3cyl Kubota ??

What can I do to crank this little thing up? Im going to be using it in a little pulling tractor and wanted to see if I could get any tips before I tear into it.

Thanks

Does it have a injector pump made into the engine block and is it a inline pump

This is built in.

To turn the pump u on it u need to remove the injector lines and remove the bolts around the plungers on top and pull the assembly out and it should have shims that shim the plunger assembly to the pump case and the more shims u take out the farther down the plungers sit in terms turnin the pump up don't know how many to take out just have to play with it be sure to line ur pump rack back up when reinstallin and that should do what ur wantin to do

not enoughsmoke said:

To turn the pump u on it u need to remove the injector lines and remove the bolts around the plungers on top and pull the assembly out and it should have shims that shim the plunger assembly to the pump case and the more shims u take out the farther down the plungers sit in terms turnin the pump up don't know how many to take out just have to play with it be sure to line ur pump rack back up when reinstallin and that should do what ur wantin to do

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Pulling the shims out of the pump only retards the timing. On the front of these engines there is a max fueling screw that adjusts how far the rack will move. This screw is got a tin cover on it from the factory and painted along with the engine. I have got the timing bumped up on the 3cyl and it won't start cutting out until about 5500rpm. I have both a two cyl and a three cyl and both of the smoke like crazy. I have been trying to get my hands on a direct injection version of the three or maybe four cyl for a cub cadet project that has just sat in the garage. These are stout little bastards and you will see that if you take the bottom end apart. You can google kubota fueling adjustments and it will walk you through it.

Oh man thanks!

Do these things have delivery valves in the pump? Governor to adjust? I couldnt find the pics to do the screw, but I think I could figure it out.

Yeah they have delivery just like big pumps do. They have holders just like a Ppump under the lines. As far as gov you use the high speed adjust that is on the throttle lever. You have two levers on the housing one is the fuel cut and the other is the throttle. It has two screws at the each end of its travel. Low/idle and high speed. The high speed works like this though. You can have the rack adjustment so that its low and won't give you enough fuel to maintain rpm. So no matter how much more you adjust the high speed the engine won't turn any faster until you give it more fuel. These engines are built really stout for what they are two. The mains in them are full ball bearing and the caps are not bolted on like a big engine. They are cast and machined into the block and you slide the crank into the block. The 2cyl I have, I stuck a turbo from a 80's yamaha motorcycle. Stacked a couple of head gaskets. Ported the head and I really mean ported. I could not believe how thick the casting was. Exhaust port was almost twice as big when I was done. The injectors are a solid hole pintle valve type like on IDI 6.9/7.3 in the 80's/90's fords. They just have one hole in the end of them. So I took a torch cleaner drill bit and made it a little bigger. Spun the pump with a 1/2 drill to make sure it still sprayed clean and put it all back together and boy will it pour the smoke even with the turbo. Any other questions fire away or PM me.

Holy crap I cant wait to get started thanks a lot, Ill let you know if I have anymore questions.

I am curious what frame you are going to put it in? I have been wanting to do a cubcadet puller for some time. I am not sure how I am going to do the clutch though.

mitsubishi diesel

I've got a mistubishi diesel just about the same as the kubota. Taking the shims out from under the pump should advance the timing. The fuel screw on my mitsubishi turned out to increase fueling so I pulled it all the way out and threw it away just covered the hole with a piece of metal and silicone. I cut the the DVs with a dremel, and drilled the holders. i also took wire and wired the gov spring inside the pump so it did not work at all. The RPM that engine turns is retarded. I had twin turbos at one time, and now a single turbo. 80 psi boost. I ported and polished my head, and ported the prechambers since mine wad actually IDI. had the injectors drilled and the needles ground. Reused the stock gasket slathered with silicone and stock head bolts. I use a walbro fuel lift pump. the engine is in a 79 bolens lawn tractor with a cub rearend and custom twin disk clutch. Ive had the tractor at muncie can the diesel nationals a few years. I dropped a valve at the diesel nationals in the hotel parking lot a few years ago and haven't had it running since. Really should fix it. It was a blast. Im uploading pics of it to photobucket as we speak. ill post them in a few min.

I may be wrong on the shims, though I am pretty sure adding them advances on the kubota. I will dig up the service manual I have around here so where. When I pulled mine out all it would do is shoot flames out the exhaust. On the kubota you can just take the weights out of the gov and that would get you where you want to be. I am just afraid of pulling a pin out of the piston. I did the same as you in th precup and cut them out two since all NA kubota's except like one model is IDI. I have been trying to get my hands on one out of a later model Bobcat when they went from Duetz to Kubota. The newest T300 is like 92hp and I am betting it would go alot futher.

Hey Serious diesel are you talking about the shims under the pump housing and block or the shims in the pump under the fuel pistons?

http://books.google.com/books?id=wwamacicZjoC&pg=PA64&dq=Kubota+shop+manual#PPA65,M1

Page 65 part 15, this is the shim I am talking about. If you take the shims out from under the entire pump assy it lowers it reducing the piston stroke in the pump. If you add shims in the pump you advance the timing without the loss of stroke. Therefore getting all the fuel this little thing has. This pic is a single cyl but the design is the same. Kubota just added pumping elements to 2,3,4 cyl engines

these are the cousins pulling mowers I painted

I like it. Any chance I can get some info on the clutch?

Wow guys freakin awesome! The frame I am putting this in is a 1973 Homelite T-15 which is a good ol beefy steel frame. Im going to stretch the front a little for the diesel to fit since it has an old cast iron B&S 15hp easy spin 1cyl on it. The engine should bolt up pefect because this is out of a full hydrostat mower with a burned up trans. The T-15 is also hydrostat so the driveshft from the old 15 hp will get bolted to where the old shaft went on the diesel. I expect to have some tranny problems tho!

The shims I'm refering to are between the pump assy and the block. Taking these out should move the plungers closer to the cam which would inject fuel sooner advancing the timing. I see the shims you are talking about and i think your correct in saying more shims would equal more stroke which would advance timing in that engine. Mine is a mitsubishi L3A, so it is obviously a little different.

http://www.zkbrmachine.com/

Clutch was from here. Its a twin aluminum disk cub cadet style. he custom made it to my specs, with a custom length shaft and a custom hub to attach it to the flywheel. he did great work and price was reasonable compared to other cub parts places.

DieselNasty said:

Wow guys freakin awesome! The frame I am putting this in is a 1973 Homelite T-15 which is a good ol beefy steel frame. Im going to stretch the front a little for the diesel to fit since it has an old cast iron B&S 15hp easy spin 1cyl on it. The engine should bolt up pefect because this is out of a full hydrostat mower with a burned up trans. The T-15 is also hydrostat:bang so the driveshft from the old 15 hp will get bolted to where the old shaft went on the diesel. I expect to have some tranny problems tho!

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Put in a cub 3 speed trans with a twin disk clutch. My tractor was originally a hydro and it was amazing how much more power it seemed to have when I installed the manual trans and clutch.