Best Everyday P-7100 tweaks on the cheap

hey 12valve, i am oldsmokey94 off of cumminsforum.

would you like to share all of the tips and tricks you have on this site and the other......

just let'r rip!

How thick is the timing cover and how much would you be able to grind it without running into trouble??
 
there are just so so so many different ways that you can get power out of a p7100 pump.
Plates, afc mods, rack travel mods, dv's, gsk's, and many more.
Just ask the questions and you will get an answer by someone in here.
 
i ended up writing this in another post, it should help you all figure it out. they were asking about the front plug from a mack truck.

this mods really only starts to shine after you have done the afc mods. when your truck is idling, the rack is limited by the afc arm. as boost builds the afc arm moves forward and the plate become the rack stop. after you swap out the plate for a deeper plate usally the afc once again become the rack stop[with the plate shoved forward]. this is not true on all trucks but it seems to hold true on 215 pumped trucks that i have played with. now if you take the afc apart and switch the washers around on the diphrame to allow the arm to travel farther forwar, or just grind the big lip off the front washer. with the spring pulled from the afc you can see how much of a differance it make in the rack travel. now on most trucks you will be hitting the front plug now as your rack stop. so this is where this spacer/washer or the mack plug begins to shine. now this is all stuff i have learned and picked up from people over the past few years, i am no pump doctor but i can get them to put out some fuel. and sometimes the afc arm will need to be modded to make sure it is not limiting travel. i just grind about .100 off the front of the arm so it can't hit the front of the afc housing. ok what i just said in the post will destroy and stock clutch or auto with ease, so be carfull. if done correctly you can get over 400 rwhp in a 215 truck without spending a dime. but the washer gsk and a timing bump will be needed
 
I guess my questions were more along the lines of what is what inside these pumps? Is there an exploded view somewhere with parts listed so I know what part we are talking about, this is my first forray into the world of diesel so I know nothing about these fuel pumps.

Thanks,
George
 
Thank you very much, those were lots of help. I also learned a lot from talking to Tony at dunrite converters for about an hour today. very friendly guy who had some good advice on setting up a street driven 12V.

George
 
Awesome Post Smokem:woohoo: :thankyou2:

Ask away-- O.k.,
What would be some suggestive mods to a P-pump for a very streetable 600hp? ? :bigsmile: Say with a common upgraded turbo,exhaust,intake, and a set of semi healthy sticks.....:evil This seems to be very reachable with some tweaking...
 
OK, here is my big P-Pump question:
What benefits would there be (if any) in buying the TST fuel plate instead of grinding my own fuel plate? My thougts are to buy the following:

TST power kit W/#6 fuel plate
TST AFC spring kit
TST governer spring kit (3k)

I'm all for saving money, so if any of this is wasted money, please let me know and suggest an alternative method of achieving my desired power levels of somewhere in the neighborhood of 250-275hp and 650-700ft/lbs.

Thanks,
George
 
i currently have my pump pulled off of my truck right now.
What else could i do to it besides rack plug, plate, and governor arm adjustment to give it more fuel.
I am installing a custom plug (which is the stock plug modded to allow for ultimate rack travel), grinding my #0 plate a little more and adjusting the governor arm.
What else is there to do to it while i have it pulled off that will give me more fuel besides gsk and dv's???
I want this thing to push as much fuel as possible without having to send it off for a cam job and 13mm plungers and barrells.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
OK, so far the information has been great, but I have managed to confuse myself from the abundance of info. My goals, seeing as how I love my milage and don't care to race, would be for an economical truck producing 275hp and maybe 700ft/lbs without killing my milage. I have yet to buy an intake or exhaust, but will be doing so next month (AEM brute force, and undecided on exhaust). Given a good intake and exhaust, what would it take to reach my hp goals without giving up my milage? Sorry for repeating so much, being new to these things and a machinest I like to get my information correct and do it right the first time, the old measure twice cut once mentality you know :)

So, for those not looking to build an ultimate race truck, what would be the best bet to give me 275hp with good flowing intake and exhaust?

Fuel plate?
AFC Kit?
Gov. Springs for more top end?
Rack travel stop?
Timing?
What else?

Someone give me a good answer here and I'll be finished with questions for now. :dead-horse-fast2:

Thanks in advance,
George
 
I used to run an 11 plate(ebay), 215(stock) injectors, 14cm exh housing w/Banks wastegate actuator,4" exh and afe intake. It made about 350hp/900ft-lbs and with 35" tires and 4.10 gears I got great mileage and could tow just about anything with easily manageable egts. If you don't care about racing why bother with more top end? More top end with kill fuel milage faster than anything. For 275hp you may be able to get that or close to it from just sliding your stock plate and afc forward. 15*-16* timing is a good idea. AFC spring kit will help control smoke a little but won't do anything for power or mileage.
 
