Higher Egt's after 178/208 Cam install

First off, besides the egt thing, how does the truck run? Does it run well, just with higher egts and more smoke? Or, did it all go to crap?

Secondly, part of the way that a cam supposedly helps spooling, is to open the exhaust valve earlier so that turbo sees hotter, still expanding exhaust gases sooner than with the later opening stock cam. That being the case, higher egts and more smoke is to be expected. The quicker spool of the turbo is supposed to supply more air sooner to help with the egts and smoke, but it doesn't always seem to work as planned.

Keep in mind too, that even though the temps in the exhaust manifold are higher, it doesn't nessecerily mean that combustion temps in the cylinder are higher than before.

Personally, I've tried a few different cams now. My higher hp engine has an aftermarket cam cause I need the rpms and a beefier cam to turn the IP. But the street engine (650-700hp) I'm currently building will have a stock one in it.
 
Last edited:
This was the only thing done to the truck? No other changes made. I've done. A lot of those drop ins without those results. Did you replace tappets also? I've had quite a few cr come they shop lately and cam and tappets were wasted.
 
Yes truck runs fine. Only difference is the higher egts and increased smoke output. Tappets are all brand new as well. Yes 178/208 cam and tappets were the only thing done to truck. No smoke or haze during accel before and egts (example) 55mph were 600. After cam swap yesterday they were 800-825 at the same speed (55mph).
 
Last edited:
If the cam is openin the exhaust valves sooner and releasing the gases faster wouldn't that mean the compression would be less? Therefore not burning the fuel as efficiently?
 
Yes, and i was told it was more than likely something simple like a boost leak. But after testing twice two different times for leaks and no leaks found anywhere. I dont think its a boost leak. I am leaning more towards tuning needs to be adjusted or a bad cam. I highly doubt the cam is bad. Because the truck runs fine. Just higher than normal smoke output while accelerating and higher than normal egts
 
Last edited:
RDPsmoker said:
How about your EGT at WOT?
Click to expand...

I honestly cant say. I loaded my street tune and smashed the throttle once and egts cliimbed to 1300 and i let out of the throttle. I then was driving to my house and kept noticing abnormal amounts of smoke (haze) during acceleration. I uploaded the tow tune to see if there was any difference. NONE. Egts and accel smoke were still higher than normal. Leaving a stop sign on a tow tune it shouldnt get to 1100 degrees.
 
My cell is 512-525-3628. Call me tomorrow and I'll walk you through some possible causes. I'll need as much before after data as you can come up with. Rail pressure leaks injector issues etc. Are things that might cause this. We will get to the bottom of it.

Zach
 
Thank you, I dont think its on your end though. The truck idles and runs perfect. The cam was degreed in properly. the 0 is in the middle of the two 0's. all the marks lined up and went in perfect. Used new tappets. Zinc break in oil and a healthy amount of engine building grease. or whatever you want to call it. Rail pressure according to the VCM scanner is right where it is suppose to be. I just personally dont have enough knowledge or tools to figure this out myself. Ill give you a call in the morning. Thank you
 
My money is toward the tuning. I had just got my tunes from lavon and they were perfect for my set up. Best the truck ever drove. Then I have a cam swap done. And I know that changed some things, and now the truck is acting as if im running a box smarty tune on level 9 or something like that. The truck is acting like i dont have custom tuning anymore.
 
Last edited:
jlbayes said:
Not trying to be a stick in the mud but that is not degreeing a cam.
Click to expand...

NOt a stick in the mud, thats just what i was told by one of the mechanics that helped on the install. If Hamilton says to install cam exactly like stock cam and you mark everything correctly and 0's were put back exactly like before wouldnt that be installed correctly?
 
On the cam itself there is a key mark and on the cam gear there is a slot that only allows the cam gear to be installed one way. And with the cam gear installed correctly there are two 0's on the gear. And there is one 0 on the crank gear. If the 0 on the crank gear is in the middle of the two 0's on the cam gear doesn't that mean it's correct?
 
I am familiar with the markings. Machining tolerances can vary. Why people degree cams. And the reason it was asked as the centerline can be moved changing all the valve events.
 
Called Hamilton, great service Zach explained to me about changing valve lash lower or higher and check and see if that makes any difference. I will try that next. Just wanted to update for others. I think it's something as simple as tuning. I don't know if I said this before but the truck does clear up in the upper rpm range with no smoke. That's why I said it's acting like I have a heavy fueling box tune on it.
 
Don't believe what the people tell you. Anytime you do a install like this you need to check where the cam is. I've seen keyways off as much as 5* and and one was 10* off which required a tooth jump and was told to set it like stock.
 
Maybe I'm just not getting this. If there is only one way the cam gear can be installed on the cam and your 0's are exactly like stock and Hamilton designed the cam to be installed exactly like stock and all the marks before you took the stock cam out lign up with all the marks when you put the new cam in, wouldn't that be correct?
 
Last edited:
No. They have to cut the little Grove in the front of the cam where the key goes to hold the gear on. Those are almost never in the right spot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top