HE351VE on a VP44 truck

does anyone know if the fleece controller reads boost or throttle position? u dont just turn a knob while your trying to drive right?
 
Can you tell me how far it is from the center of the arm on the turbo to the center of the wastegate actuator? I really like this setup, just came up with a turbo today.
 
Im getting ready to do this on my truck. I have the turbo and manifold apart on the workbench. What kind of weld did you use to comebine the exhaust housings? I was going to mig it with .035 and c25 gas. What did you use?

Do you use the complete travel of the vane collar or is it restricted?

Will the lower i/c pipe and boot work or will I need another?

Ive looked at your video at least 30 times in the past 2 weeks, and It looks like you welded allthread onto the w/g actuator rod, and then used the lock nuts for the spring. Is the spring suppose to control boost also or is that for the Ebrake?

Thanks for your time
 
my collar is restricted and totally adjustable. too far open without enough fuel and you wont have enough boost. too tight and you'll have poor spool up/too much back pressure.
 
I used Mig welder for the exhasut elbows.

like sooter said, you have to restrict the vane travel. i dont have much fuel and only use a very small part of the travel. (using stop screw on wide open.)

The closed portion of the vanes is held in place by the length of the wastegate rod. The spring is only used to override semi closed position to EB mode.
i have seen a problem a few times with this. when i drive the truck hard, than all of a sudden let go of the throttle, while turbo barks, it'll snap closed (eb mode)
letting go of the throttle once and applying again, it opens back up. maybe a stiffer spring would help, but than my little servo motor cant do its work.

The intercooler pipe wont work, i had to modify my own.
 
What type of wastgate actuator did you use, and what was the spring you used to modify it? I have one off an hx35 do you think that would work? Also do you have a part number for the exhaust brake actuator? I'm getting ready to do mine and I like the way you made yours and I think I will try and copy it.
 
toyota231 said:
What type of wastgate actuator did you use, and what was the spring you used to modify it? I have one off an hx35 do you think that would work? Also do you have a part number for the exhaust brake actuator? I'm getting ready to do mine and I like the way you made yours and I think I will try and copy it.
Click to expand...

No modifications to the WG actuator needed... Here's a schematic of how I set my 451 up (A 351 needs to move the arm the other way, but by switching the directions of the WG actuator and the linear actuator it would work, this is mostly for an idea of how to set it up)

VGTcontrolwithactuator.jpg


Also, I shot a video of how smooth my housing opens with drive pressure. It also shows how I set up my linear actuator and the like. I can find the part numbers for everything I used if you like, otherwise I think I posted them in my thread...

Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHmrT0GgTcA

Thread:

Anybody else get a good look at the new comp wheels on the Holset turbos??? - Page 11 - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

The link to the linear actuator I used is in post# 206... Otherwise there is a lot of good reading in there too. Good luck and welcome to CompD :Cheer:
 
Thanks for the welcome and the info. I've been lurking for a little while just reading but now that I got my turbo its time to get info. I'm gonna read your thread and keep studying. If I need anything ill ask. Thanks again.
 
Blackskyracing, do you happen to have a part number for that actuator? I have been trying to think of a way to set up an actuator for cruising on the highway, as it seems that it would be best to open the collar up a little when cruising in order to lower boost and remove a little restriction on the exhaust side of things.
Thanks,
Brett
 
bna5017 said:
Blackskyracing, do you happen to have a part number for that actuator? I have been trying to think of a way to set up an actuator for cruising on the highway, as it seems that it would be best to open the collar up a little when cruising in order to lower boost and remove a little restriction on the exhaust side of things.
Thanks,
Brett
Click to expand...

It's on the link posted above for my thread, post #206...

That's what I did with my housing on my way down to florida and back. Worked pretty good, I could change my boost anywhere from 20psi down to 5psi cruising at 80mph :Cheer: I averaged a little over 20mpg the whole trip and I even had a trailer on behind on my way home.

Oh and a bonus of opening the housing when cruising in town is that I noticed I could actually hear my exhuast again :hehe:
 
Since im using a servo motor for the exhaust brake, i can close the "wide open stop" by small increments...

so having it closed down more then i usually have i was able to hit 37psi on level 0 (checked on adrenaline datalogger)

and on level 6 i hit 47 psi closing it down a lil bit more.
as i opened it back up while at WOT, i think i felt the truck accelerating faster, so i believe at that point it was a restriction actually...
 
joshyak said:
Anyone have an unneeded stock HE351VE actuator sitting around? I could use one for my own controller project. Please contact me at joshyaksich@hotmail.com
Click to expand...

this guy is EVERYWHERE i had six emails in my box yesterday just from stuff he had posted on every forum. back to the point, we all have one laying around but we also know that the reason these turbos are so plentiful is that the electronics fail so they most likely would not do you any good anyway. Im sure there is somebody somewhere that will sell you a none functioning actuator for X number of dollars but the rest of us are a bit more honest than that, for the most part, ok maybe not. SO how much do you got?
 
yeah i noticed!

I might be able to get new electronic actuatros for cheap though!

There is a place close by that sells brand new he351ve's for like $300 and a couple of buddys have taken off the electronics to set it up with pneumatics..
 
Im really worried about barking it. Ive got just about all the materials to do it, but the thought keeps crossing my mind of braking the shaft. The turbo spools so quickly because its got to be spinning that shaft high rpms almost all the time and using the vanes to control boost. Correct me if im wrong. A buddy has one on his truck, and that thing spins for almost minute after he shuts it off.

My truck has DDP 150s HRVP44 and 5spd. I seem to take forever to spool it with the stock hx35 but once it lights shes gone. Does it seem like too much injector for that HE351ve?
 
depends how you drive it. realistically they're only good to around 400hp or so. you can push them over 500hp of course, but the lack of a wastegate is a problem.
 
sooter said:
depends how you drive it. realistically they're only good to around 400hp or so. you can push them over 500hp of course, but the lack of a wastegate is a problem.
Click to expand...

That housing opens up pleanty big... I laid down 422/903 with my 451 that basically has the same wheel/shaft combo but with a 29cm housing (limited to open only about halfway) and my pyro never went over 1250* and there was ZERO smoke once it was up on top of the turbo. Either way it's lightyears ahead of that poor HX35 LOL

I wouldn't really worry about barking it, it takes a little fine tuning, but there is a happy medium between quick spool up and constantly barking the turbo... You could also add a linear actuator like I did to my 451 and set it up to where the wastegate actuator still opens the housing automatically, but the linear actuator controls how far it can close down.

EDIT: I actually explained my set up and posted a schematic as well as a video on this page in post #48 :Cheer:
 
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