lets see pics of traction bars

RJM06590 said:
Theyre 6"8" and 2".
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Hmm, thought for sure they're 1-7/8" x 80" from the pix... of course, the bracket design really impacts the bending moment.

CL2000 said:
I dont like anything that rotates on both ends because it will cause the bars to chatter going down the rod.
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An adjustable design prevents unloading the suspension.
 
S.S and big a$$ jam nuts to eliminate noise and wear on the threads from street driving.
 

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6'8" is 80" lol. He's had them on there for a couple months now so well see. If they bend ill rebuild them stronger. The rear brackets are welded to the axle tubes at the bottom of the axle, slightly forward. The front mounts are welded to the fram and are straight down with gussets. The gussets weren't pictured.
 
XLR8R said:
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An adjustable design prevents unloading the suspension.
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if they are built right they don't need to be be pre loaded to make them work. I run a heim and a bushing. They work fine. I had a long talk with a guy that builds trophy trucks and he told me to build them this way. There are alot of traction bars that don't even work the way they should.
 
The ones on my puller are double bushing. No op whatsoever whether its street dirt or hooked to the sled.
 
CL2000 said:
if they are built right they don't need to be be pre loaded to make them work. I run a heim and a bushing. They work fine. I had a long talk with a guy that builds trophy trucks and he told me to build them this way. There are alot of traction bars that don't even work the way they should.
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well now im curious as to wether i should use heim joints on both ends or a bushing on one end. once i build my bars how do i go about properly adjusting them for street and sled pulling
 
i found some bungs and heim on ebay im thinking of ordering the are 3/4-16 and the bungs fit 1'' 1/2 tubing with .25 walls and 1'' opening would that be plenty big enough or would i need 2''
 
FIRST GEN. JAKE said:
well now im curious as to wether i should use heim joints on both ends or a bushing on one end. once i build my bars how do i go about properly adjusting them for street and sled pulling
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If they are built right they shouldn't need adjusted. Follow the angle of the driveshaft and you will be fine.
 
I made mine with cat. #1 center links (just like every redneck does) and 2"x2" box tubing, Its only 1/8"-3/16" thick wall. Been running them since '08 with no problems, or any bending. Bars dont need to be built bulletproof, if you install them at the correct angle.

I would post some pics if I were smart enough to know how to do it.:nail:
 
bdp said:
These are not done but you get the idea. Future ones will have laser cut componets and powerdercoat.


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How wide are those wheels and tires? They look good!:rockwoot:
 
I would use DOM, but are you guys saying that sch40 won't bend sooner than sch 80?
 
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