Let's see your pullin hitches!!!

Those are nice. Anyone who has worked with metal can appreciate when some nice work has been done....
 
SRDieselScott said:
Ok guys my machine shop has a hitch built for all us pullers and I got the first and it is bad. This hitch is solid steel and weighs 50lbs. It is awesome. We are in the process of making many more. Also working on many more fun items for our pull trucks. PM for more information.

50lbs 48" behind the rear axle isn't the best place for weight. :)

Great looking hitch with lots of adjustment though
 
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SRDieselScott said:
Heres Pictures. Pm if any questions. Thanks Scott[/ATTACH] My old hitch is on the left.

Nice Hitch. Your new one looks just like the one I made in 2006. It worked great with no issues. One thing I did that you might do is off set the mounting holes on the clevis. That way you can flip it over and split your holes on the main hitch for fine tuning your height. Roger
 
zstroken said:
50lbs 48" behind the rear axle isn't the best place for weight. :)

Exactly! Honestly in my opinion if guys are running blocks in the rear and there class has a set hitch height (26") I see no reason to have a ton of adjustment. I built a "reese" style hitch and when my hitch point is at 26" its paralel to the actual hitch. The reciever(clevis) is 8" long and weighs 20Lbs. It alows me to tuck it in right close (being legal having it be the rear most point of the truck) and there is no leverage being put on any drop bar or anything comming down from the hitch. The best part with my setup is that it has almost 4" of adjustment and when I tighted up the clevis it doesn't move for those that say its not alowed to pivot.

RyanB
 
What is the point of one receiver on either side of the main one? New puller :D
 
getblown5.9 said:
i know you had a hitch start to breaking towing a trailer...can you or anyone else post pics showing how to brace and/or add strength to the stock receiver hitch...

i have looked and can not see any easy way to do it, thanks.


Take a 3x3 piece of angle and weld it on top of your existing hitch. From vertical to vertical. Make sure you attach the center of yor existing hitch to this new piece. Where the stock ones fail are they buckle in the middle. I only welded a 3x3 on top of mine and it has been perfect. I even put an extra receiver on top of my old one. So if I run 33" tires I can get my hitch to be the right height. I don't have a hitch with lots of verticle adjustment.
 
thanks buddy, ill do that next weekend while i am putting my roll pan on and building my weight rack and new hitch.
 
Hyde said:
What is the point of one receiver on either side of the main one? New puller :D

are you talking about the trucks like bigbaddodge posted...with the t-bars on each side of the hitch?

those are sled bumpers so the sled doesnt ram the back of the truck and smash it up if something breaks and the truck stops
 
Hyde said:
like in the attachment kat posted on page one

like was said, they slide a "T" or "L" shaped piece in those receivers to the side. They stick out beyond the the bumper (or back of truck if running a roll pan) and take the hit from the sled if a break occurs and the sled can't get stopped before hitting the truck. It's an effort to stop the sled from doing damage to the bumper or bed in the event that they collide.

Hoep that helps.
 
where did you get those rubber pieces? i was thinking of something very much like you have, just didnt know where to get the rubber
 
dmaxlover said:
Made spring 2007
http://competitiondiesel.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6179&d=1199665809

you win!!!thats one pimp hitch!!! nice job.......

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