When to get 6.7l rods?

B

bogl

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Nov 15, 2015
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I'm making plans to get to around 800-900hp and after reading a few threads on rods, I was wondering at what hp/tq I would need to get rods, and what rods you guys recommend. I'm leaning toward the Carillo rods atm because they look proven and seems like quite a few of you guys use them. I'm also the kind of guy that likes to be safe than sorry. If you wouldn't mind giving me a few pointers and recommendations I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
 
So nothing at 1000? Pistons hold up too? Thanks for the response.
 
Teamfreeman04 said:
Plus 1200 hp and plus 1500 on torq
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I wouldn't personally go that high with stock rods but some may have luck with it. Some of it will have to do with turbo choice and tuning as well.

Edit: I guess you pretty much said what I did with less words.
 
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900-1000hp and quick spooling turbos are pushing it


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Look what Adam Aquino, robert Ivey have done. Both around 1k mark Adam single turbo completely stock long block, Ivey with compounds pushed a little over 1k and it finally let go.

If you want a responsive compound air setup to make 800hp, I'd go Carrillo rods. But if you can live with a little lag running a single I would worry a lot less about the bottom end. An sxe 69-small s400 should get you there easily.

Torque is what kills, but it's also what makes a truck awesome to drive on the street.
 
All depends on use as well... Mine is stock lower end I use for pulling a hay trailer, cattle trailer and ect. Obviously I do not race the truck, she puts down right at 990 HP and has for two years...zero issues with the rods and bottom end. I would use that money somewhere else to help you get to the magic number you are trying to get to...ie inner cooler or upgraded nozzles.....just my 2 cents worth.
 
Thanks for the input Cody, I was looking at how far I could push this turbo so I could still pull in stock/2.6 and also wanted to keep my exhaust brake. We'll see what happens I guess. Some guy on taterbuilts fb is running the same turbo I am and he hit 900hp.

Teamfreeman04: You running a 6.7L? What turbo did you go with? Thanks.
 
DieselheaD said:
Look what Adam Aquino, robert Ivey have done. Both around 1k mark Adam single turbo completely stock long block, Ivey with compounds pushed a little over 1k and it finally let go.

If you want a responsive compound air setup to make 800hp, I'd go Carrillo rods. But if you can live with a little lag running a single I would worry a lot less about the bottom end. An sxe 69-small s400 should get you there easily.

Torque is what kills, but it's also what makes a truck awesome to drive on the street.
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I think you mean "stock short block". Probably has studs, and valve springs at a minimum.

At what point are 6.7's pushing chunks of cylinder walls? Looks like Chase was not much higher than 1000hp when his went. I know that's not the question, but I feel like the blocks aren't handling much more than stock rods.

And I agree that torque kills.
 
CorneliusRox said:
I think you mean "stock short block". Probably has studs, and valve springs at a minimum.

At what point are 6.7's pushing chunks of cylinder walls? Looks like Chase was not much higher than 1000hp when his went. I know that's not the question, but I feel like the blocks aren't handling much more than stock rods.

And I agree that torque kills.
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Stock long block meaning the head is stock. we all know it's studded and might have upgraded valve springs.

1000-1200hp is about it as far as the block is going to take reliably, but some guys have pushed higher.
 
Since you guys are talking about cylinder walls, by sleeving cylinders, are you losing much displacement, and what are the negatives (if any) to sleeving it? How much do you sleeve it?

I mention this because if I do decide to build up my bottom end, I might as well get everything done at the same time so if I do decide to go with lots of power, I dont need to take my head off. I plan on fire ringing the head so I'd like to be sure I'm done with my bottom end when I do.

Sorry, derailing my own thread but my mind and my truck have changed a lot since I opened this thread up originally.
 
I'm getting this thread mixed up with the other one I opened up a few months ago, but regardless my next step is more power, and I just want to make sure when I add power, I also add some reliability to that power.
 
you would have to sleeve it smaller to loose displacement, then what you gonna run for pistons?
 
I thought when you sleeve an engine they bore it way over what would be considered "useable" range and then press a sleeve in to get it back to the correct bore?
 
I'd imagine you have to sleeve it down to a 5.9 bore so you could use 5.9 pistons. Otherwise it'd get incredibly expensive with custom pistons, but losing that much displacement, how does that affect hp/tq?
 
When sleeving a block, the sleeves will have the factory bore. You have to bore the block to accept the sleeve. There is no displacement loss. Sleeving a block is to repair a damaged cylinder instead of junking the entire block. As far as I know, and I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, it is not done for strength or performance.
 
I'm not really sure how much would be okay the remove from a 6.7 block knowing you wanted to use 5.9 bore and a thick high strength ductile iron sleeve but at that point your options are clearance stock 5.9 pistons or go aftermarket.

Most common type of sleeving is not for strength but only to salvage a bad block.
 
I would leave the block alone for your power level. But it depends on how you use it. Instead of sleeving it down I would put that money towards d&j precision 1/2" longer rods and matching pistons to help alleviate the rod ratio which I think partially accounts for the 6.7's letting go, along with them making torque at lower rpm. Pricey option though.
 
Marq92 said:
I would leave the block alone for your power level. But it depends on how you use it. Instead of sleeving it down I would put that money towards d&j precision 1/2" longer rods and matching pistons to help alleviate the rod ratio which I think partially accounts for the 6.7's letting go, along with them making torque at lower rpm. Pricey option though.
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How is rod ratio affecting the strength of the cylinder walls?
 
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