12v build to start soon!
- Thread starter Zeppelin654
- Start date
Zeppelin654
New member
THE:
Custom bent .093 lines:
Hamilton 188/220 cam:
Reman head with 400 miles on it. O Ringed. 5 angle valve job. Fully ported and polished by the man himself, Joe Kolodziej. Flowing 200 cfm. Hamilton 165# springs are in as well:
oh yes….
Custom bent .093 lines:
Hamilton 188/220 cam:
Reman head with 400 miles on it. O Ringed. 5 angle valve job. Fully ported and polished by the man himself, Joe Kolodziej. Flowing 200 cfm. Hamilton 165# springs are in as well:
oh yes….
WUnderwood
Moderator
sa weet!
Zeppelin654
New member
ACOFFED: PM Sent
Zeppelin654
New member
I want some more of your opinions on the break in….please, because I keep going back and forth.
I'm, honestly, kinda sketched out about firing up the new motor and jumping it right up to 2000 rpm with NO coolant for 20 minutes.
What does this really do? Do the "benefits" of doing this, heavily outweigh the "risk"????
Does it just seat the rings right away. The motors gota be hitting like 400 degrees or sompin like that…..Is there no break in blow-by after this?
I'm looking to have the truck back together in a month or so, and I'm planning on pulling it in July and August. No too many miles will be put on in the time between the build and the pulls. Is the NO coolant/water method the best for this?
PLEASE help me make up my mind. (One thing that is making me doubt my original decision of doing it with no coolant is that my builder (who has built quite a few pulling trucks that were decent competitors….) said he hasn't ever done that on a new build and wasn't totally confident in doing it..
Thanks guys for the help
I'm, honestly, kinda sketched out about firing up the new motor and jumping it right up to 2000 rpm with NO coolant for 20 minutes.
What does this really do? Do the "benefits" of doing this, heavily outweigh the "risk"????
Does it just seat the rings right away. The motors gota be hitting like 400 degrees or sompin like that…..Is there no break in blow-by after this?
I'm looking to have the truck back together in a month or so, and I'm planning on pulling it in July and August. No too many miles will be put on in the time between the build and the pulls. Is the NO coolant/water method the best for this?
PLEASE help me make up my mind. (One thing that is making me doubt my original decision of doing it with no coolant is that my builder (who has built quite a few pulling trucks that were decent competitors….) said he hasn't ever done that on a new build and wasn't totally confident in doing it..
Thanks guys for the help
12VALVEADAM
Motivated
I dont think you want to do it for 20 minutes. 5-10 minutes probably is what i have gathered from talking to people and reading on here. The most i heard of was 20 minutes. I plan on doing it for 5-10 min this time. Last time i did the coolant way and took about 1500-2000 hard miles to clear up the blow-by.
Zeppelin654
New member
Thanks guys. I don't plan on tearing it down every year, so I hope this is still a legit break in formula. I may just end up doing 10 minutes. Its tough to believe that you just take her right up to 2000 rpm right off the bat. …though I guess there will be a couple previous heat cycles before hand for torquing the head studs/motor tests……etc.
Zeppelin654
New member
Pillar Pods came in:
Gauges….finally not on backorder and now to me:
Gauges….finally not on backorder and now to me:
Zeppelin654
New member
Runner intake has arrived!!!
Joe is a BEAST!!!!!
The rollin snowball is getting bigger by the minute
We are getting close my friends
Joe is a BEAST!!!!!
The rollin snowball is getting bigger by the minute
We are getting close my friends
Zeppelin654
New member
kinda seems like my thread died, but I'll ask anyway….what timing do you think I should run? I've got 145 spray pattern injectors and Mahle 286210 standard bore pistons, fyi. I was planning on setting it at 26-28*'s to start with. (at least in the summer….I'll be driving it on the street on occasion, so maybe in the winter I'll bump it down to 18 or so…)
Also, I'm highly considering getting my pistons coated. Is this just a general coating? or something special? If its "special," what are we talking about?
Been thinking about a billet timing cover, and one piece valve cover too. Not important items and save my money?
Motors out btw. Tore her down today. I hope my little 3800# valair DD and bigger input shaft will be able to keep up….
Also, I'm highly considering getting my pistons coated. Is this just a general coating? or something special? If its "special," what are we talking about?
