unbroken... do you have a parts list yet... i seem to not be able to find a parts list... thanks...i had one set up.. but it was out of 1/2 inch water heater pipe... it seem that i could put in the t-stat housing on the side. but it would run through the hole of engine pulling braket. that was the flattest part of the t-stat. housing...but if i had to pull the motor. i could unhook it..
What about that Evan's coolant? It's 1/2 the price of the by-pass kits, Still pricing to flush your system out for this stuff at $260. however, it runs at 0psi.
Basically all you need is:
a plug block if you have a 12vavle or don't have a plug in the head to remove.
a radiator hose adapter
Fittings: 3/8" and 1/2"
hose
And of course the valve 530C I think the 5300A would work better but it seems to be harder to find online and costs more, but it is adjustable to below 50psi.
The thermostat is the problem. But its what controls the flow and allows the engine to build heat in the coolant. You still need the thermostat but you wouldn't need a radiator pressure cap.
you'd still use a thermostat, just that the coolant has zero water, there for no real "pressure". just flow.
Where did you get the Go-Go Gadget arm to get that picture? LOL Nice shot.
I did the rear freeze plug and a fittin in the head but also found out opies kit open at 25psi I am gonna drop my reliefs back to about that psi range
you put an oring or sumthing on the plate to block piece?
Somebody is lieing to you that is not what my bypasses open at. The two most important things about the bypass it the pressure setting and how much it can flow.