One thing led to another. Build thread.

jlibert said:
This does not include the C2 half of the engine harness, passenger side battery wiring, grid heater wiring, door wiring, or cab wiring. I'm guessing there is somewhere around 50 pounds of wiring in a regular cab.

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This was one of three piles of tape and loom that was discarded.

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This is only a fraction of the wiring that was removed from the harnesses.

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My fingers are a little raw but the wiring harness looks much cleaner now. I'm waiting on some more wire wrap to show up so I can finish it up. The new and improved bumper to bumper harness weighs 7 lbs. Best of all, I have a much better understanding of my truck's electrical system now. Big thanks to Chase L. and Erick for some help when I got hung up.
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Wow, now we know why the OEM's are simplifying the harnesses and running data busses and such to reduce weight.

That is a huge reduction in weight from just simplifying the harness!!! Good work!!!
 
Driver door installed
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Cory did nice job getting the abs module out of the way.

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I'm going to give cory a hand with the other door tomorrow and get rid of the power steering fluid cooler.
 
Looks amazing!! Great attention to detail.

Does your new lightened wire harness retain the light wiring? Debating if I want to keep functional lights on mine or not.
 
Here are a few boring details about the door install...
Cory and I took a trip to the dismantler to swap out the power door latch assemblies for non-power latches. It took about an hour, and it saved about 3/4 of a pound for the pair. Maybe not our best use of time, but every little bit counts I guess. No pics of the latches, but there isn't much of a difference between the two.

Stock door hinges.

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Chromoly lift-off hinges

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Stiffener for door hinge mounts

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Power steering cooler mia

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SmokeShow said:
Goal weight?

It's wild seeing all the weights.
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I don't have a set goal weight for the truck. I'm trying to get it as light as I can without killing the outer appearance. I don't really know any numbers on light 3rd gens to be able to go off of.
 
I'd be surprised if yours is not one of the lightest!!! You have done so much to remove unnecessary weight from the truck!!!

So curious to see what the total reduction is!
 
Hey JP, where's your titanium torque converter? LOL

Good job on the weight savings. Front and rear axles have a ton, but I don't know any way of saving weight cheaply without sacrificing durability. Maybe shop for some used mud racing parts?

All I know, is this level of commitment usually ends well. Keep it coming!
 
Chris Tobin said:
I'd be surprised if yours is not one of the lightest!!! You have done so much to remove unnecessary weight from the truck!!!

So curious to see what the total reduction is!
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All I know is that light isn't cheap. Not when it comes to a dodge diesel anyway.

Howling said:
I wonder what Brian Parkers truck weighs in at?
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I looked that truck over pretty good, and i'd have to guess that when gabby had it, 4800-5000.
JQmile said:
Hey JP, where's your titanium torque converter? LOL

Good job on the weight savings. Front and rear axles have a ton, but I don't know any way of saving weight cheaply without sacrificing durability. Maybe shop for some used mud racing parts?

All I know, is this level of commitment usually ends well. Keep it coming!
Click to expand...

Thanks man. I wish i had an extra 10k laying around for axles. I'm going to way the front 9.25 and rear 11.5 pretty soon. It's killing me not to know exactly how heavy they are.
 
jlibert said:
All I know is that light isn't cheap. Not when it comes to a dodge diesel anyway.



I looked that truck over pretty good, and i'd have to guess that when gabby had it, 4800-5000.


Thanks man. I wish i had an extra 10k laying around for axles. I'm going to way the front 9.25 and rear 11.5 pretty soon. It's killing me not to know exactly how heavy they are.
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Not much is cheap about performance diesel trucks... unfortunately!!!

You probably don't want to know how much they weigh. I suppose you could retube them with Chromoly axle tubes of the same diameter and slightly less thickness to reduce a little weight, but I don't think I'd suggest that one. If anything you'll probably need to add weight in trusses and stiffners and fully welding to handle the power.
 
jlibert said:
All I know is that light isn't cheap. Not when it comes to a dodge diesel anyway.