Been thinking about a billet timing cover, and one piece valve cover too. Not important items and save my money?
Motors out btw. Tore her down today. I hope my little 3800# valair DD and bigger input shaft will be able to keep up….
Last edited:
FIRST GEN. JAKE
New member
zep dont feel bad my thread is dead too... maybe because every part i go to order is on back order haha
White Knight
New member
We're following, just not saying what has already been said: The build looks great, keep it up :rockwoot:
You'll probably have to play with the timing numbers a little to get it running best but 26* sounds like a good starting point.
The billet timing covers don't add anything significant except looks and access to an adjustable timing gear. Most timing covers require you to machine own the pulley on the damper and run a 4-pully belt to fit. The covers like Scheids that have a bearing for the cam nose do add a benefit in that area. I think CPP makes a timing cover that works with the stock damper belt.
A one piece valve cover is sweet an helps the rockers from deflecting, but is it worth it?
Paulb had a good thread about piston coatings: Coated Piston - CompD The Swain Tech coating he used seemed to hold up really well.
You'll probably have to play with the timing numbers a little to get it running best but 26* sounds like a good starting point.
The billet timing covers don't add anything significant except looks and access to an adjustable timing gear. Most timing covers require you to machine own the pulley on the damper and run a 4-pully belt to fit. The covers like Scheids that have a bearing for the cam nose do add a benefit in that area. I think CPP makes a timing cover that works with the stock damper belt.
A one piece valve cover is sweet an helps the rockers from deflecting, but is it worth it?
Paulb had a good thread about piston coatings: Coated Piston - CompD The Swain Tech coating he used seemed to hold up really well.
Zeppelin654
New member
I guess it does get repetitive saying good luck with the build all the time….I'm glad you guys are still following.
Joe really does good work and good business. I've recommended him to about 10 of my diesel buddies and a couple who asked me about heads and the runner. I'll be coming back to him again in the future too, for sure.
Jake, backordered parts sucks. I had to wait three months to get the gauges, and I'm still waiting on my steed speed and ati damper. Don't know why these things are so scarce that nobody has em.
Derek, thanks a lot for all the good info. I don't think I'm gona do a timing cover, but I am going to pick up a rocker support from Weston (plate that sits on top of the valve covers and ties em all together for added rigidity). I will look into the coating info. I really plan on doing that for longevity and durability.
I'm thinking I'll start with the timing at 26*'s and the plate at full forward to begin with…..then go from there
Thanks guys! Stick with me. Its just starting to get interesting!!
Joe really does good work and good business. I've recommended him to about 10 of my diesel buddies and a couple who asked me about heads and the runner. I'll be coming back to him again in the future too, for sure.
Jake, backordered parts sucks. I had to wait three months to get the gauges, and I'm still waiting on my steed speed and ati damper. Don't know why these things are so scarce that nobody has em.
Derek, thanks a lot for all the good info. I don't think I'm gona do a timing cover, but I am going to pick up a rocker support from Weston (plate that sits on top of the valve covers and ties em all together for added rigidity). I will look into the coating info. I really plan on doing that for longevity and durability.
I'm thinking I'll start with the timing at 26*'s and the plate at full forward to begin with…..then go from there
Thanks guys! Stick with me. Its just starting to get interesting!!
White Knight
New member
Weston's rocker support is a nice piece, simple and effective. Hard to argue with that combination.
Have you read all the talk about the installed height of Hamilton springs? That might be something to check on before final assembly.
Good luck! We're looking forward to seeing this come together :Cheer:
Have you read all the talk about the installed height of Hamilton springs? That might be something to check on before final assembly.
Good luck! We're looking forward to seeing this come together :Cheer:
Zeppelin654
New member
Joe told me the springs would be fine, but I will double check before its all said and done. Think a little machining of the covers is all that is needed if the height is off? Would that be enough? I actually just picked up that rocker support from Weston two minutes ago. It should do the trick. I think I'm gona end up sending my pistons out to swain tech and get the top and skirt coatings done (maybe a dumb question because I'm not sure where they "shave the pistons" to balance them, but should I do the coating before or after the balancing??). $300 for all six aint bad. Gona get the rockers machined for the arps, pistons balanced, rods balanced and polished, and crank balanced at DLK here soon once the motors apart.