Help truck wont start!!!

TCDiesel said:
Disconnect or make sure the grid heater is not engaged, try to get it to run off either for 1 or 2 seconds and see if it takes,at times it is necessary for new builds to run for a few seconds on either or some other type of fluid.If you cannot get it to run call Me.
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Ok will do! As soon as We're done with breakfast Ill run out and try it. Would you mind if I called you today if need be?
 
Tried starting her on some Wd-40 and still nothing. At this point i would almost be sure it has to be timing... ?
 
It is timed electronicly. If it were cam timing it would smoke. Its not getting fuel.
 
Is anything in the tone ring questionable? Anything slightly bent or broken can really screw the pooch when trying to get it started.
 
SPEEDSHIFT said:
It is timed electronicly. If it were cam timing it would smoke. Its not getting fuel.
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Right I was just thinking if it was timed tdc on exhaust stroke and not compression. I did get it to start on ether but it wont keep running unless you give it some more help from the bottle. I check out the tone ring but everything looked good when i put it together. I also pulled the cascade overflow valve and unplugged the FCA with the FASS on and it pumped fuel out of the hole on the right side(if sitting in the truck)of the hole the valve screws in to. Then I turned the fass off and had my dad crank it over for a second. It squirted fuel out of the hole in the bottom about 8" or 10". Im still getting a code for the fan circuit. Could this cause a no start?!?
 
Did i mention i tested the injectors with a test light and they are firing while cranking.... yeah WTF?!
 
Well I figured since there are 2 injection events they would be close enough together to heat the filament and ligh the bulb. It worked well just to make sure they were firing. What's the advantage to the logic probe?
 
and i ramble... Just pulled and checked the FCA hooked it to 12v and it actuates no problems. Is there some easy way to test injector return without the Miller tools? What kind of numbers should i be looking for on the return side of things?
 
chris p said:
Well I figured since there are 2 injection events they would be close enough together to heat the filament and ligh the bulb. It worked well just to make sure they were firing. What's the advantage to the logic probe?
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A logic probe doesn't ground your circuit. It lights up red/green depending if you are open/closed or low/high on the circuit. Hince you don't directly ground your ECM injector circuit and let the smoke out if you had a faulty injector solenoid or injector wiring. You never want to let the smoke out. Logic probes do not draw hardly Any amps. Something under 10ma I believe. It basicly tells you that you you have a ground or B+. With out having to switch the test light around. Since a logic probe is connected to both neg and B+.

Also testing any circuit of the ECM with a test light is not a good idea. It's too easy to ground a circuit that should not be grounded.
 
Gibson said:
A logic probe doesn't ground your circuit. It lights up red/green depending if you are open/closed or low/high on the circuit. Hince you don't directly ground your ECM injector circuit and let the smoke out if you had a faulty injector solenoid or injector wiring. You never want to let the smoke out. Logic probes do not draw hardly Any amps. Something under 10ma I believe. It basicly tells you that you you have a ground or B+. With out having to switch the test light around. Since a logic probe is connected to both neg and B+.

Also testing any circuit of the ECM with a test light is not a good idea. It's too easy to ground a circuit that should not be grounded.
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Gotcha! sounds like a good addition to the tool box then. Im going to buy some caps in the AM and cap off injectors 1 by 1 and see if i cant get it to start that way. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
pull your fuel tubes out and check them!! i bet you find one or two not seated properly.
 
khales said:
pull your fuel tubes out and check them!! i bet you find one or two not seated properly.
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Already tightened them down. Im going to try capping injector lines out of the rail, hopefully ill find something that way. Might be time for some new injectors and feed tubes.....
Also I found this article Injector Leak Diagnosis Hes saying the ECM wont fire injectors until its sees rail pressure is at 5000psi. My injectors are firing... so what the deal with that?
 
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1700-2300psi on 2003-04, 2100-2300psi on 2005-2007. Cranking pressure needed.
 
Thanks Todd for all the help on the phone yesterday. Still havent gotten anywhere with the thing. I think im going to pull my injectors and send them off to be tested while I'm off working in New Mexico. Before i tore the truck down it was having issues with long cranking to start when it was hot. Maybe cracked injector body? Id like to send them off and have them tested before I go and blow $$$ on new injectors. Id like to upgrade anyways so this may be a good excuse to do so but moneys tight after the whole build. I know this is a loaded question but what do you guys think about having industrial or F1 rebuild mine with bigger nozzles? Or should i just buy new and have industrial or F1 put nozzles on the new ones.
 
If you start capping until its starts,you will at least isolate the problem.Long cranking when hot does suggest Injectors,But that does NOT explain why it will NOT take off with either.
 
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