Narrowing a Rockwell

bigstacks95 said:
So no bearing cap supports and only 20 lbs lighter than a stock housing with stock spindles and stock rear cover.....?
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I think it actually weighs less than that, but have not weighed it myself yet.

I will weigh it this weekend and when it's all done complete. I don't think the bearing cap support's are that big of an issue unless your running a aluminum center section.
 
ComnRailPwr said:
The fab housings are a big waste IMO, but too each their own.
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Not sure what you guys mean by a "Big waste". But if you mean money, it's not much more than a stock housing done up.

I payed $1,580 SQHD housing kit.

- stock housing $500.
- F106 spindles $500.
- aluminum rear cover $300.
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= $1,300
 
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IMO the aluminum cover and 106 spindles are a waste of money too. The dollar per pound Factor doesn't add up when you start modding these are rear ends. They will hold up to limited Pro Stock power in stock form just shortened using two short side axles. Like a few others in this thread I'll be using all OEM Parts besides the ring and pinion. It won't weigh much more than a decked-out fabricated housing and will have under $1,500 total investment. With that said I understand some people don't have the tools or capable of doing what we are doing but the option is there.
 
ComnRailPwr said:
IMO the aluminum cover and 106 spindles are a waste of money too. The dollar per pound Factor doesn't add up when you start modding these are rear ends. They will hold up to limited Pro Stock power in stock form just shortened using two short side axles. Like a few others in this thread I'll be using all OEM Parts besides the ring and pinion. It won't weigh much more than a decked-out fabricated housing and will have under $1,500 total investment. With that said I understand some people don't have the tools or capable of doing what we are doing but the option is there.
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I have the tools and am capable of reworking the stock housing, but chose not to. And also chose the SQHD over a 20-145 because the SQHD center section is also lighter than a 20-145.
 
Everything together in the picture weighs 116lbs, I will probably cut 12" off each tube. So that would put it right around 100lbs bare housing with f106 spindles and bracing they provided.

IMG_0921.jpg
 
News flash for everyone complaining about sheet metal rear ends being a waiste of money. Pulling trucks are a waiste of money. So it makes perfect sense to get a fabbed rear end.
 
ComnRailPwr said:
IMO the aluminum cover and 106 spindles are a waste of money too. The dollar per pound Factor doesn't add up when you start modding these are rear ends. They will hold up to limited Pro Stock power in stock form just shortened using two short side axles. Like a few others in this thread I'll be using all OEM Parts besides the ring and pinion. It won't weigh much more than a decked-out fabricated housing and will have under $1,500 total investment. With that said I understand some people don't have the tools or capable of doing what we are doing but the option is there.
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The 106 spindles give you the ability to run any custom hub you prefer, not only giving you a lot more options but aluminum 8 or 6 bolt hubs weigh a lot less than those bulky factory hubs. And also I've seen factory bolts shear off on the axle flange, I've seen guys break stock axle shafts, and how do you figure it's harder to shorten a factory housing than to build and fully assemble a sheet metal rear?
 
duramaxzak said:
Everything together in the picture weighs 116lbs, I will probably cut 12" off each tube. So that would put it right around 100lbs bare housing with f106 spindles and bracing they provided.

View attachment 65774
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Looks good, but a word of advice. Test fit your 3rd member before you weld it under the truck, we've had a few of those centers we've had to trim the internal bracing to clear the carrier caps.
 
SledPuller21 said:
Looks good, but a word of advice. Test fit your 3rd member before you weld it under the truck, we've had a few of those centers we've had to trim the internal bracing to clear the carrier caps.
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And be prepared to cuss a lot as everything moves as you weld on it
 
SledPuller21 said:
The 106 spindles give you the ability to run any custom hub you prefer, not only giving you a lot more options but aluminum 8 or 6 bolt hubs weigh a lot less than those bulky factory hubs. And also I've seen factory bolts shear off on the axle flange, I've seen guys break stock axle shafts, and how do you figure it's harder to shorten a factory housing than to build and fully assemble a sheet metal rear?
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Do you think that 3.0 LSS Trucks make enough power/have enough bite with DOT's to shear off a stock 41 spline axle?

Also, The factory hubs weigh aprox. 20 lbs after you pound the factory lug nuts out of them. The lugs themselves probably weigh 10 lbs, haha.

That being said there is no "easy" way to attach a wheel to the factory hubs. One way or another you are making something, adapting things, and screwing around for at least a day with a mill and lathe. If I had an extra couple grand kicking around I wanted to put into the rear, I'd defiantly go with the 106 spindles.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Do you think that 3.0 LSS Trucks make enough power/have enough bite with DOT's to shear off a stock 41 spline axle?

Also, The factory hubs weigh aprox. 20 lbs after you pound the factory lug nuts out of them. The lugs themselves probably weigh 10 lbs, haha.

That being said there is no "easy" way to attach a wheel to the factory hubs. One way or another you are making something, adapting things, and screwing around for at least a day with a mill and lathe. If I had an extra couple grand kicking around I wanted to put into the rear, I'd defiantly go with the 106 spindles.
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1400hp with a hard bounce, maybe. I would recommend changing the stock axle bolts also, seen them shear off.
 
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