Chains or Straps??

getblown5.9

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For strapping down my truck on the gooseneck. I currently have only used two heavy chains and heavy binders (1 for each axle pulling opposite directions) rated for 16k each (heavy equipment stuff)

This year I will be hauling it alot more and was thinking 4 10k car straps with axle wraps would be easier to strap down...but my old man thinks I am gonna get in trouble with the DOT if I don't start using 4 chains and binders like they require when he hauls heavy machinery for work.

Anyone think that 4 new/properly working 3" wide load staps with axle wraps are not sufficient to strap a 7,400lbs truck to the trailer?
 
The easiest I've seen are the straps that go over each tire.

Kind of like these:
TH31J_LRG.jpg


They make a thicker strap more suited for your truck..It beats the crap out of crawling under the truck to put in the axle wraps.
 
The easiest I've seen are the straps that go over each tire.

Kind of like these:
TH31J_LRG.jpg


They make a thicker strap more suited for your truck..It beats the crap out of crawling under the truck to put in the axle wraps.

I helped dzlfarmboy load his truck with axle straps...took us 5 minutes. My truck with the chain around the axles, avoiding brake lines etc takes close to 30 minutes.
 
I use 2 inch straps all the time for everything, but, you can't beat Grade 70 transport chains as far as strap it down and forget about it is concerned. For crutical stuff like my 10K+ tractor I use chains and those ratcheting binders. They beat the hell out of the break-over type that you have to grab fourteen links before you find the correct one that latches and still holds tight and you need a 6 foot piece of 2 inch pipe to latch them. I'd grab four 70 grade chains. Hook the back two corners down then put the other two on the two front corners and put the binders out towards the edges. That way you can look in your mirrors and see that the binders are still in place and tight as you travel down the road. Hook to the axles (which I'm sure you know). Some hook to the frame. Then when you hit a bump the straps/chains slap because the truck suspension colapses a little. I think there was a thread about that a while back.

DOT can't give you crap for chains. It is better to just do it than stand on the side of the road and have a pissin' contest with Barney Fife. If you want something fast and easy, buy some J-hooks for the end of your chains. Throw them over the axle and go. I have one of these that I use a lot. http://www.awdirect.com/finditem.cfm?itemid=9711
 
TJ attach chain hooks on the rear axle. I have attached mine to the ladder bar mounts. Then I took two u bolts and put them around the front axle with two pieces of angle iron welded together to look like a T. I drilled 4 holes in the wide section of the T and mounted the angle iron to the axle. THen I drilled two holes in the leg of the T and mounted 2(redundant) chain hooks that allow the chain to slide, but have a spring loaded locking closure. I basically pull the truck on the trailer, throw the chain throught the front hooks, back the truck up to pull the chain tight. Then use a boomer on each side of the rear. The only drawback is I have to lay down to get the chain in the front hooks, but other than that it works great.
 
TJ attach chain hooks on the rear axle. I have attached mine to the ladder bar mounts. Then I took two u bolts and put them around the front axle with two pieces of angle iron welded together to look like a T. I drilled 4 holes in the wide section of the T and mounted the angle iron to the axle. THen I drilled two holes in the leg of the T and mounted 2(redundant) chain hooks that allow the chain to slide, but have a spring loaded locking closure. I basically pull the truck on the trailer, throw the chain throught the front hooks, back the truck up to pull the chain tight. Then use a boomer on each side of the rear. The only drawback is I have to lay down to get the chain in the front hooks, but other than that it works great.

I am gonna need pics...I'm lost (which isnt unusual)
 
Give me a few days, and I will get you some. It works well, if I were to change anything I would have gotten a slightly larger hook for the rears. I was trying to save a few bucks. Since you tighten the chain up with the truck it takes most of the guess work out of the flip over binders. Now if you want to get the ratchet ons they are nice, but the flip overs I have were the right price.
 
i have 2 chains and racheting binders now, and also have 4 of those 3" wide car straps...all i'd need is some axle wraps.
 
I have used chains and straps. The straps are easy to work with except in the winter. For lifted trucks, I strap down the body as well as the axles. It definitely keeps the body roll down.
 
I always use chains...but tying a tractor down is much easier than a truck;)

Use whatever you prefer...I like chains because it's simple, and you don't have to worry about cutting one. As far as ratchet binders...unless I'm hauling a dozer, they suck. To hard to get them tight with rubber tires compressing...just get a pipe on put the big pull on an over center binder and call it good.

