Best Everyday P-7100 tweaks on the cheap

Smokem said:
If you grind the AFC lever flat, the plate will be the limiting factor when installing the 2095 rack plug. They all tie together, but if you experiment with the parts and take the time to understand what happens and at what boost pressure, it will all become much more clear. I basically weld, grind, and remove bolts to achieve what I want, but it essence it is a little more technical and refined than that.
Click to expand...
And thats why I'm here listening and learning.
 
After the rack plug install and the AFC arm was ground flat the plate becomes the limiting factor. What would happen if a plate was cut deeper then a 0 ? Is it possible to over travel the rack and have it hang up?
 
when i had my pump off of the truck, i discovered some things.
I made a custom rack plug out of my stock one. I just added 1/2 onto the end of it by drilling it out and adding some small pipe and a cover. THe rack does NOT hit the plug at WOT. I gutted the afc in order to get full rack travel.
What is discovered was, with my custom plug, gutted afc and #0 plate full foreward, the rack is full foreward at about half throttle even before the governor arm hits the plate.
SO, If you gut the afc or highly modify it with a rack plug that has sufficient room for full rack travel, then you are getting FULL RACK TRAVEL at about half throttle.
 
the rack is at FULL FUEL even before the governor arm hits the plate (which is at about half throttle for my truck.
I have been running it like this for about 4 months with NO problems.
The rack does not hit the end of the plug at WOT with the plug i made.

No problems yet. Cept for peggin the pyro in third gear at about 3800-3900 rpms with 18* timing.
 
i have more than enough fuel for now. I just need a turbo now. and a clutch.
I was thinkin HTB2/64 and a SouthBend ConFE
 
While trying not to hyjack this thread I'd like to hear more about what you said by not wasting you time with a 64mm comp if the turbine isn't 71mm.
 
hey guys telling everyone to grind there plate to a zero isn't the best way yes you get alot of fuel and power but the slope on the #5,6 ect. is how you get your fuel curve such as on the 03 up the computer atomizes the fuel by spitting in allitlle at first then more once it boosts and start firing more. Well on are truck the slope on the plate along with the afc foot which some remove; helps do the same thing. You first when you step down the governor arm hits the afc foot and cuts back you fuel amount till boost is read so the farther foward the star wheel the more fuel and heat before boost and you get moving. Then after boost is read and turbo spining the afc foot moves out of the way and now the governor foot hit the tip of the fuel plate which you set the foot to just touch the front of the slope on the plate which will hang for a split second which also allows the truck to catch up on the fuel before more is let in, then the governor foot slides up the slope on the plate till it hit full foward on the plate, which then you get all the fuel and not so much smoke and heat right at first. Plus my #5 once the governor foot is hitting the farthest point on my plate it is allowing the same amount of fuel as a zero but better management of the fuel up till that point. my truck made 308hp and 845ftlbs on dyno with just the plate and a afe stage 1 and 4inch MBRP exhaust in OD, with how i had my plate and afc and starwheell set which was plate 1/16 from full foward star wheel 80 clicks from full foward and afc slide all the way forward with this setup I ran 15.9's I added a bullydog tc locker and I ran 15.4's then with my HTS tranny and my 4GSK's and now star wheel 75 clicks from foward I ran 15.20. I GSK did little in the time of my 1/4 mile till now it does because I now have stick and dv to push me to a higher mph in the 1/4 which is where the GSK's a really noticed for me my truck would only hit 90 pushed to the max on the highway with the GSK's I can now run in the 100's highest I have taken it is 118 but that is fast on the street to fast acutally sorry so long just thought I'd share that for you all.
 
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One thing I have found out recently is the mack plug isn't always needed. on my 215 (887) pump with 370's it likes a little more plate, about 3/4 forward on a #6 TST for max power, now add a real set of injectors like my EDM's and it makes a good power addition but smokes allot at WOT and set like this took me to 640 hp uncorrected, after that I took about 1mm of plate out, or just a tiny bit forward from the middle and it likes this better. Acts better, smokes less(useless smoke) from there I did another little mod and added 5 psi of boost but it's un-proven on the dyno.

I don't know if the next dyno event will be with the 66 or a Silver Bullet upgrade, we'll see.

Jim
 
I'm going to stop giving information out since every time I do some one contradict what I say and I'm just passing on what I'v been shown and told.
 
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No, you need to give information where you see fit. The more people give input the more I and others learn. From what both you and Smokem have said alot will learn.
 
Well I'm trying to setup my 887 to have the AFC arm out of the way by 30psi. I'm looking at TST's AFC springs.
 
I flipped the washers and in order to have the arm reach it's limit in the AFC housing I have to run the stock spring very loose. Not a very linear movement due to the stiffness of the stock spring at the end of movement.
 
I misses your question, sorry I'm on the road!

The 370's are bone stock, as a matter of fact I sent them to I.I. for an op check and 4 of them were bad or unsalvageable and needed new tips.

On the plate deal, I like a #6 for it's fat nose making a soft bottom end.

Jim
 
Where would you set timing on a 95, 175 pump truck. I have a 100 plate, 4kgsk, 2095 plug, o-ringed head, marine gasket, stock head bolts. Thanks
 
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