch it, wouldn't it pull like heck on that poor little 12ga wire?

In this sort of thing, I always get kind of stupid and run 2/0 battery cable.

Agreed, piss on gasoline in general. (saying this as I've got another tab open
shopping for natural gas/propane generators for the house.)
 
Just put a current limiter inline with it so it will only pass x amount of amps. Then it will just pass that many amps for a longer period of time instead of all at once.
 
4x4dually said:
Just put a current limiter inline with it so it will only pass x amount of amps. Then it will just pass that many amps for a longer period of time instead of all at once.
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I wonder if rv's have this. Mine has been dead as a doornail several times. Plug it into the truck, electric jacks work no problem and battery is usually charged by the time I get to where I'm headed. That's off purely the 7 pin.
 
TheBigNasty said:
I wonder if rv's have this. Mine has been dead as a doornail several times. Plug it into the truck, electric jacks work no problem and battery is usually charged by the time I get to where I'm headed. That's off purely the 7 pin.
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Probably. Another trick is to use an automotive light bulb. Put it in series with the charge wire. It will only pass the ratted wattage (volts x current) it is designed for. When both batteries are equal in charge....the light goes out. I've never done it...but heard of it. Supposedly it is an old HAM radio trick.
 
Our low boy trailers are operated entirely on honda gas engines and we never have a lick of trouble whatsoever. That being said if you run a wire like these guys are saying to keep up on your batteries the trailer should work like it was designed to eliminating the need for the engine.
 
The bulb would probably allow the best regulation of anything that is absurdly cheap to buy. It would allow a few amps inrush. Then as the bulb gets hot, the resistance goes up and regulates even more. And unless the slave battery is completely dead, the bulb would never be at full brightness. It is only going to allow the wattage of the bulb divided by the difference in battery voltages to pass at best.
 
Going to have to keep an eye on this one. I am sure that it will come in handy for charging the batteries on my GN trailers.
 
gwhammy said:
Do you pull it with the same vehicle all the time? Run a welder lead with a quick connect from the vehicle. This would let it charge all the time it's on the truck. A gas motor would work good, I think you figure 1.3 horse power per gallon a minute hydraulic flow. That would make a 3 to 4 gallon a minute pump the right size. Price everything it's going to surprise you how much it cost.
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Two different trucks pull the trailer. I'm a big believer on the 5.5hp honda GX160 motors. I have them on various landscaping equipment...and have thousands of trouble free hours.
 
So the power to the plug is already there at the truck end correct? (2012 dodge 3500 C&C) So I would just need to run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the #12 pin on the trailers plug?

I'm game for adding a second battery. At least trying this second battery and the charge wire will help big time, and not to mention tons cheaper then the gas route. We usually drive the truck/trailer 100+ miles a day when in use. So the charge wire off the truck should keep the batteries topped off in between dumps. What gauge wire do I need to run to the battery to keep it charging while hooked to the truck. And WILL this drain the truck batteries if I leave it hooked up overnight? The trailer is used for a leaf removal vacuum. This time of the year it stays hooked to my dually 7 days a week from Oct-Jan 1.
 
4x4dually said:
Probably. Another trick is to use an automotive light bulb. Put it in series with the charge wire. It will only pass the ratted wattage (volts x current) it is designed for. When both batteries are equal in charge....the light goes out. I've never done it...but heard of it. Supposedly it is an old HAM radio trick.
Click to expand...

You know... a bulb is just a fancy resistor that is supposed to glow, right?
 
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