Haven't lost anything like that yet...and I've hauled some hairy loads:D
Chris

BTW Dan...I like that idea...might have to figure something like that out for my truck!
 
I helped dzlfarmboy load his truck with axle straps...took us 5 minutes. My truck with the chain around the axles, avoiding brake lines etc takes close to 30 minutes.

Yeah but you still had to climb under the truck to throw the Axle straps on, with the over the tire strap there is no climbing under for anything. One for each tire an no climbing walk up to it as it's on the trailer and strap it down. Your done, less than 2 min. per tire.
 
I have always used chains and the pull over the center binder, quicker than the ratchet binder and I am more comfortable with chains than straps. Straps can wear and then you have to get a new one, I have had a brand new one break on me a few times on the first load. I would recomend getting two more chains and four over the center binders with a cheater pipe. You could still use axle straps if you want with the chain to get over the alxe easier, you just need to have some shackels for them. The two hold just fine but if one ever breaks, and chains usually give no warning, the load will start bouncing all over the trailer. Just my $.02
 
if you use chains, DOT requires 4 point on vehicles.
straps must be rated properly for the weight of the truck.

and when you said your dad uses 4 chains on equipment, i hope you are talking about tractors because a backhoe now must be 6 pointed (front bucker, two on each side front, two on each side rear, one on rear bucker).

i have gotten an unlimited amount of tickets for this haha.

now actually TX DOT reuires 7 chains & boomers on a backhoe (7th one goes from out rigger to outrigger).

just keep using chains. straps are no bueno.
 
i meant bobcats and small exacvators, stuff less than 10k mostly

and anything i do will be better then some guys i know who went wheeling this weekend with their jeeps...

225918.jpg
 
I always use chains...but tying a tractor down is much easier than a truck;)

Use whatever you prefer...I like chains because it's simple, and you don't have to worry about cutting one. As far as ratchet binders...unless I'm hauling a dozer, they suck. To hard to get them tight with rubber tires compressing...just get a pipe on put the big pull on an over center binder and call it good.

Haven't lost anything like that yet...and I've hauled some hairy loads:D
Chris

BTW Dan...I like that idea...might have to figure something like that out for my truck!

I will post pics in a few days.
 
for my tractor and cars and trucks..we always use 3" ratchet straps that are rated at 10k each. never had any issues with DOT and cannot say anything about the legalities of straps vs. chains.

but yes straps can be cut..but if used properly, meaning using an axle strap if necessary they are great..keep them well lubricated and they are excellent. I wont use chains..they make me nervous..espically when using binders..

I worked at O'Neal Steel and used to watch the guys chain down the loads and watched the breaker bar come off the binder and bust their ass real bad..also saw one pop back up and hit the driver in the mouth.
 
when the break bars (cheater pipes) come off, it is because the user doesn't have it on properly haha.

i lost one once. it flew a good 20 feet. now i make sure it is on correctly.
 
I have nerver lost a cheater pipe, we have a 6 footer on our semi trailer back home for booming down the pulling tractor, lets just say that you don't want that thing coming back on you. I agree as long as you put it on properly and boom properly you will not get hurt or loose a boomer or cheater pipe.
 
J hooks rule

I have been running chains with J-hooks for about 3 years now, and I have gotten all of my buddies to either switch, or want to.(poodot I swear ill order yours tomorrow! LOL) And good luck getting them back if you let them borrow them.. You can get them in like a 9in reach hook, and a 15in long reach. It takes me about 3 to 4 minutes to lock everything down, all 4 corners, and the truck aint commin off PEROID! its super easy to not hit brake lines, and calipers , and you can put it in the exact same spot on the trailer every time if you use two without binders, and two with. Just pull up....put on the front hooks....back up till there tight....and lock down the rear....done, lets haul ass. Straps are good for wood, tubing for a role cage, but chains are where its at... My 3 cents...

seriously Brian... im going to order your chains tomorrow....ya right..:shake:
 
i meant bobcats and small exacvators, stuff less than 10k mostly

and anything i do will be better then some guys i know who went wheeling this weekend with their jeeps...

225918.jpg

Probably had the winch pulling it tight in the front... :bang Kills me to see people use the winch as a hold down. Dont even want to be on the same trail, much less the highway with these people...AHHHHH
 
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