Got her dropped!

drive it with the 67 yet?

There was a slight mix up somewhere, and the new elbow I need is still on the way. But its ok I guess, we are 1 day into a 3 day snowstorm, so I can't use it anyways. I picked a hell of a time to throw those directionals on LOL

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i have a flip kit for the ass end to get real low...just remember fat chicks cant jump

Lol. The rear would be 3in lower, except I already flipped the rear shackle for the lift! Im leaving it as is though, for the softer ride. I could go 4" lower in the rear right now if I went back to stock with no block. But i can only lower the front another 2in and then frame bump stop hits axle, and track bar hits the tie rod and toe bar.

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it looks good. im trying to find a quad cab 1500 short bed and go full air and my driveline
 
Can't, keeps other cars next to me afraid.

Boards are getting moved up under the rockers, still want them for protection.
"Drop" bumper is getting trimmed down, and painted. I still need that for protection from dirty biker gangs.

Fixed :hehe:
 
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We couldn't get you to go after a woman!LOL

really?

and now im thinking of trying some 2wd coils, to go another inch or 2 lower. Anyone know if they are the same width as 4wd springs? I just really want to tuck the tires more so they dont look so small.

edit: Nevermind. I think the control arms would be too high then, and would get stopped on the frame mounts.
 
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Nevermind, there appear to be different widths for 2wd springs. I need the 4.03" ones. I found stock ones that compress to 11", which would be 2" lower than where I'm at now. Looks like I have some measuring to do.
 
Dont forget to check/reset the pinion angle after your done lowering it. It effects the launch more that most people would think.
 
Dont forget to check/reset the pinion angle after your done lowering it. It effects the launch more that most people would think.

Talking for front or rear? It still drives normal, but I'm not sure what I should be looking for now LOL
 
Talking for front or rear? It still drives normal, but I'm not sure what I should be looking for now LOL

He's talking about possible binding angles. If your angles are not true it will bind sort of speak and slow you down, doesn't mean it will break but cause unwanted friction.
 
He's talking about possible binding angles. If your angles are not true it will bind sort of speak and slow you down, doesn't mean it will break but cause unwanted friction.

Oh yeah, I know about that. But I didn't know that lowering it/making the driveshaft more level could bind also. I figured length of the driveshafts would be the issue.
 
Check both. Should be about 3 degrees down on the pinion (rear). That will be a good starting point. Do you have a traction bar of any type?
 
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Check both. Should be about 3 degrees down on the pinion (rear). That will be a good starting point. Do you have a traction bar of any type?

Ok I know the front one is still more than 3*, and the rear looks around 10*, but I'll get exact measurements.

I am running home made traction bars, but i took them off for now until I get the ride height settled. Just standard design, a bar from the axle to the frame, about 7ft long. Well, shorter now I suppose lol.
 
I have a plan. If I can modify my current track bar bracket, or make a new one, I can lower the front another 2in and start running 2wd springs/shocks. Make life easier. And this would give me a 5/5 drop.

Is there any risk of the front drive shaft being too long and binding with the truck dropped that far?

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Mike,

Althougha 3rd gen, Im looking to do something very similar to my mega cab. Are you cutting the stock coils or purchasing aftermarket from somewhere?

Thanks,
Frank
 
Mike,

Althougha 3rd gen, Im looking to do something very similar to my mega cab. Are you cutting the stock coils or purchasing aftermarket from somewhere?

Thanks,
Frank

For now im cutting stock coils until I settle on a final compressed height, hopefully 2wd height. Then I can run 2wd springs and shocks.

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