F250/Cummins Swap

Welded a Venturi into the down pipe to connect the crank case vent to. Had planned to before I ever built the truck and have put it off. Sure as hell not taking a picture of the nasty ass tig weld. Rest assured it isn't falling out in the highway. Talked with Jason, installation photos show the taper on the tube facing toward and aware from the turbo (flow source) gonna try the opening away from the flow with in my mind is maximum Venturi effect.
 
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Got the fleece bypass out of ford, Tstat replaced and back in. Had to butcher a wrench to get the line tightened back on. I can't get the image to upload, but for some reason, after swapping to the BD exhaust manifold, the heat was melting the nylon braid off of the hose that ran to the thermostat. I added 1/2" to the vertical portion of the bypass hose to get the horizontal section away from the exhaust. I also installed aluminum hose clamps to replace the P-clips that originally attached the hose to the cylinder head. It hose isn't a perfectly straight shot down the cylinder head any more, but I guess I will trade that for not being stranded somewhere. I had to removed the downpipe to have access, to I tig welded a Venturi in to attach the crankcase vent from the oil catch can. The Internet has conflicting information on which way to turn the opening in the pipette. Jason and I agreed that it should open to the direction of flow. We will see.
 
Drove it 100 miles, got back to the house and it's pouring coolant. I expect I rolled and cut the oring on the block adapter. Debating on taking it to work and pulling it down or doing it here at home.

Stupid thing is that I pressure tested it and vacuum tested it before filling. It had to heat cycle before it started leaking.
 
biggy238 said:
Drove it 100 miles, got back to the house and it's pouring coolant. I expect I rolled and cut the oring on the block adapter. Debating on taking it to work and pulling it down or doing it here at home.

Stupid thing is that I pressure tested it and vacuum tested it before filling. It had to heat cycle before it started leaking.
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Fixed that bullshit, tore it down in 1/2hr at lunch. Cut the O-ring at the 12 o'clock position. Lubed the new oring and was able to push the assembly into the back of the block by hand, which I couldn't do last time. I shortened the horizontal hose which shifted it forward toward the thermostat and gave the elbow clearance to avoid the firewall. Pressure tested at 20psi for 15 minutes. Drove it while working on another truck related project and have to leaks. Hopefully I don't have to tangle with that for a while.
 
Red Sleeper said:
So your thermostat was bad in the fleece bypass? How did you tell it had failed before removing it and seeing the damage?
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Last fall It was failing to achieve coolant temp. I removed and replaced the Cummins Tstat (expensive bastard) with no change. Only other way it could do that was if the other Tstat was hung open.
I ran all winter with cardboard over the radiator and it still ran about 130 degrees.
 
The real question is, was this a fluke or did excessive coolant pressure rupture it? The cup plugs in the head have green loctite on them and the block cups are beans or mitusa or whoever the design was licensed to. Mine are pre-production. It's fully possible a high speed pull ruptured it.
 
Venturis welded in. The tig welder and I aren't on speaking terms right now. I think too little amperage was an issue. It's not coming out.
The coolant hose that turned into a wooley worm. I'm not clear on why it was trouble free until I switched to the T4 manifold. Maybe it's just running hotter all the time.
 
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