My bypass kit.....version 1.0

1985cucv said:
not enough did you just drill and tap your housing do you have pictures of it? thanks a lot
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heres the pics i had weld-alets welded to my ppe neck then driled the holes
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how about the guys that have drilled into the thermostat housing any problems and pics would be sweet!
 
If you dont want to drill them.
 

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did you guys drill it right next to Where the hose connects to the housing? thanks
 
I had just 2 holes drilled in the t-stat...actually just enlarged the bypass holes and removed the plugs and my truck wouldn't get up to 170-180 degrees. I always felt like it was costing me power...might have been in my head but it feels better at full operating temp.
 
im just gonna drill and tap one hole in the t stat and run 1/2 inch line from the t stat to number 6 plug in the back. unbroken did you have any issues with the 1/2 inch brass nipple on there? thanks and how long was it?
 
on a 12v head, if i popped out that 1/2" pipe plug (between #4 n #5) out under the casted boss for the 1st gen fuel filters, put in a 90, to 1/2" hose to valve, to upper rad hose (T'd right infront of the p7100)

would this not be exactly the same ? or do i HAVE to pop the freeze plug in the back and install that haisley bracket ?


also, on the front of the head there is that tiny 1/4" hose from one side of the t-stat to another.... isn't that relieveing pressure to sum extent ? or does this pressure only build up back by #6?
 
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if flow is a concern, could you just run a 3/4 watts valve? grainger sells them for $26 and some change.
 
i was thinking of using the 3/4 valve along with the rear plate from haisley. im guessing the haisley plate is tapped to 1/2 npt. i was thinking of enlarging it to 3/4 npt if there is enough material there to do so
 
Timbeaux38 said:
Remember Cam, we are at Comp D LOL ....... This is not the place where folks generally come to buy ready-made kits(for many applications) that have been tested. Steve's kit is a proven kit that performs as advertised. Can it be done cheaper? Yep, but nobody else has one you can buy off the shelf that comes close.
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Actually, our BOE kit has been available - and in service - for the last 4 years... pretty sure the twin 3/4" diameter short circuits between the high & low pressure sides of the cooling system will flow as much or more than anything else on the market.

Of course, Cummins has had a small bypass kit available longer than I can remember.

JasonCzerak said:
What about that Evan's coolant? It's 1/2 the price of the by-pass kits, Still pricing to flush your system out for this stuff at $260. however, it runs at 0psi.
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The pump will still pressurize the water jacket enough to contribute to freeze plug ejection.

White Knight said:
The thermostat is the problem. But its what controls the flow and allows the engine to build heat in the coolant. You still need the thermostat but you wouldn't need a radiator pressure cap.
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There are insignificant differences in the water pump's pressure curve (from idle to rated RPM) between thermostat open/closed, engine hot/cold... 3500 RPM exerts over 200 lbs. of force on each large block plug - "soft" plugs in the head are 90-ish IIRC.

UNBROKEN said:
I had just 2 holes drilled in the t-stat...actually just enlarged the bypass holes and removed the plugs and my truck wouldn't get up to 170-180 degrees. I always felt like it was costing me power...might have been in my head but it feels better at full operating temp.
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That does cost power - cooler cylinder & head temps absorb more heat energy during the compression stroke & combustion... leaving less available to push pistons. :Cheer:
 
I hate to say, it probably easier to run an electric coolant pump, or an electric motor to turn the pump.

Couldn't you run different pulley as the pump is driven off the accessory belt drive?
 
could i use one of the plates that is already taped off the back of the block? would it work that way too or does it have to come out the head?
 
Could i run the Watts 530C off the coolant temp sensor 3/4" port on the back of the 12v block?

I can't run a rear freeze block bypass because my ford trans plate blocks it.
 
Twright said:
Could i run the Watts 530C off the coolant temp sensor 3/4" port on the back of the 12v block?

I can't run a rear freeze block bypass because my ford trans plate blocks it.
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Yes you can just modify it like this:
IMAG0464-1.jpg
 
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