Air Filter testing....

The old SPICER filter test is still helping people. Good to hear.
I remember when he was getting that together, and when K&N contacted him about it later.
 
Its almost impossible to beat OEM filtration. Fleetgaurd is another that's really done their homework and replacing it would be foolish in my opinion. If ones horsepower exceed OEM CFM capabilities then dry elements are the only way to go. Comparing Fleetgaurds efficiency ratings to K&N (going by their published numbers), K&N passes 10x more dirt than Fleetgaurd. Other oiled elements with similar pleated material will have similar results.
 
And yet how many people have lost a motor due directly to a k&n? I've run them on two different turbod engines with no issues, we run them on dad's vette with no issues, his last 6.5 with no issues, one friend runs them on all of their vehicles with no issues. And these are all vehicles that went over a 100k miles with this filter.
 
On the other hand, why use a filter that doesn't filter as well when a similar filter can filter more effectively while still providing the minimal performance gain?
 
And do you have oil analysis data for all of those vehicles?

I could wipe the dirt off the compressor inlet of my turbo with my finger when I ran a drop-in housing k&n. It could have been sealed incorrectly, or it could have been passing dirt, or both.
 
Actually, years ago Cummins released a bulletin stating that any engines that came in with a K&N filter were to be denied any engine related warranty repairs. This was in reaction to a number of dusted engines.
Stock to lightly modified engines do not benefit from an aftermarket filter at all, your money could be better spent elsewhere. If it is needed, there are some dry element options out there that will not sacrifice filtering efficiency.
 
I do for one of them (although I'd have to find it). Nothing was reported out of normal.

And yet the question remains, show me proof of a vehicle whose engine was destroyed due directly to a k&n. I've asked this question on every forum I've been on and I get the same responses that you three just gave me but have yet to be shown an engine that was destroyed due directly to a k&n.
 
Guaranteed silicone levels would be elevevated compared to OEM filtration, if you could find them. Cummins released the bulletin for a reason, with specific mention of K&N. Dynos have proved countless times there are zero gains from ditching your air filter for a window screen, but K&N will gladly take your money anyway ;) The numbers I posted above in regards to K&N passing ten times more dirt than Fleetgaurd were taken directly from each of their website, again fact not opinion. Vehicles that never leave the asphalt may do ok but I can guarantee any engine in a dusty environment will see elevated silicone levels after running a K&N. The facts are there for our benefit, but we all are entitled to run whatever we "think" is best.
 
For the same price as a K&N, you can get a BHAF Donaldson that will last towards 100K. It flows better & cleans better. Why chance it?
Back in the day, K&N's motto was "It cleans better as it gets dirtier". What does that tell you about it's filtration when clean?

Ed
 
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I'd have to go find my reports, but when I purchased a 98 it had a K&N on it. I left it in place for maybe a year, with a couple of oil analysis on it. Both reports had slightly elevated silicate levels. Replaced with OEM filter and the silicate levels dropped. I have over 100k miles on that OEM filter and still counting.

The silicate levels were not alarming by any means. The turbo inlet was covered in oily dirty shyt. Ran one on a silverado gasser. That thing always had dirt and water trails in the intake.
 
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I've been told by companies that do oil analysis to avoid oiled filters due to the reasons mentioned. I like dry filters mostly because I'm cheap and partly for piece of mind.

It doesn't matter to me if a K&N filter kills the engine at 500k miles and OEM filters get it to 1 million miles. I'm from the Midwest. The truck will be rusted out at 400k miles.
 
I wonder how the ford 6.0's air filter stack up to the common BHAF we use on our cummins.

If I remember correctly Ford 6.0's air filter have a very high efficiency, hold lots of dirt, and still flows high cfm. I sometime think about try to get an used air cleaner system and see if I can retrofit it on my '97 12v.
 
I did a lot of research and decided to go back to a bhaf. I tried a amsoil nano and a s&b oiled and both dusted the turbo. My amsoil oil analysis came back with 25ppm silicon. You can keep that damn thing.
 
BgBlDodge said:
I do for one of them (although I'd have to find it). Nothing was reported out of normal.

And yet the question remains, show me proof of a vehicle whose engine was destroyed due directly to a k&n. I've asked this question on every forum I've been on and I get the same responses that you three just gave me but have yet to be shown an engine that was destroyed due directly to a k&n.
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My dads 7.3 dusted a motor with a oiled filter. He builds agricultural fence so its off road almost every day in very dusty conditions. No more oiled filters for him!
 
Was it a k&n, was it cleaned and sealed properly, and was it definitively caused by the oiled filter? If so then you are the first person in the last 13 years of me asking this question on multiple forums (5) to have known someone to lose an engine because of one.
 
BgBlDodge said:
Was it a k&n, was it cleaned and sealed properly, and was it definitively caused by the oiled filter? If so then you are the first person in the last 13 years of me asking this question on multiple forums (5) to have known someone to lose an engine because of one.
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It was a GREEN brand but looks identical in every way, it was sealed great and I assume it was serviced correctly but idk for sure... Dirt was for sure what wiped the rings.
 
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