turning the barrels?

I have had a heavy spring in mine for a long time, Ive tried gov springs and even small engine valve springs and AFC possition on the dyno nothing changed HP if anything the numbers went down a tad. The heavy Bosch spring works best for me.
 
The heavy bosch spring I think your talking about is what is usually in a 215 pump....what I call a 30 lb spring, the gov spring I use it the same wire size just a little longer....I call it a 40 lbs spring.

Jim
 
The heavy bosch spring I think your talking about is what is usually in a 215 pump....what I call a 30 lb spring, the gov spring I use it the same wire size just a little longer....I call it a 40 lbs spring.

Jim

Jim, do You have Bosch part number for 30lbs spring?
 
quick question, do i have to pull the DVs to turn the barrels or can i use the DV socket to turn it when i loosen the holders?

Garrett
 
I would think you should just have to loosen the lines and the nuts on the studs and turn them, just mark them before you move them so you can put them back. I havn't got to do mine yet.
 
maybe someone could shed some light on this for me.. if you turn your barrells and get them somewhat off from one another, technically the difference in posistion of the barrels in relation to the plungers would cause a timing change due to the spill port being in a different position in relation to the helix right? so if thats the cause you should be able to spill time each barrel by twisting it till its spot on as long as you have one barrel timed correctly, like #1... i think im going somewhere on this..


now part two... has anyone actually witnessed some sort of non shutoff or runaway due to turning the barrels too far or is this just something thats theoreticly possible. what im trying to get at is is this really as big a problem as everyone says it is? kinda like running with no plate... everyone talks it up like its gonna break something but in reality it causes no harm to anything?
 
maybe someone could shed some light on this for me.. if you turn your barrells and get them somewhat off from one another, technically the difference in posistion of the barrels in relation to the plungers would cause a timing change due to the spill port being in a different position in relation to the helix right? so if thats the cause you should be able to spill time each barrel by twisting it till its spot on as long as you have one barrel timed correctly, like #1... i think im going somewhere on this..


now part two... has anyone actually witnessed some sort of non shutoff or runaway due to turning the barrels too far or is this just something thats theoreticly possible. what im trying to get at is is this really as big a problem as everyone says it is? kinda like running with no plate... everyone talks it up like its gonna break something but in reality it causes no harm to anything?

I had a friend turn the barrells and he had a shim fall out and had it runaway on him
 
maybe someone could shed some light on this for me.. if you turn your barrells and get them somewhat off from one another, technically the difference in posistion of the barrels in relation to the plungers would cause a timing change due to the spill port being in a different position in relation to the helix right? so if thats the cause you should be able to spill time each barrel by twisting it till its spot on as long as you have one barrel timed correctly, like #1... i think im going somewhere on this..


now part two... has anyone actually witnessed some sort of non shutoff or runaway due to turning the barrels too far or is this just something thats theoreticly possible. what im trying to get at is is this really as big a problem as everyone says it is? kinda like running with no plate... everyone talks it up like its gonna break something but in reality it causes no harm to anything?


If you turn the barrels and use full rack you are completely off the bottom helix. So your theory isn't gonna work.

Racking the barrels is not going to cause a run-away of any sort. If you lose a shim then the barrel will sit crooked, you will hang a b&p then it will stick the rack at whatever position the b&p was at when it froze up. You WILL however throw your lower idle completely off. You will have to back the low idle down because what used to be low idle will now pump 40-60 cc's which will make for quite a high idle

For those of you who want a pump set for max fuel the CORRECT way, PM me on here and I'll get you a quote.

If I could could Tim to call at work we'd be a Sponsor on here and then I could post the info for everyone.
 
Put a 4k GSK from Peak Diesel today and the idle is firm as it was stock.

I am really enjoying my wifes truck. Raced a friend with a 180 motor, 370's, and long bed, otherwise same setup as mine, and I walked him everytime...

One thing I did notice though was that when I went to go get my timing bumped, the timing was already at 20* on this factory recon motor..... Not sure how that happened. Was it from turning the barrels, or was it that high from factory?

Merrick
 
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