Help truck wont start!!!

chris p

chris p

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Nov 12, 2012
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Just got done with a total rebuild of the engine trans and did some mods along the way. Got everything back in the truck and she wont start. Ive checked everything i can think of and still nothing. I need to get the truck running like 3 days ago. haha any help is greatly appreciated hopefully some one will be able to help on christmas eve. Heres the break down.

Things that changed/upgraded from when it ran last.
1)Fass system (bought it used didnt come with a harness so I made one. Truck had been converted to an in tank lift pump so the dealer had put a pig tail from the stock block mounted LP location to a relay on the fire wall. I cut the pig tail from the relay and wired it to the coil side of my relay for the fass. It wouldn't click the relay on so i measured voltage and was only getting 8.65V when it was hooked to the dealer installed relay it would click constantly on and off.) Is there something wrong with the LP circuit from the ECM? I wired the relay to a switch in the cab and totally did away with using the pig tail out of the harness for the factory LP on the block. Does the ecm need that to be hooked up for some reason?
2) Pin # 11 on the ECM C2 (G7 18WT/OR) Had to be repaired as the previous owner had a short in the harness and ran a new wire from the ECM into the harness across the firewall.
3) Total motor strip down and rebuild. ECM and harness was completely disconnected. (wondering if I have a bad ground somewhere or something not hooked up properly.) (Saw this thread on diesel bombers, guy said he had a ground in the wrong place. 2005 engine rebuild wont start - Diesel Bombers)

Things I've done already.
1) checked for fuel at cp3 supply line from fass
2)checked for fuel at the rail (cracked injector lines 1/2-3/4 turn and got fuel seeping out of the lines.) also cracked the banjo on the top of the pressure relief valve didnt get any fuel out of it while cranking but some did bubble out a few seconds after stoping cranking. I loosened the valve itself from the rail and tightened the banjo again, got more fuel volume out of the cracked rail to valve connection than the cracked valve to banjo connection.
3)pulled the valve cover to ensure none of the injector wires were touching the rockers
4)checked tank return (getting a small trickle of fuel with the fass running but not cranking the motor, cant tell if its any more when cranking because I'm working on it alone.
5) checked the FCA harness ( turned ignition on, unplugged the harness from the FCA and put a test light between the two terminals, waited 20 sec and it flashed doing a self check)
6)pluged in the smarty and checked codes got a **** ton the first time, but i think it was just because everything had just been unhooked.
1st time I got 0628,0533,0480,0251,0837,0524(x2),0483,0646,0107,0073, and a crank position sensor code too but dont remember the #. Cleared the codes and tried cranking again to see what would pop back up all I get now its 0628 (fuel pump relay circuit low/ lift pump control circuit low.) and 0480 (cooling fan 1 control circuit open (low speed fan relay)

Any ideas guys? FCA bad? leaky feed tubes? Im lost at this point.

Merry Christmas, Chris
 
I got most of those codes when I accidentally disconnected the batteries with the key on
 
But if your getting fuel to your cp3 but not to the rail...I'd say there's something wrong with your cp3 or something's telling it not to pump, possibly the rp sensor or a cam or crank sensor. Btw don't crack any injector lines while trying to crank, i think it's like 5000 psi in there while cranking and jumps to 17000 or so at idle. That will shoot out with enough force to penetrate your eye and go into your brain
 
chris lang said:
But if your getting fuel to your cp3 but not to the rail...I'd say there's something wrong with your cp3 or something's telling it not to pump, possibly the rp sensor or a cam or crank sensor. Btw don't crack any injector lines while trying to crank, i think it's like 5000 psi in there while cranking and jumps to 17000 or so at idle. That will shoot out with enough force to penetrate your eye and go into your brain
Click to expand...
Haha very descriptive on the fuel in the eye deal! But to clarify, maybe I mixed up my words. I am getting fuel at the rail. I think the rails only at around 500 when cranking and around 6800 at idle but still. Any other thoughts? Feed tubes leaking or injectors leaking? Anyone have a ground wiring diagram for the harness? I have a feeling it might just be a bad gorund issue.
 
