Thanks for your feedback folks!
Let me try to give you a few tuning tips with the SSR and in general.
Duration, as a rule of thumb, every time it smokes you're loosing power and / or the ability to spool. Example, in Florida there were a couple trucks that could not light the turbo. They were smoking real bad when trying to spool the turbo. In my opinion they had way too much injector ( flow ) for the turbo they had. I had them set the LL duration to 07 ( which is way less than stock duration ) voilà, the turbo spooled.
Then they did a few tests and HL duration was more or less right at 20-22.
At 15 the truck would fall on it's face during shifts. At 30 the turbo would just die during the shifts.
I'm telling you this to help you understand that any SW can do only so much.
The hard parts ( ie.turbo(s) VS injectors ) need to be matched as close as posisble in order for the system as a whole to perform. The SW can help somehow to patch things together but real performance is a diffent thing. In fact, that truck made it actually into the final 16 but it would not have been able to compete for 1st. Now give this truck a smaller set of tips &WATCH OUT !
As a rule of thumb, if you need real low LL duration in order to keep the smoke down and need a much higher HLD then to make power, you better re-think the setup you're running. Like in the example above LLD = 7 and HLD = 22 makes for a very spiky driving experience.... Then closer the HLD and LLD #'s become then better!
Everything in the low load range can really be done testing on the road. Watch for smoke, listen to the engine that's all that's to it.
Low Load Duration is about smoke on the road ( again you want as little as possible ) and spool up for the track. Too much fuel will not spool the turbo.
Not enough fuel will do the same. Find the happy medium.!
Low Load Timing is about responsiveness ( and eventually noise ). Not enough timing makes for sluggish throttle response. Too much timing hinders the performance. At low load it is very unlikely to do any harm to the engine overadvancing the timing. High load is a different story!
Low Load RP is... well since I FEAR RP for the damage that can be done with it default is set to stock. Remember, if you increase the RP you will increase the fuel flow. That means in turn that with more RP you will likely need less duration.
All High Load settings need dyno time to be set right!
Start with the HL duration.
Start from let's say 20 and do a baseline run.
Now increase to 30. Let's say you have gained power and have broadened the power band. ( compared to the run with 20 )
Now increase to 40. Let's say no power was gained but EGT's went up.
That means too much duration!
Now go to 35 and do a run. Some power has been gained compared to the run with 30 and the EGT's are better than with 40. GOOD! Refine to a little bit higher or lower #'s at will.
Now dial in the RP.
Proceed with the same steps as for the HLD. Eventually try to reduce the duration a bit once you've found the happy medium for the RP.
Last but not least, the high load timing.
The timing is MOST CRITICAL for the performance AND engine survival!!!!
Over advance the timing too much and the motor is going to suffer in no time! Not enough timing will kill the performance. Or in other words, if you really want to perform YOU NEED THE TIMING SET RIGHT!
The proceeding is the same as with the HL duration.
Start at 20 go up to 30 go up to 40...
Only thing being, the timing on the dyno is most likely too much for the road / track. That's due to the dyno not fully loading the enigne. In other words,
back out of the timing that is right on the dyno 2-4 numbers. IE from let's say 38 go down to 34.
In all you should not need more than 10-15 dyno runs to dial in things to perfection.
Helps some?
Marco
PS on edit. To give you an idea about the timing. On a STOCK truck the right timing can gain close to 90 Hp. On big dogs I've seen differences in the 200 HP range just dialing in the timing.