I looked that truck over pretty good, and i'd have to guess that when gabby had it, 4800-5000.


Thanks man. I wish i had an extra 10k laying around for axles. I'm going to way the front 9.25 and rear 11.5 pretty soon. It's killing me not to know exactly how heavy they are.
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Weigh, not way. :doh::doh:

Chris Tobin said:
Not much is cheap about performance diesel trucks... unfortunately!!!

You probably don't want to know how much they weigh. I suppose you could retube them with Chromoly axle tubes of the same diameter and slightly less thickness to reduce a little weight, but I don't think I'd suggest that one. If anything you'll probably need to add weight in trusses and stiffners and fully welding to handle the power.
Click to expand...

I'm not going to be making anywhere near the power alot of guys are making. Probably not a bad idea to weld the tubes anyway.
 
Awesome thread JP. i just found this, I don't know how I missed it from the start but I will be following it till you get finished and to the track. I have a reg cab 4x4 that I bought to do the same thing with. I keep going back a forth thinking I want to do a 2wd to save weight but then I see how Seth and Micha are running and I lean back towards the 4x4 . I will be curious to see how lite you can get this truck that is the only way we will be able to compete with the 2wds . Keep it up it looks like a great build !:clap:
 
jlibert said:
Weigh, not way. :doh::doh:



I'm not going to be making anywhere near the power alot of guys are making. Probably not a bad idea to weld the tubes anyway.
Click to expand...

I'd definitely recommend welding the tubes at a minimum for additional strength and to prevent the housing from twisting on the tubes. Stitch weld small sections at a time moving from side to side and around the tube until they are completely welded to help prevent any deflection from heating and cooling the housing and tubes. You can also do it with the components removed and a jig...

We did my rear AAM11.5 at RPM Offroad and we retubed it with 4-inch tube the whole way to replace the 4-inch that necks down to 3.5-inch on many GM AAMs. We also used 1/2-inch wall tubing and machined it for a 2 or 3-thousandths interference fit AND fully welded it in addition to installing a truss from Artec Industries. It is now a very strong read axle, but I am sure weighs much more than it did stock as it is also 3-inches wider on each side to match the track width of the front end with the long travel IFS system installed. They had the jig installed the entire time and welded side to side and such and still got a little deflection when we released the jig. Probably less than a degree...
 
Toolman said:
Awesome thread JP. i just found this, I don't know how I missed it from the start but I will be following it till you get finished and to the track. I have a reg cab 4x4 that I bought to do the same thing with. I keep going back a forth thinking I want to do a 2wd to save weight but then I see how Seth and Micha are running and I lean back towards the 4x4 . I will be curious to see how lite you can get this truck that is the only way we will be able to compete with the 2wds . Keep it up it looks like a great build !:clap:
Click to expand...


Thanks! Any idea what seth or micha's trucks weigh?
If i was going to try to compete in pro street, i'd have to go 2wd. Even if you were able to get to 4500 lbs, you still have aerodynamics and drivetrain losses stacked against you. For grudge racing, the 4x4 will be fun.


Chris Tobin said:
I'd definitely recommend welding the tubes at a minimum for additional strength and to prevent the housing from twisting on the tubes. Stitch weld small sections at a time moving from side to side and around the tube until they are completely welded to help prevent any deflection from heating and cooling the housing and tubes. You can also do it with the components removed and a jig...

We did my rear AAM11.5 at RPM Offroad and we retubed it with 4-inch tube the whole way to replace the 4-inch that necks down to 3.5-inch on many GM AAMs. We also used 1/2-inch wall tubing and machined it for a 2 or 3-thousandths interference fit AND fully welded it in addition to installing a truss from Artec Industries. It is now a very strong read axle, but I am sure weighs much more than it did stock as it is also 3-inches wider on each side to match the track width of the front end with the long travel IFS system installed. They had the jig installed the entire time and welded side to side and such and still got a little deflection when we released the jig. Probably less than a degree...
Click to expand...

1/2" wall tubing? Wow!

I'll stick with the stitch welds for now. Thanks.
 
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