A/W intercooler questions

Sportster1208

Sportster1208

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Nov 14, 2011
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I've read a lot on here about the dislike of cheap A/W setups that some are claiming little to no advantages over a good aftermarket A/A. Others are claiming they are having great results running a Frozen Boost intercooler and a simple beer cooler. Anyone care to share real data before and after temps, pump size and amount of ice used?
I so far have a type 22 Frozen Boost intercooler and 3/4" hose and fittings along with 4" intercooler piping that I'm going to install shortly. My pump is a 4000gph bilge pump that my plans are to use either an ice box built in my weight box or an Igloo in the bed. Any advantages? Disadvantages to different setups?
I know of one other puller using the same intercooler seeing 130* temps and about 40lbs of ice in an in bed cooler with two pumps.

Thanks Ahead of time guys, Troy
 
I'll have to wait and see how mine does, but I want him to run with my A/A and my A/W. I also am using 1 1/4 hose and way more ice
 
Thanks Steve I got a couple tips so far to try and I believe that will help a lot. If I can make an icebox on the weight box I'll be further ahead I believe.
 
I've seen a truck go from snuffing out at the end to staying on top of the charger just by changing from 2 frozen boost coolers to a quality unit. On the dyno, intake temps with a good water to air are around 75-80 degrees. I run a 30 gallon water tank in the weight box. Usually takes about 80 pounds of ice.
 
BluegrassDiesel said:
I've seen a truck go from snuffing out at the end to staying on top of the charger just by changing from 2 frozen boost coolers to a quality unit. On the dyno, intake temps with a good water to air are around 75-80 degrees. I run a 30 gallon water tank in the weight box. Usually takes about 80 pounds of ice.
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I'm running 2 frozen boost I welded together. 2 rule 3800 pumps. On the dyno and first test hook I saw pre cooler 480* post cooler 84* My cooler box steams pretty good post run. 50 pounds of had pretty much melted

But there are def better coolers out there.

from phone
 
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It's nice to have it in the weight box so you can have more weight up front, and a lot less hose to mess with vs. running a cooler in the bed.
 
ClamDigger4 said:
I'm running 2 frozen boost I welded together. 2 rule 3800 pumps. On the dyno and first test hook I saw pre cooler 480* post cooler 84* My cooler box steams pretty good post run. 50 pounds of had pretty much melted

But there are def better coolers out there.

from phone
Click to expand...

That's pretty good. I think the frozen boost units are better than an air/air for sure. Next time I dyno I'd like to get some data on pressure drop also.
 
BluegrassDiesel said:
It's nice to have it in the weight box so you can have more weight up front, and a lot less hose to mess with vs. running a cooler in the bed.
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My thoughts would be less travel distance resulting in more water transferring through the core. Also I need to check pump rating because If the pump is rated for 4000gph I'm sure that's at the 1-1/2" outlet that's on it not necked down to a smaller hose.
 
Sportster1208 said:
My thoughts would be less travel distance resulting in more water transferring through the core. Also I need to check pump rating because If the pump is rated for 4000gph I'm sure that's at the 1-1/2" outlet that's on it not necked down to a smaller hose.
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Its rated for the 1 1/2" hose, and your right the shorter the hose the better results you will have. The cheap units will work just fine but they will never be the best.

Every truck will have different after cooler IAT's depending on the head, valves, cam, turbo, ect.
 
94 12valve said:
Its rated for the 1 1/2" hose, and your right the shorter the hose the better results you will have. The cheap units will work just fine but they will never be the best.

Every truck will have different after cooler IAT's depending on the head, valves, cam, turbo, ect.
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Thanks Dave, my first order of attention is going to be adding bungs and changing the outlet sizes. Gotta got a weight box/ ice box figured out.
 
Gallons no, I had enough water in it to make the system full (water level right at the top of the pumps with them running) put 90# of ice in it and still had room for water. I heard that u just want to keep the water level above the pumps. Anyone hear different? Sorry for jacking the thread Troy
 
BluegrassDiesel said:
That's pretty good. I think the frozen boost units are better than an air/air for sure. Next time I dyno I'd like to get some data on pressure drop also.
Click to expand...

I have a type 22 frozen boost Josh that I'm using this year. When ever Kent gets around to do my dyno, I'm going to get pre and post boost/ temp readings I hope. I'll let you know the findings
 
cumins01 said:
Gallons no, I had enough water in it to make the system full (water level right at the top of the pumps with them running) put 90# of ice in it and still had room for water. I heard that u just want to keep the water level above the pumps. Anyone hear different? Sorry for jacking the thread Troy
Click to expand...

No problem this is all info I need also!
 
We are running 2 of the frozen boost welded together and 2 of the largest sump type bilge pumps we can get. On the dyno we were seeing 55 degree inlet air temp. Saturday we melted 120 pounds of ice in one run. Works excellent.
 
We start with 10 gallon of water, 70-80lb of ice. Using one of those laser thermometers, the ice water is right at freezing and the i/c itself is less than 40* while waiting in line. I would think the big pumps' benefit would be when your sending the warm boost through the cooler on the track, it would transfer the heat quicker. Cuz its only needed for 15 sec or so!!
 
dieselpolaris said:
We are running 2 of the frozen boost welded together and 2 of the largest sump type bilge pumps we can get. On the dyno we were seeing 55 degree inlet air temp. Saturday we melted 120 pounds of ice in one run. Works excellent.
Click to expand...

What type of coolers are u using? How big of hose?
 
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