You got me wanting to try and do a relative compression test with an ammeter now. Would need a way to indicate cylinder though. Might be a cool kit to build.
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??? My first time was in a Detroit engine. The trick is plotting crank angle on a non electronic engine. Might not be too bad with a photo-optic pickup, get each cylinder to tdc and place a reflector on the damper for each cylinder blah blah.
Might not even need that.
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I think you're on it, I was just trying to home brew instead of using a scan tool, although mapping on a tool would be better.Tried to edit previous post to more thoroughly explain my thoughts, but passed the 30 minute peasant status edit window...
I was kinda thinking something along the lines of a hall effect or magnetic sensor to indicate #1 TDC and monitor it on another scope channel overlaid on the amp probe trace. Could probably run this off of the factory cam sensor. This should narrow a problem down to being within one or both of the companion cylinders?
With a 12 valve I guess youd need to attach a high spot to the OD of the crank damper with the leading edge set at #1 TDC in relation to the sensor? In that scenario a sensor mounted to something like a indicator mag base and stick that on the oil pan oughta work? Just need to disregard the #1 exhaust stroke reading. How far off am I???? lol
I think you're on it, I was just trying to home brew instead of using a scan tool, although mapping on a tool would be better.
A photo-tach would work.
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It would still have to have an amp clamp with an output I would think.Gotcha.
How would one go about analyzing the starter amp draw in a home brew sorta scenario?
My ears tell me when there's a dead hole.
Even if it's between someone else's ears. LOL
Mark.
dingle ball the hole,
Drop the pan, pull the head, remove rod and piston, wrap crank in wraps, dingle ball the hole, new rings, rotate engine a few times to check work, assemble remaining parts. Drive it.
Dingle ballz, dingle ballz, dingle all the waaaaay
I said what I said...... (Via text)
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