what pinion depth tool did ya get?
I've been wanting to get one but haven't been able to find a lot of info on them.
I may be way off here but has anyone tried reverse rotation gears? I'm guessing they are weaker in that configuration but I'm not that familar with them.
How would you put break in miles on a dedicated puller?
And am I reading these right? Some guys are going through a set of gears every 1000 feet or so? How is pulling so much harder on them than drag racing with trans brake launches and better traction?
Also you need to understand pulling trucks with filled blocks and solid suspension do not have the luxury of properly breaking in gears. But if we get a season on 2-3 r&p's at our power level ill take it.
What processes are they missing?
How would you put break in miles on a dedicated puller?
And am I reading these right? Some guys are going through a set of gears every 1000 feet or so? How is pulling so much harder on them than drag racing with trans brake launches and better traction?
What people don't understand is drag racers are not tugging 40k-60k pounds behind them.
Got it setup guys. Thanks for all the input. Used .057 on the pinoin for the depth (old set I took off the total was .078 and when I removed the pinion race in the housing, I had some shims behind it along with putting some between bearing and pinion. Reading the book over and over got way to confusing) Put shims behind race and setup with a tighter rolling torque. Installed carrier and correct shims to get backlash of .001 then added .010 to each side of the carrier so I has to wedge it into the case. Hopes this works this time.
Now don't take this as im attacking you but....this is the problem with building diffs.. and i see professional shops make the same mistakes also...
This is also the biggest reason for failures....
Im going to point out what he said he did and lets see if anyone who claims to know how to build diffs can add whats missing... Again im not doing this to goof on anyone.
He set the pin depth with a .057 shim (which is the 1st step to get correct)
He gave it a tighter rolling torque (im assuming this is pinion preload)
He then set BL to .001 and added another .010 to each side (steps are skipped)
What hasn't been set properly ? What also needs to be done to prevent failure?
What happens to a pulling trucks diff as it nears the end of a run , that happens to a drag cars diff at the beginning of a run... and weight doesn't mean anything.
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Sure they do just like drag cars with filled blocks. Have you even been at the track and watched a drag car that is usually very fast make a few slow passes.
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No, now your comparing apples to oranges. Sounds like you've been around very few high hp diesels, or even truck pulls for that matter.
So according to supershafter pullers are breaking r&p because of setup error, because drag racing is harder yet on them and they dont break?:umno:
We jack up our truck and put a few miles on the rear just at idle once in a while. Was recommend by our driveline guy
SledPuller21 said:No, now your comparing apples to oranges. Sounds like you've been around very few high hp diesels, or even truck pulls for that matter.
What steps am I missing? After setting it up I ran a contact pattern and the drive and coast were centered top to bottom and side to side. Yes the pinion bearing preload was 35 in lbs and the added shiims on the side of the carrier were there so the carrier just didn't fall into the housing since I don't have a spreader.
Jacking it up is good to get the oil to temp, that is helpful.
So you're saying you can't do anything to make a heat cycle on it...
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I still don't get how weight matters that much to gears. I imagine the spinning in the dirt and traction gain/loss hurts more than anything. If you weren't spinning, it wouldn't be any different than just pulling a heavy trailer right?
Or, is the r/p just the weakest link since you guys run fancy axle and drive shafts?
That's what I was trying to ask. Thank you.Ring and pinion is the weak link right now. If anyone thinks the gears get lightly loaded at the line and progressively get heavier in a nice linear fashion as you go down the track then you have obviously never been in a pulling truck. You can literally feel it in the truck as it fights to get traction on a good track. You can even look at the datalogs and see how rpm varies up and down as it comes down the track. Compaction, soil type, tire air pressures, dips in the track, etc all play a role. I think the loading and unloading of the gears makes matters worse. The more backlash you have in your drivetrain, the more it can wind up before slamming together again.