Flagship 1 is a scam/CM849 guts

biggy238

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Posting in case anyone wants to see.

I had like a 95% chance of repairing this ecm..... Up until I pried it open. ???
I killed 5-6 copper traces with my seal pick.
I went on to identify the parts I thought had failed, and then tried to pull the damaged area up to inspect it. Sure enough, the pick had mashed the traces into the aluminum body. I wrecked it.



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The victim. Notice the holes from the missing screws.

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This is the trace I cut through with the seal pick. I could have fixed the one on top there.
It was the ones on bottom that got me. I probably should have stopped there. The second image is the bottom of the media with the additional circuits I damaged. The media is glued in, so once I pulled it off the aluminum housing, there was no going back. There is only about 3/16" around the perimeter that can be used to pry open the case. Anything further into the case means making contact with the components.
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These images show where the screws are located that fix the ecm jack bodies to the housing. Take out the 8 of them and the frame can be removed. You only have so many degrees you can open the body of the ecm before the stamped aluminum bends will fracture. I heated mine with a heat gun to get the aluminum to release tension at the case bends.
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I'm reasonably certain that this is the IC that caused the initial failure of the FCA. BTS452T AD620 switching IC is tied to the load side circuit along with a flyback diode just and slightly to the right.
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You can't give up that easy, those traces are fixable from the looks of those pics. What I like to do is scrape away a little solder mask with an x-acto knife and get some solder on the bare trace, from there just add a piece of 30ga or whatever seems appropriate given the trace size and cover it with hot glue or epoxy once you verify connection.
 
As zach said the traces are repairable. The best source I have found for info on repairing pcbs is video game restoration guys. There are a ton of youtube videos out there and they do a great job showing how to do these repairs.
 
I killed the flex before I ever put up the post. When I was trying to look at the bottom side of the damaged trace, I put the guitar pick completely through the flex, and then it fractured across about a 3 inch section. I went straight up destructive after that.
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In hindsight, I should have heated the aluminum to get the board/flex adhesive to release.

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Though it sounds way wrong, flathead screwdrivers are the best way to open them up.

I was going to offer you $250 as is for it The other night, but figured you'd laugh me into shame. :(

Mark.
 
Though it sounds way wrong, flathead screwdrivers are the best way to open them up.

I was going to offer you $250 as is for it The other night, but figured you'd laugh me into shame. :(

Mark.
I only had just a bit more than that in it.
Should have been patient and sent it out.
I'm not proud of what I did, but atleast maybe the images will show someone else here what to avoid.



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If we never made mistakes, we'd never learn.
Unless you watch people mess up for you on YouTube, first! :D

Mark.
 
I watched videos guys. Like 12 hours before. Lol

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I've got an ecm that seen a power surge. Would it be an easy repair? Do these have something inside them to protect them from high voltage?
 
Sometimes it blows the 1st diode in the power supply and takes the trace with it.
Sometimes just the diode.
If it's a dead short, or open, chances are the diode got chowed.
Having said that, there's probably 10 things in the power supply that can cause open or dead shorts.

Mark.
 
Sometimes it blows the 1st diode in the power supply and takes the trace with it.

Sometimes just the diode.

If it's a dead short, or open, chances are the diode got chowed.

Having said that, there's probably 10 things in the power supply that can cause open or dead shorts.



Mark.
I am curious what his version of a power surge is.

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I've personally seen lightning strikes kill them into a shorted state.

Some REBUILDERS think a dead short is easy, others won't touch it.

All I know is, as with any CPU, the processor isn't fond of power surges.
The ECM could be "fixed" and work fine...for a while, then something else takes a dump.

This why certain "rebuilders" have a high rate of returns, they don't actually rebuild anything and much of the time it's the end user doing their diagnostics.

A shotgun approach, with a "warranty", hoping the customer is willing to ship hack and forth.

It's why there are few "good" 2004-2009 Cummins ECMs out there for under $600, at the moment.

Mark.
 
I went with FS1. I'm in hopes they aren't problematic.


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I am curious what his version of a power surge is.

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Our power surge was from the alternator. truck was reved up at 2500rpm and the battery power disconnect was flipped to test the battery shutoff. Truck shut off and wouldn't re-start. Diagnosis led that the alternator charge wire on the battery disconnect was hooked up on the wrong side of the disconnect. So when the switch was flipped the alternator power must have spiked and the ecm took the hit.
 
Our power surge was from the alternator. truck was reved up at 2500rpm and the battery power disconnect was flipped to test the battery shutoff. Truck shut off and wouldn't re-start. Diagnosis led that the alternator charge wire on the battery disconnect was hooked up on the wrong side of the disconnect. So when the switch was flipped the alternator power must have spiked and the ecm took the hit.

Sounds like that's exactly what happened, it's called a load dump Load dump - Wikipedia.
ECUs are designed and tested to be protected from those events, at least recently.
 
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