Are all the feed tubes tight and seated in the injectors? After you crank it, can you hear the injectors firing (clicking)?
 
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You have two heavy gauge grounds coming from each battery on each side of the block, and 1 or 2 smaller gauge grounds towards the fire wall between the ECM and Trans cooler(auto trans) or the bell housing adapter.

I would check, and recheck the feed tubes for the injectors. Make sure a injector isnt turned around 180* and the feed tube isnt smashed into the back of the body, make sure they are seated properly.

You can text me if youd like.

Bodie
210-391-58won won
 
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SPEEDSHIFT said:
You have two heavy gauge grounds coming from each battery on each side of the block, and 1 or 2 smaller gauge grounds towards the fire wall between the ECM and Trans cooler(auto trans) or the bell housing adapter.

I would check, and recheck the feed tubes for the injectors. Make sure a injector isnt turned around 180* and the feed tube isnt smashed into the back of the body, make sure they are seated properly.

You can text me if youd like.

Bodie
210-391-58won won
Click to expand...
Going to doubel check all the grounds right now and check input voltage at the ECM while cranking, maybe power is dropping off when cranking and the ECM shuts down due to lack of power. You wouldnt happen to know what the minimum voltage the ECM needs to see before it shuts down to save it self would you?
 
I know most things are 5v, but I would make sure the batteries are at full charge no matter what. I honestly doubt it is anything that complicated, prob something fuel related. Like I said, if you can hear the injectors fire, the electrical stuff is pretty much out of the question.
 
So I did as speedshift has suggested and tightened the feed tubes down. But still no dice. Any other ideas guys?! I just need the truck running like now!
thanks in advance everyone!
 
Get a scanner and check for fuel pressure while cranking.

Any smoke while cranking?

Really hard to diagnose without a scanner hooked up if it is a electrical problem.

Are the injectors/feed tubes new?

Tobin
 
No smoke while cranking, Im going to check pressure out of the FASS and make sure its good. What kind of minimum pressure does the cp3 need to it? I really do need a scanner but unless santa brings me one tonight its going to be hard to get in the next few days. I was hoping to have the truck started yesterday and be able to do some break in today I have to go to New Mexico tomorrow.
 
Just checked pressure out of the Fass to be sure. Its holding 25lbs no problem. Is that too much pressure? Would to return in the cp3 just be pumping it to the return?
 
Sorry another random thought. Could my timing on the cam be 180 off? I lined the 0 and the 00 up on the cam and crank. That should be TDC on #1 right? then from there i adjusted Intake valves on cyl #1,2,4 and exhaust on #1,3,5 turned it 360 and did the others.
 
Ok put a gauge on the rail and not getting any pressure (Im sure theres some but the gauge is graduated so high its hard to tell small pressure gains) What do you guys think im up against here? Injectors? (they were working before i pulled the truck apart) Cp3? FCA? I put the gauge in place of the PRV so I know its not leaking pressure. Feed tubes? at this point even bad ideas help so let me know what you guys got! Thanks again for the help.
 
camarokiller said:
Did you try giving it a shot of brake clean to see if it will start on that?
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Kinda scared to give her a shot of anything but I might in the Am just to see if she'll pop over. Then I could rule out timing for the most part and focus on a fuel issue. Im sure the timing is correct I just checked it all out. Ill start the tractor with ether or wd40 but id rather not mess around with my truck like that and fix it right.
 
Brake clean, or wd won't hurt. If it kicks over with that you'll know its fuel related
 
Disconnect or make sure the grid heater is not engaged, try to get it to run off either for 1 or 2 seconds and see if it takes,at times it is necessary for new builds to run for a few seconds on either or some other type of fluid.If you cannot get it to run call Me.
 
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