Software beta testers needed for 'Anteater'

YOUNG GUNS15 said:
To change tunes, currently we have our tow/haul button changing tunes with the PCS/ATS
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Brandon answered your question. Solder the momentary connections to the board, the stalk switch now acts in parallel to the momentary on the remote itself.

Hold the momentary long enough for the remote to react, tune change.

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thatguy69 said:
So the twin pins on the board we can sauter too will work with a momentary switch? Say I want to use a momentary switch to lock the converter. I push the switch the board latches the input and the converter will stay locked until I reach my unlock setpoint or until I hit the monetary switch again to unlatch it?

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Only use momentary switches, DO NOT use latching switches.

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Do I need to tap the number 2 pin on my apps if I have a Vp44? Not sure if it's the same as the cr trucks or not

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thatguy69 said:
Do I need to tap the number 2 pin on my apps if I have a Vp44? Not sure if it's the same as the cr trucks or not

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edit: nevermind i found it, for anybody else that wants to know for a vp44 truck its pin #6,the light blue wire with black tracer.

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I'm getting excited for the ant eater to show up for the 05 12 valve. Ordered one about a week and a half ago!
 
Any findings on the issue with the remote causing the trans to shuttle shift or not shift properly? And not being able to change tunes until the truck is powered off and then on?

I currently just ride around with the remote unplugged so it just J uses tune 1 all the time. I don't have any issues with it like that

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waparson said:
Any findings on the issue with the remote causing the trans to shuttle shift or not shift properly? And not being able to change tunes until the truck is powered off and then on?

I currently just ride around with the remote unplugged so it just J uses tune 1 all the time. I don't have any issues with it like that

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Have you talked with Rick @ Firepunk? It sounds like a failed connection at the remote.
 
What would cause it to shift 1-3? Watching the controller you can see it command 1-2 but it hits 3rd, when it hits 3rd you can pull it down into 2nd manually though. Also had an issue under full throttle and it wouldn't shift out of first even at 5700rpm (50+ mph) shift was at 33mph (normally hits around 4800-4900rpm on the shift under power). I'm assuming the TV lever is to high but would like to confirm before messing with it.
 
PhillipF said:
What would cause it to shift 1-3? Watching the controller you can see it command 1-2 but it hits 3rd, when it hits 3rd you can pull it down into 2nd manually though. Also had an issue under full throttle and it wouldn't shift out of first even at 5700rpm (50+ mph) shift was at 33mph (normally hits around 4800-4900rpm on the shift under power). I'm assuming the TV lever is to high but would like to confirm before messing with it.
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The first issue would be gov psi modifier set to high for your current TV lever position. The second issue is with the TV lever set too tight.
 
Thanks, Would it still make sense if I said that both of those issues are on the same tv position and same gov psi just different mph tune and less power applied. I believe my gov psi is at 50 right now and tv is around 80%, I'll try backing down the gov psi first and see what happens then throw some power at it and see if it comes out of first.
All the tunes are flat lines at the mph's and tv is constant.
 
Looks like when the software commands the 1-2 shift the actual gov psi reading from the port is goes from 0-120psi making it shift 1-3. I'm having trouble getting the software to connect to see what the feedback psi is but I'm guessing I'm having an issue with either the output speed sensor making it think it's going faster than it is or the transducer reading the wrong pressure.
 
Double check your tire size and all that is correct too. One time mine was shifting funky and it was because when I was changing things I mistakenly​ changed that.

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joefarmer said:
Have you talked with Rick @ Firepunk? It sounds like a failed connection at the remote.
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I got with Paul when he was still there a while back. Swapped harness, module, and remote out twice.

Figured I'd wait to see if there was a hardware/firmware update later on.
 
PhillipF said:
Looks like when the software commands the 1-2 shift the actual gov psi reading from the port is goes from 0-120psi making it shift 1-3. I'm having trouble getting the software to connect to see what the feedback psi is but I'm guessing I'm having an issue with either the output speed sensor making it think it's going faster than it is or the transducer reading the wrong pressure.
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Make sure that you're using the late, square pressure transducer and not the older metal round one. It normally that causes limp mode with the wrong transducer, but occasionally it will just skip shift 1-3.
 
waparson said:
I got with Paul when he was still there a while back. Swapped harness, module, and remote out twice.

Figured I'd wait to see if there was a hardware/firmware update later on.
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That's odd that two in a row acted the same way. How is the power and ground wired?
 
1.My truck has no PCM so I don't have 5 volts anywhere for my 0-5 volt tps supply power. Do you think a USB car charger would have enough current to go through the TPS to the Anteater?

Also I think a 5 volt output would be a nice upgrade.
 
It has to be requested. Mine was built with 5V output as a Beta version

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I wasn't aware I could request it with a output. I wonder if it's there and I can just add a wire.
 
It's there. The Orange wire on the 18-pin plug is 5v. You may use tap and use it for the TPS 5v supply. Ground for the TPS can come from the black wire in the same harness.
 
Sorry if I've overlooked it, but will the anteater work with the gm upgraded electronics?
 
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