madmikeismad's new build thread/HD Fab Truck

VMAX said:
Nice rig you got going.....

Man I doubled your 10 hours in just smoothing my current head with intake cut off. All though it was my second one to ever do.
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After this summer its getting new intake, and a professional port/valve job.

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mathews8pt said:
Dang, I bet I had close to 10hours in my head total. Exhaust side and in the bowls of intake/ exhaust. No idea how my port job compares to a professional job though.
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i had at least that into mine.

mike a round nose or tapered carbide works well for blending the bowls and guides.
 
jlbayes said:
i had at least that into mine.

mike a round nose or tapered carbide works well for blending the bowls and guides.
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I just don't want to risk the bit slipping and nicking something and end up with a leak. I'll leave that stuff to the pro's. I do have a bur thats a ball shape, and one thats like a pine cone.

For you guys to have so much time into yours, I think you may have taken out a lot more material than I did. Now I want to go back and do it again LOL
 
I really want to remove more material, I'm just very afraid of making the walls too thin, or hitting water. I've looked at others pictures, but not having it to scale or side by side makes it hard to judge.
 
I've looked at that a few times, but I still have trouble seeing how thick the wall is where the head bolt goes past the exhaust port. That spot where it changes direction of flow is the spot I'm trying to remove the most from.
 
I have a head with the runner cut off sitting in my shop, went nuts porting the intake side, was finishing up the runners and ground through the #1 push rod hole, 2,3,4,5 and 6 have plenty of meat left.... chalked it up as a casting shift and lost all motivation.

moral of the story... dont expect every piece of wall to be the same thickness! leave some wiggle room
 
If you use a aluminum carbide bit on a slower speed it works a lot faster than a steel type on cast iron. Leaves a smoother finish also.
 
ahale2772 said:
I have a head with the runner cut off sitting in my shop, went nuts porting the intake side, was finishing up the runners and ground through the #1 push rod hole, 2,3,4,5 and 6 have plenty of meat left.... chalked it up as a casting shift and lost all motivation.

moral of the story... dont expect every piece of wall to be the same thickness! leave some wiggle room
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I didn't even think of that, now I'm really glad I didn't push it further.

jasonc said:
If you use a aluminum carbide bit on a slower speed it works a lot faster than a steel type on cast iron. Leaves a smoother finish also.
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I've never even seen an aluminum carbide burr. if I had I would have assumed the aluminum to soft.

ahale2772 said:
^less "dust" from the cast too
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I did mind that so much, that's easy enough to clean


oldestof11 said:
I like this...
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Thanks

I got the head put back together and on the motor. Torqued to 130. next Saturday I'm going to recheck them at 130.

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and I managed bit of destruction

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next weekend I'm going to finish putting everything together and paint it with a light coat to help find oil leaks in the future.


IMPORTANT: does anyone know what to torque the rocker bolts to? over 25 and they were starting to stretch on me. my service manual is for VP truck so it only tells me to go to 23.

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madmikeismad said:
I've never even seen an aluminum carbide burr. if I had I would have assumed the aluminum to soft.
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The bur itself is still carbide the difference is the distance between the cutting teeth/edges are far expanded to avoid clogging up due to aluminum coming off much faster than iron when grinding. I've never tried to use an carbide designed for aluminum on iron sounds like it would be a handful but my machinist skills are limited.

I've not read this thread but I would assume this is for a twelve valve and you are talking about the bolt through the strap which does not serve as a head bolt. If that is the case for some reason 10 ft-lbs sticks out in my mind but I would double check that. I just snug them down by hand to what I feel comfortable with.
 
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NickTF said:
The bur itself is still carbide the difference is the distance between the cutting teeth/edges are far expanded to avoid clogging up due to aluminum coming off much faster than iron when grinding. I've never tried to use an carbide designed for aluminum on iron sounds like it would be a handful but my machinist skills are limited.

I've not read this thread but I would assume this is for a twelve valve and you are talking about the bolt through the strap which does not serve as a head bolt. If that is the case for some reason 10 ft-lbs sticks out in my mind but I would double check that. I just snug them down by hand to what I feel comfortable with.
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I meant I would have assumed the bur was made of aluminum carbide, not made for cutting aluminum. The burs I have now cut FAST, I don't know if I'd want to cut any faster for fear of not keeping a fairly smooth surface.

This is the style I used, but it was egg shaped

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madmikeismad said:
I just don't want to risk the bit slipping and nicking something and end up with a leak. I'll leave that stuff to the pro's. I do have a bur thats a ball shape, and one thats like a pine cone.

For you guys to have so much time into yours, I think you may have taken out a lot more material than I did. Now I want to go back and do it again LOL
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i understand being scared believe me! LOL i had to make sure not to nick any of the seats when i did mine. the head had already been surfaced and the seats were in good shape. most of my time was spent cleaning up the exhaust bowls. just take your time and be patient with the next one. good heads to practice on are small block chevy iron heads. there is a million of them out there and you can get a feel for what you need to do and not worry about ruining a head!
 
Next time, I'm having a pro do it LOL

This time was just to get me through the summer, and make 700hp a little easier.
 
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