12 valve into 2005 F150

T

texastruck

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I just got my 12 valve and 47rh tranny pulled from a 1994 Dodge. Was wondering if I'll need the wiring harness from the truck. I was starting to remove the loom just in case I need it, but once it goes into the cab it is a MESS and is causing a lot of frustration. I plan on getting a Compushift Mini to control TC and OD on the tranny. I could use an external voltage regulator for the alternator, is there anything else I might need the Dodge wiring harness for, or can I wire everything into the Ford's? I plan on keeping A/C, Lights, Radio and such. Thanks

Oh and while I'm at it, here's a list of everything I've removed from the Dodge that I'm considering using in my swap:

Cummins 12 valve
Dodge alternator
47RH 2wd transmission
In-tank fuel module
Dodge PCM
Accelerator pedal assembly
Throttle cable
Intercooler and hoses
Radiator and hoses
Transmission cooler (its in bad shape, may have replace anyway)
 
If you're using the ford dash, you need adapters for the senders to fit the 12v holes and be using the ford harness. I would keep the harness just in case.
 
post lots of pics. this sounds like a cool swap. I've only seen a 4bt fit into one of these trucks.
 
Like stated above, use the ford harness and adapt the sensors to fit into the cummins. Example: your coolant temp sensor just wants to read temperature, it doesn't know/care what engine it's stuck into. Sounds like a cool swap for sure! Let's see some pics!
 
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Ghostman said:
Could look into the Anteater.


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Click to expand...

I talked to it's builder/designer when doing a swap for the father in laws 88 GMC...basically, for a 47RH, it will be spendy to get an Anteater up and running.

I went with the CompuShift Mini....I forget the guys name now, but ABSOLUTELY STELLAR service. Tell him what you have and he build the harness to match. Controller takes a little tweaking, but it works as advertised. Bruce might be his name.


If Brandon or the Anteater guys want to correct me, they are welcome to...I didn't research it beyond that.
Chris
 
Thanks for all your input guys. And don't worry, I'm taking lots of pictures of the teardown. I'll post once I get some real progress done. Right now the engine is off the hoist onto a stand. Going to do some basic housekeeping on it. KDP fix, clean/paint. Plan on running either 370 marine injectors, or 5x14 if I can justify the extra cost. I'm thinking of advancing the timing to maybe to 16 or 17 degrees while the timing cover is off. I'll have to do more research on that.

This project definitely going to take some time, after I'm done with the Cummins, I'll move on to rebuilding the 47rh with a new single disc TC. I'm thinking Goerend. Not sure if I'll need to invest in billet flexplate and input. But we'll see.

Then it's on to working on the divorced NP205. I have the seal kit sitting here waiting to go in. Bearings look fine so I'll leave them alone.

My Dana 60 is out of a 2007 Super Duty, so it's ready for coils already, just going to make some new radius arms. Stock ones are too bulky.

I still need to find a Sterling 10.5 for the rear, but I have time, and those shouldn't be too hard to find.

So yeah, I'll be busy for a while. The electrical stuff is the only thing I know I'll need help on, even with something as simple as a 12 valve. I'll keep everyone updated.
 
And Signature600, thank you for sharing your experience with the CompuShift Mini. Good to hear it works as advertised.
 
Do the input shaft....it takes parts with it when it breaks. Use either the flexplate or the output shaft as a fuse, they are cheaper to fix.

Chris
 
Gotcha. So leave flexplate as the weak point. Thanks.

I'll be tackling the timing advance as soon as I settle on a method and gather the tools. I'm thinking of cobbling together my own kit like in the attached picture.
 

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