patracy
New member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2008
- Messages
- 265
Just documenting my WVO setup I've constructed for my 1999 Cummins 24V with the VP44. I should state that I'm not going to run this as a 100% WVO setup. I'll be running a percentage of diesel fuel or Kerosene in the tank with the WVO as well to help reduce the coking effect WVO can have. In any case I've constructed my system with K.I.S.S. in mind. Not so much in overall complexity. But in components.
I'll start with the tank first. It's a plastic marine tank. It's 23 gallons. It fit inside my toolbox. I wanted to be able to have everything hidden out of sight. Best of all, it was only $33. I did have to clean a layer of varnish out of it (lacquer thinner works great!) and I had to replace the sending unit. I picked up a sender from the local marina shop. $33 for it.
I used a Mallory 4060FI fuel pump for the WVO setup. You can get away with a typical vane style pump for diesel. But WVO is to viscus for a vane pump. The oil will cause the vanes to "stick" in place and stop pumping. The Mallory fuel pumps are a gearotor style pump. So they use a gear to pump.
I used a series of fittings to step it up to 1" NPT into a goldenrod filter. The goldenrod filter is nice since it's clear. I can check on the filter media. One of the worries with WVO is polymerization. A traditional screw on cannister filter wouldn't allow you to see this in that event. Next I stepped it down to a tee with a adjustable pressure regulator. This bleeds off excess pressure back to the tank.
From that point the output from the pump/filter/regulator/tank is fed into my hose in hose setup.
The hose in hose is a 1" ID hose with 1/2" aluminum fuel line inside. I drilled out the center of the 1/2" compression fittings to seal them off. There are tees at both ends to allow coolant to pass through. This allows heat transfer. The key to WVO setups. The total length of the hose in hose is about 15ft. So the fuel is heated plenty by the time it reaches the engine. Here's the end that meets the engine.
I fastened the hose in hose along the frame rail. Also I used a 5/8" heater hose for the return.
I tapped off the head for the heat supply. I used a ball valves to adjust flow. It's also a good idea to valve off the coolant flow in and out in the event you have a leak.
The return line is tied back into the heater core return.
Here's a pic of everything plumbed as well.
On to the engine itself. I used a pair of 1/2" check valves. Most people use expensive valves. But in my opinion that's a more expensive means to do so. And leads to failures.
I used a 4 way fitting to allow for a port for my fuel pressure gauge and my warning light as well.
While I was working on all of this I upgraded my diesel fuel system as well. I used 1/2" fuel lines with a 1/2" draw straw. I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.
The VP44
The new fuel pump for diesel
Now for the return. Since the dodge is a return system. You have to have a selector valve for the return.
Now about the return valve. Since I've got a dual pump setup with check valves. You have to have a delay to keep the selector valve feeding back to the WVO tank for purging. Otherwise you'll pump the WVO from the IP, injectors, and lines back into your diesel tank. I built a timer based off the 555 chip. Crude looking inside, I know, but it works.
Here's a video of the controller in action cycling through sources and a purge cycle.
YouTube - WVO controller with purge cycle
Since I don't smoke I used the ash tray for a holder for the controller. Also notice the fuel gauge.
All said and done I've got about $500 in my setup. So in about 5 tanks it'll be paid for.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask if you need any help. The wiring is a documentation all on it's own...
I'll start with the tank first. It's a plastic marine tank. It's 23 gallons. It fit inside my toolbox. I wanted to be able to have everything hidden out of sight. Best of all, it was only $33. I did have to clean a layer of varnish out of it (lacquer thinner works great!) and I had to replace the sending unit. I picked up a sender from the local marina shop. $33 for it.
I used a Mallory 4060FI fuel pump for the WVO setup. You can get away with a typical vane style pump for diesel. But WVO is to viscus for a vane pump. The oil will cause the vanes to "stick" in place and stop pumping. The Mallory fuel pumps are a gearotor style pump. So they use a gear to pump.
I used a series of fittings to step it up to 1" NPT into a goldenrod filter. The goldenrod filter is nice since it's clear. I can check on the filter media. One of the worries with WVO is polymerization. A traditional screw on cannister filter wouldn't allow you to see this in that event. Next I stepped it down to a tee with a adjustable pressure regulator. This bleeds off excess pressure back to the tank.
From that point the output from the pump/filter/regulator/tank is fed into my hose in hose setup.
The hose in hose is a 1" ID hose with 1/2" aluminum fuel line inside. I drilled out the center of the 1/2" compression fittings to seal them off. There are tees at both ends to allow coolant to pass through. This allows heat transfer. The key to WVO setups. The total length of the hose in hose is about 15ft. So the fuel is heated plenty by the time it reaches the engine. Here's the end that meets the engine.
I fastened the hose in hose along the frame rail. Also I used a 5/8" heater hose for the return.
I tapped off the head for the heat supply. I used a ball valves to adjust flow. It's also a good idea to valve off the coolant flow in and out in the event you have a leak.
The return line is tied back into the heater core return.
Here's a pic of everything plumbed as well.
On to the engine itself. I used a pair of 1/2" check valves. Most people use expensive valves. But in my opinion that's a more expensive means to do so. And leads to failures.
I used a 4 way fitting to allow for a port for my fuel pressure gauge and my warning light as well.
While I was working on all of this I upgraded my diesel fuel system as well. I used 1/2" fuel lines with a 1/2" draw straw. I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.
The VP44
The new fuel pump for diesel
Now for the return. Since the dodge is a return system. You have to have a selector valve for the return.
Now about the return valve. Since I've got a dual pump setup with check valves. You have to have a delay to keep the selector valve feeding back to the WVO tank for purging. Otherwise you'll pump the WVO from the IP, injectors, and lines back into your diesel tank. I built a timer based off the 555 chip. Crude looking inside, I know, but it works.
Here's a video of the controller in action cycling through sources and a purge cycle.
YouTube - WVO controller with purge cycle
Since I don't smoke I used the ash tray for a holder for the controller. Also notice the fuel gauge.
All said and done I've got about $500 in my setup. So in about 5 tanks it'll be paid for.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask if you need any help. The wiring is a documentation all on it's own...