I think I killed my DTT 47RE

Well. Turns out I didn't even need the shims. I got the end play on the gear group just above the minimum spec. While I was working on the case mod, the accumulator piston fell out, and the smaller diameter seals were damaged and mostly gone.
I went ahead and assembled it as far as I could and then touched up the paint.

I saw a trick on YouTube to tape up the lip seal to compress it and then throw it in the freezer. I'm undecided on whether it's worth the trouble.
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I modified the case to accept a plug for external adjustment of the line pressure. This may not be the most useful thing ever. We will see.
I took a dremel and bur bit to the radius of the case to allow square engagement of a drill bit. I used an 1/8" pilot and then the final bore. I then took the bur bit and cut and addition radius around the new hole. This allowed easier starting on the NPT tap. From there was straight forward. Tap it. Insert the plug. I will try to find some land mark on the outside of the case to use for orientation of where to drill.
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I decided to try to increase the load on the detent for the rooster comb. This took a couple of attempts. The final version is a screw head turned down to the same diameter as the detent spring, and then load it into the (ttansgo?) bullet, and then into the valve body. I did it this way because the head of the screw kept falling below the diameter of the bullet and mechanically locking the rooster comb in whatever position it currently was in.
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Nice, looks like you went with 1/8 npt? Hard to tell from the pics. I just picked up a 47re core for 40 bucks and have another coming for 50. Should be able to get what I need put of them for my fummins build + some billet goodies
 
Yes, 1/8npt is correct.

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I just smeared Vaseline on my seals and walked them in with a pocket screwdriver. The lip wizard would be nice though
 
The lip wizard is nice. I keep mine with all the trans tools and fixtures.

Great idea on adding a port to adjust line pressure. I was never a fan to dropping the pan to make a simple adjustment. I may just copy your idea there.
 
Came in to work to find this. Should be indestructible now.
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On a side note: it pressure checks OK. I'm going to install the valve body and possibly the entire trans tonight.
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Working all day and then finding out I don't have a part or a seal or on and on..... It's fighting me.


It's bolted back in. Leaving for vacation on Friday morning. I don't know if I'll get to drive it home or not.

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biggy238 said:
Working all day and then finding out I don't have a part or a seal or on and on..... It's fighting me.


It's bolted back in. Leaving for vacation on Friday morning. I don't know if I'll get to drive it home or not.

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just giving you a hard time,i know the feeling all to well.the polka dots gotta be worth at least 100hp
 
It's home. 160psi in lockup, 129 degrees one 23 miles. Maybe this will all be behind me for a while.

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Would any of you be able to give me thread pitch and diameter on the mag-hytec drain plug? I think I would like to install a fumoto drain valve

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7/8-14. Ordered a fumoto drain valve on my way home from vacation. Got home last night.
I jumped in the truck to go get lumber for the pool deck. Drove it a miles, went back to the house, left again and made it about 4 miles, turned and went back for face masks. Leave out again and pull out onto a road about a 1/4 mile long. It shifts 1, 2, 3rd felt off. I pull out onto the 4 lane, it shifts 1,2, makes the 2-3 and nothing! No line pressure, no forward or reverse gears. Fluid wasn't hot, looked clear/no debris and I hadn't been over 10% throttle. It is over full, which can be and indicator of a dead pump. Fluid was aerated. I let it sit an hour after towing it home and restarted it with no change in operation.

I can't imagine this being a broken input. I've read suggestions that the relief valve is hung open, or that the filter is plugged. 38 miles seems short for that. I found another thread where the direct drum exploded. I'm skeptical of that one also.
I guess I'm dropping the pan tm as weather permits.

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Fkn a man you can't catch a break with this thing, I'm blaming this one on the polka dots
 
Turning in to a what not to do thread.

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Lol I got out of hand with the fluid dye.

I don't see anything out of place front under the truck. I did notice that the throttle valve is pressed in to the valve body. I'm not sure if they force outward with line pressure.

It's making some noise around the torque converter area. Still no change in engine speed in any gear position.

So I guess I'm down to the pump? Maybe debris in the valve body? I'm guessing a broken input should still show line pressure?
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