FASS is consistant.

RonA

RonA

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Feb 26, 2008
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Installed FASS #6 on the truck so i would have a backup when #5 dies. #5 has been on a bit over a year but was only used on the dyno or at the track so probably had about an hour on it before putting the 6.7 in and then ran constant for 300 miles so maybe 10 hours total run time. Noticed a bit of heat sign where the inline fuse was and took it apart to see this. Still works despite the damage.
 

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Why go through all of it? unless there is some kind of sponsorship tie I don't see why you don't use a waterman? I know you had one up for sale a while back... did you have issues with it?
 
I would have loved to use the waterman pump. It wouldn't fit unless i found another location for the radiator or ran with no fan(even an electric fan wouldn't fit).
 
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My old FASS HPFP did the same thing....I cut it out and put a circuit breaker in it. I'll never run another FASS or Airdog until I stop seeing stuff like this.

Chris
 
My old Fass pump locked up after only a year and less that 10,000 miles. That was on the old DD that had an easy life. My Airdog now is over 3 years old with zero issues.
 
i dont understand why a much larger gauge wire is not used. atleast a 10ga, even 8 will alleviate the heat problems in the connectors and fuses.
 
With a boost referenced regulator do I remove the overflow valve and run a regular banjo fitting to the regulator and then on to the inj return line and tank, or do you set the ofv up so it's at a low number(like 10-15psi) and then hook the regulator to that so the ofv just acts like a check valve so you don't loose prime? I am thinking that if I set it up so i only see 28-30psi at light throttle(where i usually drive) and have it ramp up from there only when needed, the pumps might last longer. I'm willing to try about anything to get this to quit happening.
 
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Four years on a mechanical, belt driven. Bought spare belts and the original still looks like new.
 
Im also on the mechanical Bandwagon, I just can't afford failure, I'm sure im not the only one
 
RonA said:
With a boost referenced regulator do I remove the overflow valve and run a regular banjo fitting to the regulator and then on to the inj return line and tank, or do you set the ofv up so it's at a low number(like 10-15psi) and then hook the regulator to that so the ofv just acts like a check valve so you don't loose prime? I am thinking that if I set it up so i only see 28-30psi at light throttle(where i usually drive) and have it ramp up from there only when needed, the pumps might last longer. I'm willing to try about anything to get this to quit happening.
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I can't say how my fuel system is going to work, but I'm setting it up with a torktek overflow valve out of my inj pump, the fass has an external regulator inline with the return line of the fass pump, the regulator will be boost referenced so I'm hoping that at idle and normal driving conditions the inj pump will see default psi from the fass pump. Then when boost comes on my regulator closes off the fass return forcing more fuel to the injection pump thus raising pressure. It works in my head but have not gotten my 4BT back into my Dakota to try it yet.
 
It's tough to run a mechanical on this. No port in the block for a piston pump. No room in front for one drive off the power steering unless i make a new plug that has a shaft and pulley sticking out and mount the pump way off to the side. If I make one that can mount on the front cover like that the guys making the covers could probably incorporate the holes into the cover so others could do it.
 
RonA said:
With a boost referenced regulator do I remove the overflow valve and run a regular banjo fitting to the regulator and then on to the inj return line and tank, or do you set the ofv up so it's at a low number(like 10-15psi) and then hook the regulator to that so the ofv just acts like a check valve so you don't loose prime? I am thinking that if I set it up so i only see 28-30psi at light throttle(where i usually drive) and have it ramp up from there only when needed, the pumps might last longer. I'm willing to try about anything to get this to quit happening.
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I set mine up with no overflow valve, then set the regulator where I want it, in the return line. Let it be the overflow.

If you want to go easy on the pump, set it at 25psi or so, and boost reference it up to 40-45psi with regulated boost to the fuel pressure regulator.

Clear as mud Ron?
Chris
 
I've seen some pretty sharp installs off the crank with the pump under, the big fluid damper does make that a bugger too though. Any one I've talked to locally running electric's is never on their first pump.

To shorten the responses those who are on the first pump, whats the trick? LOL.

Lowering the pressure and ramping it with boost does seem sound, but that is kind of chicken before the egg... when you want to hit the roll hard seems to me I want the pressure before the hit.
 
Joesixpack said:
I've seen some pretty sharp installs off the crank with the pump under, the big fluid damper does make that a bugger too though. Any one I've talked to locally running electric's is never on their first pump.

To shorten the responses those who are on the first pump, whats the trick? LOL.

Lowering the pressure and ramping it with boost does seem sound, but that is kind of chicken before the egg... when you want to hit the roll hard seems to me I want the pressure before the hit.
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That's easy....crank the pressure before you strap it on the rollers....

I was only ever on my first HPFP, but it melted the wires on a dyno run, and I did away with the fuses then. Sold the truck a few months later....who knows if it's still on there now.

Chris
 
This is how much room I have to work with in front.
 

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Try a areomotive a1000. Build a regulated return with a boost activation. You can call me and i can give you details if you want. I have had good luck with them.
 
Sure looks like a gear pump of some sort could be fitted to the timing cover. It would be marketable that's for sure.
 
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