Chains or Straps??

[WYODodge]

E-Track

I haul X-Ray Equipment in my Peterbilt, and I use nothing but E-Track Straps from Grainger. Never had a problem, and that stuff can get heavy too.

Some older transformers are 6k plus on casters so all the weight is not stationary on the floor, it is live.

E-Track is one of the greatest inventions to ever come into the tranportation industry. [IMHO]

I bought and installed 40 feet of it [4-10 foot sticks] in the enclosed trailer I bought and used to move back to the Lower 48 from AK. I welded those in place and trusted every inch of them. Will use them again if I ever get another enclosed trailer.

On the other side, I HAVE seen some E-Track that was NOT welded nor was it secured very well with fastners... I would not have trusted this; I would expect better coming from a brand new trailer still on the dealer lot.

I do have one question... Why were these transformers on casters?

 

[getblown5.9]

A little update. I've hauled my truck about half a dozen times now on the new trailer and its working great. On the front I still use the nice sturdy stake pockets for attaching the chains, and on the rear due to the fold flat ramps I can not chain straight back to anything on the outside, so I am crossing the chains to some 18k weld-on D-rings located between the ramps. This set up has worked flawlessly and the chains have never gotten loose or the truck moved at all even in 1600 miles to Ky and back.

Also I am using 4-3/8" chains I think rated to 20k each, and 4- binders rated at 9200lbs each.

Also found out that if I leave my suspension blocks in while towing, not allowing the truck to have any bounce while on the trailer gives me a ride that nobody could deal with. It will make the trailer bounce so bad you can chip your teeth, but I found that issue and now I know not to leave my blocks in.

 

[getblown5.9]

Don't mind the chains, i wrap the extra around the binder and then bungee cord them to keep them from rattling on the trailer.

 

[zstroken]

PUt hooks on the axles, so you can just drop the chains in them, instead of wrapping around the axles. I have two ubolts on the front axls with two hooks, throw the chain in the hook, back the truck up, then binder the back two chains

 

[getblown5.9]

ill get to it, just been busy with other stuff and work.

i did it solo here this morning and it took me 15-20 minutes to get loaded with no help and 9 times out of 10 I have my buddy travis or my old man helping me with the chains.

 

[nitrogen]

the straps over the tires are cheap and easy, however in the long run they can lead to brinneling in the wheel bearing beause unlike pulling from the frame there is no tension on the bearings. this allows the roller to vibrate against the races. look at your straps they should have a DOT tag. so long as you use appropriately rated straps and they are placed so that the load cannot move to either side or front rear there is nothing for an inspector to complain about. chains also have to be used within their WLL to be legal. chains are heavy messy and bulky, and while tough they can be damaged too.with a little effort you could mount clevis to the frame somewhere near each corner of the truck. all you would need to do then is use the 2 or3 inch straps and it really shouldn't take much time or effort to tie down. front straps pull back, back straps pull forward and left pulls to righr etc