2 stage/dual stage water to air for a daily driver

Water to air for a DD

Summit racing has some decent pumps. Look up pumps that replace water pumps but are universal.


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Got it figured out. For now, I'll run 1 of these pumps in the bed:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-8000bl/overview/
with this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-8002r


With 2 of these heat exchangers stacked in the stock IC location:
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1063&osCsid=49603d2a8e997db8b34247446674f72d


and this tank:
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?products_id=1227&osCsid=49603d2a8e997db8b34247446674f72d

If the pump can't move enough water through everything, I'll try to locate it under the hood somewhere, and just not run a tank.




PS: I'm sorry for posting all the useless posts in here, but hopefully someone else can skip all my learning steps and get straight to the spending money part.
 
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That's a much better pump than the bilge pump crap you were gonna use lol.


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Ghostman said:
That's a much better pump than the bilge pump crap you were gonna use lol.


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Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm glad someone reminded me of summit/jegs. Can't believe I didn't check there first. Just stupid of me.

I hope it has enough balls to go through 15 feet of hose, a 2 coolers, 2 radiators, and back through 15' of hose to the tank. With the various uphills and a couple hose size changes. Even if it slows down to say 30gpm, it should be enough for my relatively low 7-800hp worth of hot air.
 
Before I buy the exchangers, do I need anything fancy? How big/how many pass radiator do you think would be needed per turbo/cooler circuit? If I can save 200 bucks on heat exchangers I'll mess my pants.
 
madmikeismad said:
Before I buy the exchangers, do I need anything fancy? How big/how many pass radiator do you think would be needed per turbo/cooler circuit? If I can save 200 bucks on heat exchangers I'll mess my pants.
Click to expand...


I would say as big as they will fit in the space you have.


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What are you doing to control the flow rate through the system? Other threads on the topic don't seem to address this either iirc.
Higher heat latency in the air charge will mean you need to slow the flow rate at the exchanger to allow it time to function at a similar rate to when it isn't heat laden. I guess consistent liquid inlet temp at the cooler(s) is what I am trying to say.
Have you got a way to monitor the coolant inlet and outlet temps?

Monkey Fist Rage
 
biggy238 said:
What are you doing to control the flow rate through the system? Other threads on the topic don't seem to address this either iirc.
Higher heat latency in the air charge will mean you need to slow the flow rate at the exchanger to allow it time to function at a similar rate to when it isn't heat laden. I guess consistent liquid inlet temp at the cooler(s) is what I am trying to say.
Have you got a way to monitor the coolant inlet and outlet temps?

Monkey Fist Rage
Click to expand...


It's necessary and beneficial to have as turbulent flow as possible through the cooler to cool the water. Turbulent flow happens at increased speeds. I would pump as fast as possible through them. Turbulence allows each molecule of water to touch the actual radiator and be cooled instead of flowing through the middle of it and not gaining contact.


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Precision recommended 60gpm to me for these coolers and said the more flow the better however, I have a friend that's running a big W2A with two big rule pumps feeding it and there is some doubt floating around that he may be feeding it too much.. he's talking about taking one pump off for next season, I'll have to wait and see the results
 
yes- a bus booster pump for the rear heater works wonderful - I ran them with my DD water setup. Uses 1" heater hose
I also used a bus rear seat heater as the cooling rad as it is compact yet large in surface area - we hung it under the bed using its own mounts
I had it plumbed with a heat exchanger in an ice box as well so you could up the ante, should you wish to go pulling
so not so different than using two rads
 
seeker1056 said:
yes- a bus booster pump for the rear heater works wonderful - I ran them with my DD water setup. Uses 1" heater hose
I also used a bus rear seat heater as the cooling rad as it is compact yet large in surface area - we hung it under the bed using its own mounts
I had it plumbed with a heat exchanger in an ice box as well so you could up the ante, should you wish to go pulling
so not so different than using two rads
Click to expand...

Have you measured temperatures? Also any idea what those pumps are rated at?
 
newsmoke said:
Precision recommended 60gpm to me for these coolers and said the more flow the better however, I have a friend that's running a big W2A with two big rule pumps feeding it and there is some doubt floating around that he may be feeding it too much.. he's talking about taking one pump off for next season, I'll have to wait and see the results
Click to expand...

Thats the info I'm using. I figure 1 pump (for now) rated at 55gpm won't be able to push too much through the entire system. I figure even when I add a 2nd pump, so that there's one for each circuit, they still won't be able to push too much. I wish I could have got solid answers on whether or not a healthy fuel pump would work even as a pusher pump for the 2 water pumps. Something tells me the water pumps don't like to be fed with pressure though.
 
Ghostman said:
It's necessary and beneficial to have as turbulent flow as possible through the cooler to cool the water. Turbulent flow happens at increased speeds. I would pump as fast as possible through them. Turbulence allows each molecule of water to touch the actual radiator and be cooled instead of flowing through the middle of it and not gaining contact.


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Click to expand...

This is to eliminate the laminar flow that lowers exchange efficiency.

That isn't what I'm talking about.
If you have no flow regulation, you are either too hot or too cool on a non maximum effort run. I know this depends on the btu capacity, but on a system that is closely matched due to packaging, it needs regulation to maintain any level of consistency.

I'm curious about the performance market thought regarding this vs OE where target inlet temp is the goal.

Monkey Fist Rage
 
biggy238 said:
This is to eliminate the laminar flow that lowers exchange efficiency.

That isn't what I'm talking about.
If you have no flow regulation, you are either too hot or too cool on a non maximum effort run. I know this depends on the btu capacity, but on a system that is closely matched due to packaging, it needs regulation to maintain any level of consistency.

I'm curious about the performance market thought regarding this vs OE where target inlet temp is the goal.

Monkey Fist Rage
Click to expand...


Ok I see what you your saying. Do you think it matters much if his intake temps fluctuate some, say even 100°. Factory does it for sure with a single a/a. Now not saying that's the best, but how are you going to adjust, and regulate according to outside temps as well?


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The 6.7 Fords are factory A2W. Has anyone ever measured the air temps on one?
 
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