2015 ppl 2.6 rules

ParkerFly said:
Look at is as long pry bar vs. short pry bar. Or a see saw where the pivot isn't centered. You better put the fat kid on the short end or the long side will always win.
When I used to pull antique tractors we experimented with a long drawbar on some tracks that were bad and I couldn't get enough weight on the rear. It made a dramatic difference, especially when you started getting it several inches back. We had keep it a minimum of 18" from the center of the rear axle. If I moved it back to 24", it took quite a bit more weight on the nose.
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Exactly, and with excess HP on the table and light sleds off the line, more frontend lift equals more weight on rear duals to get bite and ground speed faster, EVERY truck/chassis is different and track conditions matter too.
 
Several pages back, I made the comment the best thing we could do is lower the weight. I agree that 200 lbs. is not enough, I think it should be 7,600. 24 inch hitch with that being said, I believe Matt Yellow Jacket is right. If I pull with my old Reese hitch which is mounted higher and farther back, it seems like I break every time. If I use the draw bar hitch that is not mounted as high, I definitely have less traction and don't break but I obviously don't pull as far either. Also, lowering the weight will even the trucks out, I think the best truck will still win but not by as far. As far as big rear ends, it doesn't matter to me actually they are probably several pounds heavier which could be a disadvantage. I think there is no reason that these trucks should weigh 8,000 lbs. lighten them up and keep the wheels spinning. Remember these rules were made when we used to have full interior trucks and everything under the hood. I can say that Southwest WI Pullers next year will probably be lighter and less hitch. The rear end I am not sure.
 
I agree, 500 lbs is enough to make a difference, 200 lbs, not enough... Any of the trucks can give up 500 lbs pretty easily... That and 2 less inches of hitch height will save some parts.
 
ParkerFly said:
Look at is as long pry bar vs. short pry bar. Or a see saw where the pivot isn't centered. You better put the fat kid on the short end or the long side will always win.
When I used to pull antique tractors we experimented with a long drawbar on some tracks that were bad and I couldn't get enough weight on the rear. It made a dramatic difference, especially when you started getting it several inches back. We had keep it a minimum of 18" from the center of the rear axle. If I moved it back to 24", it took quite a bit more weight on the nose.
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That makes sense on paper but all that says to me is less work from the front and more for the back equaling even more breakage of rears. One guy around here always had his hitch way behind the bumper that thing would spin like mad but never get down the track. He shortened it up like 18" and wouldn't you know it hooks like crazy now.
 
probably be like last year... discuss changes at the meeting, release something about 3-4 months later, that still has errors and typos in it such that nobody knows what the hell the rules are... lol

Regardless of what they do, they should clean up the rule book, fix all the little crap so it is clear what is an actual rule vs. what is not enforced anymore vs. that was voted out a long time ago and we forgot to remove it. Then post it to the website by Dec. 1st.
 
Yellow Jacket said:
If it is changed to 24" hitch height, guys will just extend it 4-6" further out the back to get the same weight transfer to the truck and chassis... It doesn't change a whole lot IMO.
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GOT-Torque said:
probably be like last year... discuss changes at the meeting, release something about 3-4 months later, that still has errors and typos in it such that nobody knows what the hell the rules are... lol

Regardless of what they do, they should clean up the rule book, fix all the little crap so it is clear what is an actual rule vs. what is not enforced anymore vs. that was voted out a long time ago and we forgot to remove it. Then post it to the website by Dec. 1st.
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I am looking at the avatar pic. Is the rear tire falling off or just an illusion?
 
There was a meeting to talk about rules ideas at Rudy's last weekend. All of the ideas that have been in here were talked about with good points for and against each. In the end of the meeting the best idea of all came out: "Leave it alone and let the numbers continue to grow"

I was all for a open rear end in 2.6 but after thinking about it and doing the math it is not as easy and cheap as it looks. The older f106's are the cheap option but your limited to a 6.20 gear that is not going to work with you existing tcase. The newer stuff comes in better ratio's but is costly. Keep and eye on your gears in the rear and change them before they break. The cost of a gear set is not much more then an oil change on one of these high power trucks.
 
You can build a 20-145 for well under $4000 and it has the same ratio for front as AAM and Dana. You can do it even cheaper if you really want and do most of it yourself.

I know that for a fact because I built one this year and run it locally. Maybe drop boxes aren't the answer but the larger rear will be cheaper in the end.

You can pick one up at a salvage yard for under $1600 housing and all. R&P is about $500 if it doesn't have the right gears for you. I built mine with custom axles so I can bolt right on 8 lug wheels and put on a pinion brake. Works great and weight was very close to my AAM.
 
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JerrodGlover said:
There was a meeting to talk about rules ideas at Rudy's last weekend. All of the ideas that have been in here were talked about with good points for and against each. In the end of the meeting the best idea of all came out: "Leave it alone and let the numbers continue to grow"

I was all for a open rear end in 2.6 but after thinking about it and doing the math it is not as easy and cheap as it looks. The older f106's are the cheap option but your limited to a 6.20 gear that is not going to work with you existing tcase. The newer stuff comes in better ratio's but is costly. Keep and eye on your gears in the rear and change them before they break. The cost of a gear set is not much more then an oil change on one of these high power trucks.
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Our local org voted last night to basically follow 2.6 PPL but allow open rear. I say basically because the PPL rulebook is full of mistakes and uncorrected changes, we condensed it into a single page of simple rules. I also believe MMTTPA is going to allow open rear for next year. I'm hoping that Bush and Outlaws will do the same.

Why would allowing an open rear not continue to let the numbers grow? It doesn't prevent anyone from hooking if they change nothing from last year. Big rears can be built for the same money as an equivalent 80 or AAM to hold up, just don't call a big name shop. 4.63 is the fastest gear for a f106 I believe. SQHD is 3.X to 8.X.
 
JerrodGlover said:
"Leave it alone and let the numbers continue to grow".
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So everyone there was ok with buying an HX80 to be competitive? Or do they just not understand what will happen next season if the current turbocharger rules don't change?

The flawed thought process here is that people will continue to build trucks for a class where they will not be competitive because they don't understand how far the rules are being exploited. So the numbers in the class may come up, but the same 5 guys or so will keep winning, I'm sure that won't drive people away at some point.
 
Smokem said:
So everyone there was ok with buying an HX80 to be competitive? Or do they just not understand what will happen next season if the current turbocharger rules don't change.
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Weston, C'mon now you know if a person can't afford a 6k+ Turbo they have no business playing in 2.6. LOL good thing is we should be able to pick up some 60s cheap. Ha
 
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