Best Everyday P-7100 tweaks on the cheap

3k govener springs will help it from defueling as soon
stock you defuel around 2600 rpm or soonere if your springs are worn.

do the 3k or shim it that will wake it up a bit
slide the fuel plate forward as well or grind it to a zero plate and install it
but remember to much power stock stuff like torque convertor /clutch ect may not like the new found power.
 
what other ways are there to raise fuel pressure on the p-pump beside strecthing the spring or buying a $150 FP regulator.

jake
 
I have a 94 175hp pump I am curious on some pump upgrades I have #5 cam plate and have loosened afc spring. Can I take cam plate completely out without any worry and what about the fuel rack plug and governer spring mod with washers?
 
okay now i have some more questions. Where can i get a stiffer spring for the overflow, or is the only way to stiffen it is to stretch it? What washers are we switching for more power? Where is the wide open throttle screw? And i also remember there being screws on the pump down around the throttle linkages, what are they?

Thanks Rick
 
Ok heres what i did last night......

I had a spare overflow valve so I stretched the spring then I got a spring out of a ball point pin and clipped it to the same length as the strecthed spring. well the results are great Ive got 45psi @ idle and 60psi@ 2000 rpms(free rev) and cant drop it below 35psi.....I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!

Jake
 
not everything i ask of in in the thread. there are mentionings but not much more in some cases. I also cant find my overflow.:bang
 
Here's a pic with the overflow valve/banjo bolt. Sorry it's not a Cummins 6BT, but still a P-pump
 

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do you gain anything messing with the high rpm throttle stop? Where can i get an aftermarket overflow?


Since i put the twins on and changed my fuel filter i now have a sputter at about 2k, it does it bad when it is cold and every once in awhile i hear it when it warmed up. Also when it spuutters it also throws out a puff of white smoke and the other day i had it ideling at 1000 to warm up and it was hazing white. any ideas?
 
timing??? maybe. or the overflow valve or prefilter screen..........

about the high rpm throttle stop, it will NOT give you anymore useable rpms because it will still defuel at the same rpms. You will just be able to rev it higher.
 
maybe i should work o my sig then so everybody knows what i have. I have 4k springs so i dont defuel at all.
 
Somewhere online, I can't find it now, was a drawing showing the diffrent grinds of plates. I was going to use it like a template. I'm also thinking of going with the #10 plate curve? What's the purpose of the lip on the bottom and the curve up higher with the plates? DO they offer more drivability than a straight cut like a #0? Also, at what point do I need to change the rack limit plug (what plate size?)

Now that my tranny is ready for the power I'm ready to get it. I have the boost controller, peaking at 27psi (I read that was max effeciency of stock turbo) and on the stock plate I ground it so the end is square (just the part that sticks out, not flat all the way down)

I know I posted some questions a while back, but my direction has changed slightly on this truck and so I'm back to asking a few more.

thanks,
George
 
So by not having the upper lip as on the #10 it will pull hard all the way to max RPM'S (by not defueling sooner) and having it will ease you into the governer? Am I thinking correctly on this or am I still not getting it? I notice that now the truck will get to about 2500RPM and ease slowly up to 2800rpm and go no further in drive, of course I'd not go that fast in OD ;) Is this due to the upper lip on the plate? I'm trying to learn these thigns and so far I have a pretty decent understanding of the basic operation of this pump, but how it relates to engine operation is taking me a little longer.

Man, what a world of diffrence from big blocks with carbs, I can tune those things in my sleep.

George
 
WOW!!!! I just got back from taking my truck for a spin. I ground it to a #100 and slid it foward, almost all the way. My test run is a slightly uphill grade onramp to the interstate. I time 0-70mph and stock it was 27.4 Then with a trans upgrade it dropped to 24.2 and now it is running it in 17.4seconds. That's an entire 10 seconds off 0-70mph without spending any money on engine, only transmission. Now with my boost control that I'm going to install tomorrow and raise the boost a little. Things are going to get interesting :)

George
 
So there is no need to grind the AFC arm if I'm running a 100 plate?
 
Thats what I was thinking due to the fact the 100 and the 0 have the same profile at the top and as you stated it would depend where the arm hit. So if the Gov arm hit higher then you would want to grind the AFC arm flat correct?
 
Rack plug is on the list for tomorrows purchaces. If I'm correct there would be more reason to grind the AFC arm after installing the rack plug.
 
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