The more top end was due to the stock engine running out at 98mph and well.....I want to be able to go faster. I had to pass a string of trucks a while back and it took foreever to get past them all at 98mph, even with 20 mile long staights out here in WY sometimes you just need to have more top end :)

Now, about sliding the plate, where do I find information on how and how much to do that? I have good info on setting thhe timing, and I know what parts are in there as far as grinding the AFC lever, does anyone have a picture of where to grind though, or how much? Sorry to be such a pain, I should just dig into it and trial and error, but I don't want my truck torn down for long right now and I'm just a tad nervous about tearing in without knowing exactly what I'm doing.

I guess I'll just dig into it ASAP and if I have trouble you guys will be here to help me get it going again right?

Thanks,
George
 
The hardest part of getting the afc off is the tamper-proof screw. Hammer and a sharp chisel is the best way I have found to do it. Once that is out of the way the rest is easy and you could put it back together or tear it down again in 5-10 mins. After you remove the intake horn, unbolt the 2 fuel shut down solenoid bolts on the afc housing and pry it out of the way and then remove the little bracket that holds the fuel lines together. It will be much easier to squeeze a socket inbetween the lines to get to the bolt down there. Once you get the afc unbolted pull it off and then loosen the 2 screws that hold the plate on and slide it towards the front of the enigine. Then put it together and see how you like it. If you want more you can grind that plate completely flat. But it will get pretty hot. Or leave a little lip at the bottom to control low rpm smoke if you want to. Then open up the allen plug on the top of the afc and adjust the starwheel to adjust your smoke level. Much more than this and you will be turbo shopping.:aiwebs_032:
 
okay guys this is the thread i need. This is my first post here and i joined looking for answeres to the questions i have. I have a 97 12 valve 5 spd. I have 4k GSK, pre boost screw all the way in, afc full forward, starwheel all the way forward, 100plate full forward, 60lb valve springs, titanium keepers and retainers, and a banks housing and brake but that will be replaced with ats twins within about a week, o and a 3 piece manifold. That is my sig, everything i have besides gauges. No come the questions.

1. I am not sure i am getting full potential to my 100plate but nobocy will tell me where my arm needs to hit. My governor arm hits right at the top of the j-hook on my 100plate, is this good or do i need to adjust it?

2. I have the pre boost screw all the way in, medium tension spring in the afc, starwheel full forward, and afc full forward when on the pump. Is this the farthest i can take my afc? If not what else can i do?

3. I installed my 4k springs and took the truck for a ride. Well once it was warm i mashed the pedal and it hit 4k like it was nothing in second gear. Now it seems that i have to push and hold the pedal pretty hard in the same gear to hit those rpm i saw after installation. Do my springs just need some tightening?

4. What else can i do to my pump for more fuel. I dont want a full explenation on everything, just a list i can ask questions about if i want to do it.


Thanks in advance for the replys. I cant seem to get a straight answer anywhere. Most of the time i get one question answered and not the otheres. :bang


Rick
 
does anybody have a picture of the afc lever, i dont know exactly where to grind it.:Cheer: :Cheer: :Cheer:
 
I went too far.

OK, now I messed up somethin:bang I took apart the rear of the pump, ground the plate flat, and reinstalled it as far fowrad as possible and the AFC star is full forward as well (was already there) Now I have a little more power, not a lot though, and normal cruising is unnoticable at all. My issue comes when I romp on it I get TONS of black smoke. I'm talking a cloud bigger than my house:badidea: and I'd like to get that down to a small puff as it was before. I'm thinking I have just wayy too much fuel now and need to adjust the AFC back some, maybe move the fuel plate rearward as well? Whatya think?

Also, when I broke off the 4th bolt (tamper thing) it broke off clean with the lower housing so now I have three bolts holding the AFC housing in place. Will it be OK with three bolts?

I don't have my guages yet, shoulda installed them first I know. I'm just wondering how to best tune this thing, maybe adjust the plate so it has no smoke at full throttle 2500rpm, then adjust the AFC so it gives a small puff off the line??

I'm at the mercy of your help now, where should I start to get rid of the smoke and increase the power as it should be more for the amount of smoke pouring out the rear of the truck. I should have just went a small amount at a time:confused:

Ideas????

Thanks,
George
 
3 screws holding the cover will be fine:doh:
slide the plate and AFC back to a more middle position.
tighten the start wheel back up some to help reduce low boost smoke.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top