F250/Cummins Swap

Ordered an entire bag of those zip ties to pretty much use two of them.

I went and got a set of washers. I don't like the thought of the poly bushing on the DCS mounts pressuring down into the slots in the mount.

Ye old AN fittings for the trans lines.
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Eh. It was supposed to have sparkles in the paint, but that was a giant failboat.

It didn't occur to me that ATS was that color. Oh well.

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looking through your build thread i see you work at our local whayne dealer, I am currently building an 06 f350 with 5.9 cr. have you used the anteater stc before as i see that's what your going to be using? I have been reading up on it but not dead set on it yet
 
I'm a beta tester for the Anteater. I put about 40k miles on this one in my dodge, and it will be installed in the Ford and run again.

PM sent your way.

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Went kind of ape **** tonight. Drove the truck in at 5. Had the Cummins in the frame at nine pm. Cross member will need to be modified for the wider Chrysler trans mount. Got rust under the cab to clean up. Power steering hose from the gas PS setup also fits the trw Powerstroke pump so that was a score.

Jackasses at rhino liner (previous owners doing) put bed spray on the bed mount bolts. They will have to be torched out.

Should have the airdog installed tomorrow and have some indication of what I'm going to do to the fuel pump module. I wanted to do a B&W turnover ball but it's not in the cards for this weekend.

The GDP intake horn has a high probability of being a cluster **** because of its proximity to the abs pump. I this a 30-45 degree silicon boot might correct it though.
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Oh yeah, I fabricated spreaders to fit our wheel lifts to lift the cab. Had 4" flat stock broken into U's and then when we found the balance point of the cab, I pulled it all off and burned it in.

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I didn't take pictures, but I got under the cab today and stripped the rust and then primered it.

I also murdered my crossmember (only a little). I initially thought that I could just widen the distance on the same center as the Ford trans mount. In reality, the Ford mount is offset, and was throwing the trans and engine out of place.

I eye-balled it, and the driver side ford slot needed to stay, and an additional slot added on the passenger side. This puts the tail of the trans where it needs to be for the Tcase to clear the frame, and also puts the center of the fan hub at 19.5" from the outside of each frame rail.

I also noticed that the DCS engine mounts are out of plane from one another. You can see the difference in rake from front to rear.
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My 'Help' (slave drivers) insisted that we were stripping rust and painting the frame. The last thing we did last night was pressure wash thoroughly.
Hit it again at 7am this morning. I hit about 10 more rusty spots under the cab this morning and primered them.
Then we undercoated all of the cab floor.

We welded up the trans crossmember to leave only the two needed slots and then painted it.

I picked a place for the airdog and schemed on how to use the OEM lines and pickup.

We sat the engine for the last time and connected the power steering hose at around noon.

We removed the last of the gasser exhaust from the hanger isolators and tried to install the JAMO exhaust. They welded the mounts on the over axle hump incorrectly so that will need to be fixed to go on with the exhaust. The downpipe needs to change to move away from the frame so I'll have that done at the same time.

You can also see the mag-hytec pan is on in that picture.

I flipped the power steering pressure line to bow to the rear. After we set the cab, I think I'm going to pull it back to the front.

Parts stores don't want to sell the nylon seal that goes on the pressure line.

Between the engine weight change and new poly cab mounts, the fenders sit over an inch higher above the tires.

I'm going to be using a 6.0 Ford engine fan with dodge electronic hub. We cut the 5.4 fan shroud to a diameter of about 24.25". The 6 liter fan is roughly 23.25.

I'm going to fit all of it before I try to go larger on the opening.
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We had a surplus of duplicolor undercoat from a school bus warranty repair. We dumped about 4 cans. I still have to do the bed. I set fire to the bed liner. Turns out rhinoliner reacts to oxygen and heat the same way grease does.

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Was out reflecting on what needs to be done this week and spotted this.

I vaguely remember something I read stating there was an issue. Maybe the thread on pirate. I will have to decide whether to use a button head screw or omit it completely. I'm not entirely certain that the frame side mounts don't need to be repositioned just a tad.
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