Looking for recommendations on what to do with hurt cylinder

My bet is material issue that could be unknown to the manufacture. I’m seeing this in my field of work very often sense the middle of 2020.
OEM specs are the same, material suppliers are providing a material that barely meets spec, no one really asks the question because all has been fine for years before. Not blaming the cam grinder or the material supplier. The issue likely traces back to the raw good manufacture. All speculation of course.

On a similar note, someone else on here has suspect cam wear recently. First gen area. I’ll dig around.
 
Here's some close ups of the cylinders. Not sure what you guys would wanna see on the pistons or what I should check. All six have equal scuffing on the skirts, all the ringlands look good. Thought I may see where compression was getting past the rings on number 5 but i didn't see anything. I ordered a bore gauge so I can check my cylinders. Where's the best place to get engine parts these days?
 

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Ball hone those cylinders,.be sure sure you know the correct way to get a good cross hatch.

Which is pump it up and down the bore,.like your old.lady, for 10 to 12 strokes. Keep the hone moving up and down the whole time using a good drill, at a fast pace.

Knock.about .002 off the bores,.which is is good thing, new rings and your back in there.
 
Ball hone those cylinders,.be sure sure you know the correct way to get a good cross hatch.

Which is pump it up and down the bore,.like your old.lady, for 10 to 12 strokes. Keep the hone moving up and down the whole time using a good drill, at a fast pace.

Knock.about .002 off the bores,.which is is good thing, new rings and your back in there.

What grit hone? The dodge service manual said to do a complete stroke in 1 second using 3-400 rpm does that sound right? Also if anybody had the hookup on a Cummins service manual it'd be much appreciated. The dodge one seems lacking in a lot of areas.
 
I've always used the method of,

Starting the hone in the cylinder, then get after it up and down, then on the last pump pull out the cylinder, drill still spinning.

Stroke it up and down pretty quick.

And has worked 100%.for me, good cross hatch, and good ring seal.
 
Sounds good, rod bearings are all pretty uniform on wear. No scores I can feel on bearings or crank. Run these too?
 

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Just check crank endplay before you do anything.

Then I'd pop the maincap off and check that bearing.

If it looks good, the rest are fine.
 
Just check crank endplay before you do anything.

Then I'd pop the maincap off and check that bearing.

If it looks good, the rest are fine.

OK sounds good. Any idea what crank endplay spec is? It's not in the dodge manual and haven't came across a Cummins service manual yet
 
That 2nd bearing is the top side, takes all the load.

Noted. Can’t imagine what mine look like at 350k haha

Lots of people pop new ones in and roll out though so I guess as long as there is no crank marks you’re solid.
 
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I wouldn't run the drill speed too fast, you'll be jerking your arm back and forth like a rabbit to get a 45°
 
I wouldn't run the drill speed too fast, you'll be jerking your arm back and forth like a rabbit to get a 45°

I've been single for 5 years,rabbit ain't got shit on me. Just kidding but what grit hone do you guys think I should go with? I'm seeing 240/180/120
 
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