Sticky VGT.

You might be dealing with a stray "soot tab".
Do a youtube search for something along the lines of "6.7 soot tab".
As mentioned above, clean out the back pressure sensor tube. I like to secure the line to something and go at it with the pressure washer and 0* nozzle. They usually clear up in under a minute of water drilling.

The calibration process can be executed with Alfa OBD.
 
run the piss out of it to like 100..let the brake slow ya down to 20 and repeat..3 4 times itll be fine...have ya ever cleaned the air filoter..i know yer not big on filter changes,,,,jus sayin
 
Get the engine hot and mist water into the intake with a garden sprayer and steam the carbon off. ?

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dieselbeef said:
run the piss out of it to like 100..let the brake slow ya down to 20 and repeat..3 4 times itll be fine...have ya ever cleaned the air filoter..i know yer not big on filter changes,,,,jus sayin
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Yes. Air filter cleaned twice to every oil change...or around about that many times. Every oil change at the least. 5000 miles. I'm 99% highway though not in dusty conditions like feeding on dirt roads or anything.

biggy238 said:
Get the engine hot and mist water into the intake with a garden sprayer and steam the carbon off. ?
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Negative on that one, big boy. :hehe:
 
4x4dually said:
Yes. Air filter cleaned twice to every oil change...or around about that many times. Every oil change at the least. 5000 miles. I'm 99% highway though not in dusty conditions like feeding on dirt roads or anything.



Negative on that one, big boy. :hehe:
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So if you clean the air filter every 2500 or 10000 miles...when do you replace it?


Oh, and this stuff here might work...the turbo is in the upper half of the engine...
Sea Foam Spray | GDI Intake Valve and Upper Engine Cleaner

Chris
 
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Signature600 said:
So if you clean the air filter every 2500 or 10000 miles...when do you replace it?
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I haven't yet. Bought it used from Snedge 100K miles ago. :D

I think this is the same one I have. I have the dry filter. I got tired of that oil and stuff. And I had a MAF sensor issue at one time. I changed to dry and never looked back. Like I said, I'm not driving around in dirt and dust as much as I used to.

Magnum FORCE Stage-2 Si Cold Air Intake System w/Pro DRY S Filter Media | aFe POWER
 
Just watched the guys at Dave's Auto center in Utah use walnuts to blast GDI intake valves installed in the engine to clean deposits off with what amounted to a blasting nozzle inside a vacuum hose. In and right back out again....

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God damn just buy this one I got laying here, I'll sell it cheap. I got Jeff to look into a hood stack for a hood less dump truck Thurs for ya. He wrote it down.
 
biggy238 said:
Just watched the guys at Dave's Auto center in Utah use walnuts to blast GDI intake valves installed in the engine to clean deposits off with what amounted to a blasting nozzle inside a vacuum hose. In and right back out again....

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Done similar in aviation. Walnut hull clean turbine blades well
 
Wife's cousin was stationed there as a contractor for GE. Worked on Raptors in Phoenix before that.

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95cummins5.9 said:
God damn just buy this one I got laying here, I'll sell it cheap. I got Jeff to look into a hood stack for a hood less dump truck Thurs for ya. He wrote it down.
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Your hoodless hood stack kit is in. PM a card number and I'll ship it out. :hehe:
 
Only Amazon delivers on Sunday, glad you sourced a quality stack. I was getting worried.
 
Now that the battery drain is gone and the batteries are fully charged, I hauled the 24' stock trailer around this weekend and everything seemed to function as it should. Maybe the low voltage was affecting the actuator. I have a hard time believing this as I drove over an hour at highway speeds and the alternator should have had plenty of time to get the capacity full, but...I'll drive it some more and see if it ever does it again. Oil change reminder came on yesterday coming back from the local stock show. I guess it's time for new oil and an air filter change. :D
 
Good deal. Low voltage makes the newer trucks do weird things.
 
If some dumbass twat wouldn't have made it so you must drain the coolant to take off the actuator to check the slider and make sure it's free......I would do that anyway....but noooooooooo.....let's make it more difficult than it needs to be. Sure be cool if it had a drain port where you could open it and drain just what's in the turbo and in the lines and block above it and once it stops dripping remove and replace. But nooooo......that would make it too easy. These automotive engineers really should burn in hell. :D
 
4x4dually said:
If some dumbass twat wouldn't have made it so you must drain the coolant to take off the actuator to check the slider and make sure it's free......I would do that anyway....but noooooooooo.....let's make it more difficult than it needs to be. Sure be cool if it had a drain port where you could open it and drain just what's in the turbo and in the lines and block above it and once it stops dripping remove and replace. But nooooo......that would make it too easy. These automotive engineers really should burn in hell. :D
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If you sparky types would make it to where electricity can do anything without a thermal infarction we wouldn't need to involve coolant.

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