My bypass kit.....version 1.0

[impmouse]

hers some pics of mine

 

[zuki_dan]

I have run a valve very similar to that after I popped my first headgasket after getting the head o-ringed. I was running it from the EEP plate in the rear freeze plug hole. I installed my plate from the front when the head was off. The valve seemed to work alright but make sure you keep the cap tight. My buddy lost the cap on the drive home and it drained his whole cooling system, no damage done though he caught it before it overheated.
I have since switched to opie's kit just for the volume of flow available from the valve. I also the relief point to the plug between 5&6 because that will also reomve the hottest coolant from the engine.

 

[HRDROKN]

*edit* 06 beat me to it

it also helps circulate the coolant from the hottest part of the motor (between #5 & #6) back to the front of the coolant system

So this could be of benefit on the street as well?

:bow:

 

[not enoughsmoke]

Unbroken ur on the right path I cheaped out as well two other things to point out on the bypass kit is if u notice opies kit uses 5/8 hose I was not sure 1/2 was going to be enough flow that's why I plumbed two 1/2 lines one in the head and one the block another thing is when u fire ring a cummins common rail u use a 24valve headgasket punched out for fire ring also noticed the coolant pressure is etchin out the gasket under high coolant pressures that's another good reason for the bypass did u see how mine was plumbed in the other thread

 

[UNBROKEN]

I looked at your pics.....I never really thought about the hose size to tell you the truth..I got sidetracked with the 1/2" becasue of the 1/2NPT fittings.....just had 1/2" on the brain. LOL
I can easily get bigger push lok fittings and bigger hose....thanks for the input.

 

[rpainter]

would there be any benefit to move the heater hose outlet from the head back one spot the the rear most plug? that would circulate the water also wouldn't it?

 

[not enoughsmoke]

If U Look At The Fittin In The Head It Has A Small Hole So Ur Heater Core Dont Blow Up Due To The Pressure And The Watts Valves In A 50 Psi Are All 1/2 I Believe U Would Still Decrease Flow If U Increase The Hose But Not The Valve

 

[UNBROKEN]

There's a difference in true 1/2" hose and a 1/2" NPT port.
Reference my pics o page 1.
The threaded fittings are 1/2" NPT. The push lok fittings are true 1/2" hose.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Pics for reference and to show the difference between 1/2" and 1/2" NPT

1/2" hose...obviously 1/2"

ID of 1/2" push lok fitting....about 3/8" actuall

ID of 1/2" NPT fitting....about 5/8" actuall

Comparison...1/2" NPT on left....regular 1/2" fitting on right

I'm glad this was brought up....because I honestly just didn't think about it. I guess that's what happens when you get in a hurry to gather up parts.

I'll be getting new hose and fittings now....version 2.0 coming up tomorrow. LOL

 

[StainlessRRA]

Good, after wasting the cash on twins I really didn't want to spring for the bypass. I'm glad so many other cheapskates have gone before me.... LOL

 

[rpainter]

Pics for reference and to show the difference between 1/2" and 1/2" NPT

1/2" hose...obviously 1/2"

ID of 1/2" push lok fitting....about 3/8" actuall

ID of 1/2" NPT fitting....about 5/8" actuall

Comparison...1/2" NPT on left....regular 1/2" fitting on right

I'm glad this was brought up....because I honestly just didn't think about it. I guess that's what happens when you get in a hurry to gather up parts.

I'll be getting new hose and fittings now....version 2.0 coming up tomorrow. LOL

what size are you going with 5/8 or 3/4?

 

[UNBROKEN]

I'll decide that after some fitting measuring at the hose place....I'll have to leave work early one day this week to get there before they close.
If i can get a 1/2NPT male to 3/4" push lok...that'll probably be what I do to keep all the ID's as large as possible.

 

[not enoughsmoke]

Well ur only human if u don't make mistakes u won't learn from them better to do a little homework than go somewhere far off and it break and wishin u had already done it I have been runnin my bypass kit for about a month and I dynoed about 3 weeks ago and made 793 hp and still no problems guess the bypass is workin

 

[UNBROKEN]

Yep....just got in a hurry and brainfarted. I've plumbed enough crap on these tucks to know better.....except for yesterday. LOL

 

[morkable]

I really like this idea, the only thing that concerns me about this is the pressure of the valve, I am thinking that 50psi is allmost too late. considering that the rad cap is somewheres between 8 and 14 psi. I know that it is higher there, but that is alot of difference.... Im not an expert, but it concerns me..

Kevin

 

[cumminsX]

my question is.... does the watts valve flow enough to justify the larger hose diameter? I know that flow is part of it but I would think that any relief would help, as long as the valve comes open first then the plugs should hold right?

 

[not enoughsmoke]

That's part of the reason why I plumbed mine into the stainless arch to keep from deadheadin that pressue into a radiator tank which is plastic I have not had any problems with mine and its a daily driver if u set it at a lower pressure it will open sooner and cause heatin problems. To much and pop u blew it the pressure in the head can get up to 80psi. So when u boost 80 90 or even 100psi remember gases are compressable fluids are not that's why I believe when u blow a head gasket its cause of the coolant pressure

 

[CTD03]

joining....ttt

 

[not enoughsmoke]

I have even looked into a electric water pump if u notice ur bigg tractor pull tractors. Run electric water pumps and they are set at a certain rpm for maxium coolant flow that's why after a hard run down the track my truck would idle at like 1400rpms to cool down. But I don't like how some electrical components tend to fail I just made the bypass kit instead and used some mechanial componets

 

[UNBROKEN]

Functionality wise...there's no difference in dumping the pressure into the top adiator hose or the radiator itself. That pressure all winds up in the radiator anyway via the top radiator hose....not like it can go backwards through the t-stat.