Billet Cam, No Bushings Required?

I checked on coating the bearing journals with some different materials. None of the coating companies, felt they had a coating up to the task. Valve spring pressures is what causes the block to wear, rpm might also contribute to wear. The material compatability becomes an issue, between the iron and 8620 steel. I recommend bushings as well.
 
Yes but why not just run a cast cam? Cheaper, and if you break something in the driveline less likely to snap due to a rpm spike, since it isn't as strong. However if you do run a billet cam bushing are pretty much a necessity
 
Forrest Nearing said:
not sure what you're saying here :confused:
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the billet is so strong its also brittle. the lobes wont wipe off like they will on a cast cam, but they are so hard that a instant change in rpms runs a risk of the cam snapping. the lobes are strong but the shaft itself is kinda brittle, weird right?
 
2000wvdodge said:
the billet is so strong its also brittle. the lobes wont wipe off like they will on a cast cam, but they are so hard that a instant change in rpms runs a risk of the cam snapping. the lobes are strong but the shaft itself is kinda brittle, weird right?
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I think it is quite the opposite. The sudden change in RPM will snap a cast cam.
 
zstroken said:
I think it is quite the opposite. The sudden change in RPM will snap a cast cam.
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i saw a billet cam do so in ladell weavers truck this year, they had the cam cut from the same company that cuts cams for schied and haisley, they told ladell and lamar that the only thing they thought causing it to break was the rpm spike. but then again, freak things happen...
 
If you are going to run above 4500 RPM with a billet cam its a must. I would do it reguardless if running a billet cam. Start with the smaller O.D bushing and so if there is ever a problem you can go to the over sized bushing to repair. The smaller O.D. bushing part # is 3901306. Most 2.6" trucks I know of running a billet camshafts have very little if any valve reliefs cut in there pistons.
 
I got a very good cam from Greg Hogue for a good price. Wasnt billet and ran it 5000 rpms with a Scheid 13mm. But with breaking everything in the driveline throughout the year. Never really got it completely lined out. I dont see a billet being necessary.
 
I have run a 13mm pump for 2 years on a cast cam, I don't fuel hard above 4500, and haven't had a driveline failure. No problems yet. My next engine will have a billet cam.
 
2000wvdodge said:
with a p pump you can make it happen.:hehe:
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Or a lap top....
pimp.gif
 
if you do a cam correctly , you will not need huge flycuts , no more then .060.
in the 2.6 or 2.8 class you need all the compression you can keep.
 
All this talk about billet cams, and no talk of billet tappets?

What's required when running a billet cam?
 
We are close to the release of a "DROP-IN" 8620 Steel Billet cam. NO bushings required. No more complete engine tear down for bushings.

Testing is already underway. 5K+ RPM testing, wear testing, etc is going now.

A few more months (at worse case ) worth of testing and the program will go full steam.
 
Soup Nazi said:
We are close to the release of a "DROP-IN" 8620 Steel Billet cam. NO bushings required. No more complete engine tear down for bushings.

Testing is already underway. 5K+ RPM testing, wear testing, etc is going now.

A few more months (at worse case ) worth of testing and the program will go full steam.
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big deal. EEP has had them for probably 10 years now.
 
COMP461 said:
if you do a cam correctly , you will not need huge flycuts , no more then .060.
in the 2.6 or 2.8 class you need all the compression you can keep.
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That is the ticket!!!!:rockwoot:
Brandon
 
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