24v p-pump and build

Snedge told me the earlier models can use top hat style valve seals without machining, but still use the standard slip on style. I took my head to a shop expecting to have it machined, but got a call saying it was alteady cut for them. Wish I had a before and after picture for you.
 
Snedge told me the earlier models can use top hat style valve seals without machining, but still use the standard slip on style. I took my head to a shop expecting to have it machined, but got a call saying it was alteady cut for them. Wish I had a before and after picture for you.

Ok, good info. Thx.
 
Yes, Snedge is AWESOME!

Ok, now . . .

I think I am done porting the ports on #1 cylinder. I would like some people with more knowledge to chime in. If this looks good then I will try to imitate it on the other 20 ports. Let me know what you think.

http://youtu.be/03XvAZPRMDg
 
Here's where I'm at so far. Broke my hand, so that has slowed progress.
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I was thinking of moving the PCM and all the wires into the cowling and moving the ECM into the PCM spot. Thoughts?
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Has anyone considered unshrouding the valves opposed to cams with more lift? Would this net better low lift flow? More CFM through the head total?
 
Well, just decided to go with the proven; camshaft it is. Colt big stick.

Can anyone confirm that the oil galley fittings that are on the side of the block right above the cam that the vacuum/pump get their supply from is an M10 x 1.0 straight cut o-ring?
 
Got the pump on. Just waiting on the cam, then I can drop the block back into the truck. Also finished my turbo piping and gasket matched everything.

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Ok, so I tried removing the front fuel feed plug on the pump and that thing is STUCK! My next attempt will be using a impact with a allen in a socket. Anyone have any tricks up there sleave?

Thanks.
 
Impact gun will do wonders, the shock load pops them loose nicely. You can also lightly smack the plug with a hammer, notice I said LIGHTLY
 
Well. That plug was glued in. Bought a brand new hex socket, impact stripped it out. So I TIG welded it in and was able to get it out finally.
 
Well. Now I just broke off the timing pin in the pump. Now what do I do? Can I ignore it, or do I need to pull the govn housing off to get it out?

Got my cam in the mail today also. It's .260 intake and .300 exhaust. Maximum piston protrusion is 0.019".
 
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