Best stall for drag racing and occasional street use?

MCForstenRacing said:
Are you guys spraying? If yes, how hard are you hitting the spray out of the hole?
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I use nitrous to spool the turbo's while staging but haven't sprayed any going down the track. My nitrous is set up on my brake switch. We have been doing alot of testing with wastegates , once I get my boost to were I want it I am planning on spraying during the pass.
 
VaOutlaw said:
Which drag radials have you done a mid 1.4's with ? What pressure ?

What are your 60's with slicks on ?

My best 60 so far was a 1.57 but I have yet to get off the pad without spinning. Even if I launch at as low as 15 lbs of boost.
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We run M&H Drag Radials, still playing with tire pressure, but around 22psi seems to be a good pressure for us.

Never have run it on slicks, NHRDA SS doesn't allow for slicks and that is the only class we run in.

We launch 20-26psi depending on the track.

Do you run lockers? What do you run for traction aid?
 
VaOutlaw said:
Well I have two new billet convertors coming in today . A 2400 and a 2100 stall. Once I get back my 1900 stall from Suncoast we can do some convertor testing. What convertor have you found best for dyno runs ?
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It makes no difference in stall for dynoing, as the converter is locked and we are in OD to dyno.
 
dvst8r said:
We run M&H Drag Radials, still playing with tire pressure, but around 22psi seems to be a good pressure for us.

Never have run it on slicks, NHRDA SS doesn't allow for slicks and that is the only class we run in.

We launch 20-26psi depending on the track.

Do you run lockers? What do you run for traction aid?
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We run Nitto 555R's at 26 lbs. Never do a burnout before staging.

I only have a rear locker. My truck has been lowered 3 inches , we have removed some springs and installed ladder bars plus Rancho 9000 shocks.

My turbo's like it best if I can launch at 26 lbs of boost but the track we play at doesn't have the best starting line.
 
A huge difference. Without lockup you can't possibly load the motor to its full potential and you are loosing efficiency since you are just relying on fluid coupling.
 
dvst8r said:
Oh and we run a 1900 stall, we have found that a higher stall then this it flashes to the rev limiter shortly after launch. Smarty tuning doesn't allow for enough rpm to get away with a loose converter.
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Wellllll the 2400 stall did not work very well . Did just as you said as soon as I launched it went to 4000 rpms and stayed there through all the gears and the truck surged terrible on the rev limiter . So the next pass I tried to lock the convertor ( for the first time ever ) that helped alot but could never get consistant by having to throw a switch during the pass. The one thing the loose converter did was made spooling on the line very easy..

So we are back to the drawing board.
 
I use a 2600 stall converter, launch at 2600-2650 rpm, 21-22 lbs boost, lock converter at 8 mph. Cut 1.45-1.50 60's at 6900 lbs.

;)
 
Dockboy said:
I use a 2600 stall converter, launch at 2600-2650 rpm, 21-22 lbs boost, lock converter at 8 mph. Cut 1.45-1.50 60's at 6900 lbs.

;)
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I was cutting 1.58 - 1.65 60's on my drag radials even with spinning but after getting off the pad it all went down hill.

What rpm do you run going down the track ?

My converter lock is on a switch. How do you get yours to lock at 8 mph ?
 
VaOutlaw said:
When we dynoed I had it in overdrive but never locked the converter. How big of a difference would that have made ?
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Please post the graph from this.


Your torque converter MUST be locked on the dyno in order to produce numbers to work with tuning.
 
VaOutlaw said:
Wellllll the 2400 stall did not work very well . Did just as you said as soon as I launched it went to 4000 rpms and stayed there through all the gears and the truck surged terrible on the rev limiter . So the next pass I tried to lock the convertor ( for the first time ever ) that helped alot but could never get consistant by having to throw a switch during the pass. The one thing the loose converter did was made spooling on the line very easy..

So we are back to the drawing board.
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We flip the switch as we stage, our 48re won't lock in first gear (most can't), so as soon as we shift to second it locks automatically.
 
dvst8r said:
We flip the switch as we stage, our 48re won't lock in first gear (most can't), so as soon as we shift to second it locks automatically.
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Mine must be able to lock too early , one time I hit the switch soon after I launched it and pulled down the motor too much. So from then on I TRIED to hit the switch after it was pulling hard in 2nd.
 
Data log attached.

Under "value" are the values at staging (red cursor line)

attachment.php
 

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