c16 rebuild ?

I do so wish I could be in on that conversation.
I know first hand that all it takes is a password generator. I have seen, touched and fondled on a laptop with this very ability.
 
It's not that uncommon anymore for people to have the password generators.
 
Nope. They can be found and laptops can be had with all of the software for the right dollar...
 
artman427 said:
Having my c16 7nz04022 rebuilt any soft ware programs that I should have done at cat like fuel codes 5232 or 6999 with heavy haul program 270-7126, and does that engine have the low-nox program if so can it be replaced with pre-emmision file.I can only go with cat for mods for budget reasons! Thanks
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Back to your original question I would use a pre low NoX file, probably beginning with a 177-xxxx if the ecm will accept it.
 
:lolly:
jfaulkner said:
Back to your original question I would use a pre low NoX file, probably beginning with a 177-xxxx if the ecm will accept it.
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Wouldn't an original 7cz file be a pre low nox file if it was built around 2000-2002.
 
I thought this when I was looking at the one in the shop right now.
 
SmokinCAT said:
:lolly:



Wouldn't an original 7cz file be a pre low nox file if it was built around 2000-2002.
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As long as it has never been to a cat shop for their "free ecm upgrade to make your truck run worse" service.
 
Just curious as that TMI web shows the file that some of these engines were originally built with.
 
biggy238 said:
And fls/fts.

As for 800hp acerts from a dealer, all it takes is for the truck to go down at another dealer and a whole **** storm brews. I can see doing that for a local truck, but it's asking for trouble on an over the road.
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I once drove a truck 400 miles with a split injector tip to get back to said dealer for work. Ex-Boss man had his truck towed about 700 for same reason. They are a full service Cat dealer so they walk over to the industrial parts dept and order the marine cam and injectors and get them delivered 200' down the driveway at the other end of the building.
 
At least someone will speak to me.
We are in a deal right now where a certain rotating part has to have certain following parts installed to be covered under warranty. The part gets billed separately from the overhaul, installed, and the opt checklist shows it as "inspected" without the use of the additional (needed) parts
 
What is break in procedure on new rebuild and oil type in have herd of John Deere break in oil ?
 
My opinion, load it and keep it loaded, drive it hard but not hot, shorten then first oil change interval by %30
I don't do break in oil voodoo..
 
biggy238 said:
My opinion, load it and keep it loaded, drive it hard but not hot, shorten then first oil change interval by %30
I don't do break in oil voodoo..
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Agreed with this guy.

We load our concrete trucks with gravel and try to drive it hard through town but don't thrash on them. We like the stop and go in town to avoid a constant RPM.
 
lol on my orange truck by the time it had 10k miles I had it back apart again. I like to do full complete oil changes by taking it back apart and putting it back together again. I'm sure some of you guys just take out the plug to drain it and then refill with new. I usually end up swapping entire engines just to be sure it's clean. :lolly:

That or I have a very heavy foot and like HP.:hehe:
 
Same as all the others. 10-12k. Been known to forget and run them 15-20. But I'm not joking about the 10k mile overhauls
 
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