elect water pump

JerrodGlover said:
Joe, Check your grounding. A bad ground will cause huge amp draw.
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Ok, silly question. Does the alternator ground anywhere separately or is it just the two huge grounds from each battery to the block?

Who made the original and why haven't we heard about it?
 
Ihave seen it out there but for $400+ I don't need to circulate whater that bad after the pass I can just let the eng run for 5 min insted
 
joefarmer said:
Ok, silly question. Does the alternator ground anywhere separately or is it just the two huge grounds from each battery to the block?

Who made the original and why haven't we heard about it?
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ground strap from engine to frame is the alt. ground to the batteries. Enterprise engine has had these pumps for over a year on their website.
 
MADDOG said:
I think this should read "there is a new source that copied this pump, and we are going to stick it to the people that put all the time and money to build it by slashing the price":badidea:

BTW, I have been running the original for over a year, and it works great.
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Ido believe that a reasonalbe pricing level needs to be there for all vendors to be able to be profitable. But competition is king in this country..... Look at the airlines, if you only had one choice prices would skyrocket.

As for a copied pump, how do you knw it is exactly like the one EE offers? Who knows maybe this one is better qua;ity or worse. Bottom line is consumers have a choice just like with fueling boxes, injectors, intakes, etc.

I have nothing to gain from this pump I just thought I would make guys aware of different otions out there.
 
JerrodGlover said:
Lower prices are rarely companied with higher quality.
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Economics govern it all. Remember when the b1 chargers came out. Big $$ and no warranty, look what is out now? There is so much markup money in the diesel performance that you are seeing everyone enter the business.
 
exept when over priced to start with, there is no more enginering in these than the ones for gasser's and are between $150 and $375 even for the meziere and there is ton's more work to make one of them
 
Looks like I need to step in here, First this pump in not a copy of anyones, I never saw the the EEP pump. Look at all of the other companys selling electric water pump, I guess that they are all copied from the manufacture that made the first one. Did company "A" build the first one, and company "B,C,D" copy them ? Yes the design may look the similar,but there are only so many ways to put a electric motor on to a specific piece of material in a specfic place.
I know who makes the pump for EEP, and they make great products. As far as theprice go's, when I started this project I contacted 3 major companys that make electric water pumps about the idea. 1 company said that they could'nt help me because they have a similar item.(EEP-?) The other 2 gave me quotes that were very close incost. I picked a mfg and had them made.

(I don't feel comfortable with the next part)
I was contacted by the person that made the EEP pump. He asked for a price, I pm'ed him back with a price, then I got more pm's from him. He asked why I was selling this product so cheap ? I stated that I was selling it for a fair market value, He than stated that fair market value is $500.00, since there are no other ones out there. Yes I could sell it for $500.00, but I don't feel that that would be fair for the customer (I don'y need to put my kid though collage on 1 pump)

As far as a beter pump, I don't know. I will say the motor is 1 or 2 steps above the motor on the other pump. Motors come from the same source. Also look at the motors they are different,along with the mounting plate, and the impeller.

One more thing, look at the other stuff avalible for our trucks, the price for stuff is all over the place. Arp studs for a 12v-from $390 to $560, why the big difference ?


Sorry for the rambling

scot
 
Oil-burner, very well said. Look at the money people are paying for some of the items. The same thing has happened in other markets. Steel, auto, housing, I really think the last one is gonna lift the accelerator that is on the diesel market.
 
Jetpilot said:
There is a new source for these and the price is around $200 cheaper than they currently are!

Doug
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I knew some heat was comming on this.When the dual HPOP for the 7.3's came out with simular design there was & still is a bunch of trash talk!But the big co's do it all the time & we end up with a better product & or reduced price.Like was mentioned there is only so much you can do with something in that space unless you want to do like the old Moroso's did with a motor & a cog belt which would be stupid.Where would the gas hot rods be now if they all had that design,outdated!If you look at this thing I am supprised it is not $199!Not much to it.:pop:
Burner clear some PM's,Full!
 
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if you were worried bout running all the electroincs (cooling fans, h2o pump, fass,etc) would it be helpful to put in a capacitor like the high end stereo systems? i know they kept my buddies headlights from dimming when the subs hit hard.
 
Capacitors add to the problem.

Capacitors need to be refilled after they are discharged. Look at a camera flash, its not a steady beam of bright light, its a surge of energy. Then it takes a little bit before its able to be used again. Stereo capacitors recharge faster when playing audio because amp draws arent typically constant so they recharge in between pulse draws. In the case of these trucks and using them like that, they would actually ADD more draw to an already taxed charging system. To run those type of constant draw electrical items you need more charging output.
Chris
 
Why not just upgrade to a better alternator for your charging system needs,like the Mean-Green 200amp low rpm deal.I have one and had eliminated any charging system woes with it.They are not cheap,but are a high quality and well built?.......Andy
 
If your really concerned about this in a pull truck, I would run deep cycle batteries. Keep them charged when not pulling. If your on highway use, charging shouldn't be an issue, it is sitting the truck letting it idle and have all of the power sources draining. Somewhere I read in this thread about a bad ground causing high current readings. That is incorrect, unless it was verified with an ammeter. More than likely what happened was the bad connection got hot from the resistance of the connection, which melted/burned something, then it was assumed a the melt burn was from high current.
 
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